A Solo Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Homeward Bound, But Forever Changed

As my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound experiences of the past fifteen days. This journey has been more than just a trek through picturesque landscapes; it has been a deep dive into the heart of Japanese spirituality and culture, leaving an indelible mark on my soul. Today was about absorbing the last moments, the final lessons, and the lingering peace of this sacred path.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The cozy atmosphere and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee were the perfect start. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying meal, fueling up for a day of exploration and reflection. I took my time, savoring each bite and appreciating the warmth of the cafe. Haru, the resident dog, greeted me with a wagging tail, a sweet reminder of the simple joys found along this path. It's these small, genuine moments that I'll carry with me long after I've left Japan. The owner, a gracious and kind woman, offered insights into local culture and geography, enriching my experience.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Following breakfast, I made my way to the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center. I wanted to delve deeper into the history and significance of the Kumano Kodo. The center is well-organized, with exhibits in both North and South Halls that provide a comprehensive overview of the pilgrimage routes, surrounding nature, and cultural heritage. I spent hours absorbing the information, tracing the paths of ancient pilgrims and learning about the traditions that have shaped this region for over a thousand years. The center also highlighted the connection to other pilgrimage routes around the world, such as the Way of Saint James, reminding me of the universal human quest for spiritual meaning.


Immerse yourself in the cultural heritage of the Kumano region at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, a gateway to the ancient pilgrimage routes.

Pilgrimages are not merely physical journeys, but transformative odysseys that reshape our perspectives and deepen our understanding of ourselves and the world.

After immersing myself in the historical context of the Kumano Kodo, I decided to visit Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. I wanted to find a few mementos to bring home, tangible reminders of this incredible journey. The station offered a variety of local products, from crafts to regional delicacies. I picked up some Otonashi-cha tea, grown in the surrounding hills, and a small, hand-carved Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow that symbolizes guidance and divine intervention in Shinto mythology. I also found a beautiful Minachi-gasa headpiece made of cypress, crafted by the last artisan who still makes them.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

For lunch, I ventured to Hinoki Steak House, craving something different after many days of traditional Japanese cuisine. I had read mixed reviews, but I was curious to try their Kumano beef hamburger. The restaurant had a nostalgic atmosphere. While the hamburger was indeed very expensive, it was juicy and flavorful, providing a satisfying midday meal. It was a nice change of pace to enjoy a meal that wasn't strictly Japanese, a reminder of the global influences that even a place as steeped in tradition as Kumano Kodo experiences.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As the day progressed, I visited Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, the spiritual heart of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. The shrine exudes a sense of serenity and reverence. I took my time wandering through the grounds, admiring the traditional architecture and reflecting on the countless pilgrims who have come here seeking solace and enlightenment. The air was filled with the scent of incense, and the gentle rustling of leaves created a peaceful ambiance. I offered a prayer for continued strength and guidance on my life's path. The experience was deeply moving, a fitting conclusion to my pilgrimage.

In the evening, I treated myself to a farewell dinner at Akihei. This restaurant offered a traditional Japanese dining experience. I savored each dish, appreciating the artistry and flavors of the local cuisine. It was a perfect way to celebrate the end of my journey, a moment of quiet reflection on all that I had seen and learned. I was also glad that the restaurant offered catering and bento services.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

As I prepare to leave Kumano Kodo, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and accomplishment. This pilgrimage has challenged me physically, mentally, and spiritually. It has taught me the importance of slowing down, appreciating the present moment, and connecting with something larger than myself. I've learned a lot about Japanese culture and history, and I've gained a deeper understanding of my own beliefs and values.

This journey wouldn't have been the same without the opportunity to learn about the Kumano Kodo Guides, a friendly group of local guides dedicated to the region and introducing the UNESCO World Heritage Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route to international visitors. They truly enjoy walking and sharing stories with guests.


Experience the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes with expert guides and immerse yourself in Japan's rich culture and breathtaking landscapes.

I will carry the lessons of the Kumano Kodo with me always. The peace, the beauty, and the spirit of this sacred path will continue to inspire me long after I return home to Edmonton. Although my time here is ending, the memories and the personal growth I've experienced will stay with me forever. This solo journey has been a reminder of my own strength and resilience, and I am grateful for the opportunity to have walked in the footsteps of pilgrims past.

Perhaps one day, Fatima, Nelson, and Sheila can return with me, and we can all experience the beauty and spiritual significance of Kumano Kodo together. Until then, I will share my stories and encourage others to embark on their own transformative journeys.

Tomorrow, I begin my journey back to Canada, carrying with me not just souvenirs, but a renewed sense of purpose and a deeper connection to the world around me. The Kumano Kodo has been more than just a trip; it has been a pilgrimage of the heart, and I am eternally grateful for the experience.