Exploring the Cultural and Culinary Delights of Parma, Italy

Whispers of the Past, Echoes of Laughter

Today was a journey through time and imagination, a day where the stoic stones of ancient castles whispered tales of love and war, and the playful rustling of bamboo in a vast labyrinth echoed with laughter and the joy of discovery. Parma has a way of captivating the soul, and today, it certainly captured mine.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante Angiol d'Or. The name, meaning 'Golden Angel' in the local dialect, seemed fitting as we prepared to embark on our adventures. I enjoyed a strong coffee and some local pastries, fueling up for a day of exploration. Elke opted for a lighter breakfast, eager to save room for the culinary delights that Parma is so famous for.


Discover authentic Italian flavors at Ristorante Angiol d'Or in Parma - a culinary journey through Italy's finest dishes awaits.

First on our itinerary was the Castello di Torrechiara. As we drove towards Langhirano, the landscape transformed into rolling hills adorned with vineyards, a picturesque prelude to the castle that awaited us. The castle itself sits atop a terraced hill, strategically overlooking the Parma River valley. It felt like stepping back in time as we approached its imposing structure, with its four rectangular towers and double lines of merloned walls. Built in the 15th century by Pier Maria II de' Rossi, Castello di Torrechiara served both as a defensive fortification and a noble residence for his beloved mistress, Bianca Pellegrini d'Arluno. The story of their love is etched into the very stones of the castle, most notably in the Camera d'Oro, or Golden Chamber. This room, adorned with frescoes by Benedetto Bembo, depicts scenes of their love and chivalry. As a restorer of antique furniture, I was particularly drawn to the intricate details of the frescoes, the way the light played across the colors, and the stories they told. Elke, with her librarian's eye for detail, was fascinated by the historical context, the blend of medieval and Renaissance elements that made the castle so unique. We explored the inner court, known as the Cortile d'onore, and climbed the various towers, each offering a different perspective of the surrounding landscape. The Torre di San Nicomede, the Torre del Giglio, the Torre della Camera d'Oro, and the Torre del Leone – each held its own charm and history. I could imagine Pier Maria standing on these very walls, surveying his lands, his heart filled with love and perhaps a touch of worry in those turbulent times. The castle has served as a location for films, such as Ladyhawke, a testament to its timeless appeal.


Experience the rich history and stunning landscapes at Castello di Torrechiara, a medieval castle gem in Parma's picturesque hills.

The best love is the kind that awakens the soul; that makes us reach for more, that plants the fire in our hearts and brings peace to our minds.

Leaving Castello di Torrechiara, we drove towards Fontanellato, our next destination: the Labirinto della Masone. This wasn't just any maze; it was the largest bamboo labyrinth in the world, a sprawling creation of Franco Maria Ricci, a publisher, designer, and art collector. Ricci created this labyrinth as a promise to his friend, the Argentinian writer Jorge Luis Borges, who was fascinated by mazes and their symbolism. As we entered the Labirinto della Masone, we were immediately enveloped by the lush greenery of over 200,000 bamboo plants. The maze spans 7 hectares, with pathways stretching over 3 kilometers. It was an enchanting experience, a true collaboration of minds, with architects PierCarlo Bontempi and Davide Dutto helping bring Ricci's vision to life. The design drew inspiration from Borges' passion, architectural utopias, and Roman mosaics. Elke and I spent a delightful hour or so getting lost in the maze, laughing as we took wrong turns and dead ends. The bamboo rustled in the breeze, creating a soothing sound that added to the magical atmosphere. At the center of the labyrinth, we discovered a piazza with a red brick pyramid-shaped chapel, the Franco Maria Ricci Foundation. The surrounding buildings, with their minimalist lines, were designed by Bontempi, drawing inspiration from neoclassical architecture. It struck me that the labyrinth was more than just a maze; it was a metaphor for life's journey, with all its twists and turns, its moments of confusion and clarity. As Ricci himself said, it reflected our perplexed experience of reality.


Experience the world's largest maze at Labirinto della Masone, where art, nature, and culture create a unique journey in Fontanellato, Italy.

Leaving the labyrinth, we felt refreshed and invigorated, ready for the next adventure. Our historical immersion continued with a visit to the Rocca Sanvitale, also in Fontanellato. This imposing castle, surrounded by a water-filled moat, dominates the ancient village. Originally built in the 15th century, it was transformed in the early 17th century by the Parmesan architect Smeraldo Smeraldi. Inside, we admired the furniture, armors, and paintings by Schedoni, Boselli, and Nuvoloni. The highlight of Rocca Sanvitale was the small room frescoed by Parmigianino in 1524 for Paola Gonzaga and Galeazzo Sanvitale. The frescoes depict the myth of Diana and Actaeon, a tale of metamorphosis and divine retribution. As an art enthusiast, I was captivated by Parmigianino's innovative techniques and the esoteric allusions within the room. Elke, with her keen interest in history, appreciated the castle's role as a cultural center during the Renaissance.


Explore Rocca Sanvitale: A magnificent medieval castle in Fontanellato, showcasing art and history in the heart of Italy's enchanting landscapes.

After a day of exploring castles and mazes, our stomachs were rumbling. We decided to have lunch at Ristorante Meltemi. This restaurant, specializing in seafood, was a delightful surprise. We started with some fresh oysters and tuna tartare, followed by pappardelle with seafood. The service was spectacular, and the prices were reasonable. It was the perfect way to refuel after a busy day.


Discover the exquisite flavors of Mediterranean seafood at Ristorante Meltemi in Parma – a must-visit culinary destination for food lovers.

As the sun began to set, we found ourselves at Peter Pan wine bar, a cozy spot in the heart of Parma. We enjoyed a glass of local wine, reflecting on the day's adventures. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, the perfect place to unwind before dinner. It seems that Peter Pan has been a popular spot in Parma for over 20 years.


Experience the best of Parma at Peter Pan Wine Bar, where quality coffee meets exquisite wines in a cozy atmosphere.

For dinner, we chose Osteria del Teatro. This osteria, known for its cozy atmosphere and attractive prices, was a delightful culinary experience. We savored traditional Parma cuisine, enjoying the simple yet delicious flavors of the region. The staff was cheerful, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Osteria del Teatro in Parma - where tradition meets taste in every dish.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the House of Sound, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma, and the Palatina Library. I am particularly looking forward to the House of Sound, as I have always been fascinated by the history of music. Elke is eager to explore the Palatina Library, a treasure trove of ancient texts and manuscripts. As I sit here now, writing in my journal, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences of today. Parma has a way of weaving its magic, of transporting you to another time and place. It's a city that nourishes the soul, a place where history, art, and culinary delights come together in perfect harmony.
Perhaps it is time for a digestivo, and then a well deserved nights sleep.