Exploring the Enchanting Châteaux and Vineyards of the Loire Valley

Day 2: A Royal Day in Saumur: Châteaux, Caves, and Culinary Delights

Johann and family explore Saumur's majestic château, delve into the world of mushrooms, and savor local flavors in the Loire Valley.

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Saumur's Enchanting Embrace



Today was a day of immersion into the heart of the Loire Valley. We explored ancient fortresses, delved into quirky museums, and savored the region's renowned cuisine. It was a day filled with history, culture, and the simple joys of family travel – a perfect blend of experiences that I always seek to share through my blog.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Auberge du Prieuré. The morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of blossoming fruit trees. After a simple but delicious breakfast of fresh bread, local cheeses and strong coffee, we set off to explore Saumur. The family was excited, and even Maximilian seemed genuinely interested in what the day had in store, a rare sight for a teenager!



Our first stop was the imposing Château de Saumur. Rising majestically above the town, it was an awe-inspiring sight. I have always been fascinated by architecture, and the château's blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles was a feast for the eyes. The Château de Saumur, originally built in the 10th century, has served many roles over the centuries, from a fortified stronghold to a royal residence and even a prison. I imagined the countless stories held within its ancient stones, the echoes of kings and prisoners alike.

Discover the enchanting Château de Saumur, a historic castle offering stunning views, fascinating exhibits, and a glimpse into France's rich heritage.
Discover the enchanting Château de Saumur, a historic castle offering stunning views, fascinating exhibits, and a glimpse into France's rich heritage.



As we walked through the castle, Elke was particularly captivated by the decorative arts museum housed within its walls. As a librarian, she has a keen eye for detail, and the intricate tapestries and furniture pieces held her attention. Maximilian, surprisingly, was drawn to the equestrian section, perhaps inspired by Saumur's reputation as a horse-riding center. I found myself most intrigued by the castle's history, imagining the lives of those who had walked these halls before us. The views from the ramparts were stunning, offering a panoramic vista of the Loire River and the surrounding countryside. The Loire, with its tranquil waters, reflected the clear blue sky, creating a scene of serene beauty.





To truly appreciate a place, one must delve into its history, taste its flavors, and embrace its unique character.




After thoroughly exploring the château, we decided to indulge in a bit of the unexpected. We headed to the Musée du Champignon, the Mushroom Museum. I must admit, I approached this visit with a healthy dose of skepticism. However, I am always open to new experiences, and the museum promised something unique. The museum is housed in a network of caves, carved into the region's characteristic tuffeau stone. The cool, damp air inside was a welcome respite from the mild spring sunshine. As we wandered through the exhibits, we learned about the cultivation of various mushroom species, from the common button mushroom to more exotic varieties. Maximilian was particularly fascinated by the bioluminescent mushrooms, which glowed softly in the dim light.


Explore the enchanting world of mushrooms at the Musée du Champignon in Saumur, where nature meets culinary delights in an engaging museum.
Explore the enchanting world of mushrooms at the Musée du Champignon in Saumur, where nature meets culinary delights in an engaging museum.

Elke, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in the culinary applications of the different mushrooms. I, of course, was intrigued by the history of mushroom cultivation in the Loire Valley, a tradition that dates back centuries. The museum also featured a troglodytic dwelling, showcasing the traditional way of life in the region. It was a fascinating glimpse into the past, and a reminder of the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the people who have called this valley home.



For lunch, we had made reservations at the Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte, a place I had read rave reviews about. Driving up to the Château de Rochecotte was like entering a fairy tale. The elegant building, nestled in a 20-hectare park, exuded an air of timeless charm. The restaurant itself was exquisite, with stunning views of the Loire Valley. We were seated on the wisteria-covered terrace, and the gentle breeze carried the scent of flowers and herbs. The menu featured classic French cuisine, with a focus on local ingredients. I started with the escargots, a dish I always enjoy when in France. Elke opted for the asparagus soup, while Maximilian, in a rare display of adventurousness, chose the steak tartare. For the main course, I had the roasted duck, which was cooked to perfection. Elke enjoyed the grilled sea bass, and Maximilian devoured a perfectly cooked steak. The meal was a symphony of flavors, each dish expertly prepared and beautifully presented.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte in Coteaux-sur-Loire – a true culinary gem amidst stunning landscapes.
Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte in Coteaux-sur-Loire – a true culinary gem amidst stunning landscapes.

As a restorer of antique furniture, I appreciate the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into creating something truly special, and the meal at Château de Rochecotte was a testament to the culinary arts. After lunch, we took a stroll through the château's gardens, admiring the manicured lawns and vibrant flowerbeds. The formal gardens offered breathtaking views of the Loire Valley, and we lingered for a while, savoring the beauty of the surroundings.



In the late afternoon, before dinner, we stopped by Le Vieux Château bar/brasserie/terrasse for a glass of local wine. The bar had a lively atmosphere, and we enjoyed chatting with the locals and soaking up the ambiance. Saumur is known for its sparkling wines, so I ordered a glass of the local Crémant de Loire. It was crisp, refreshing, and the perfect way to end a day of exploration.


Discover Le Vieux Château, a charming bar and café in Tours offering delectable cuisine and refreshing drinks amidst a welcoming atmosphere.
Discover Le Vieux Château, a charming bar and café in Tours offering delectable cuisine and refreshing drinks amidst a welcoming atmosphere.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Auberge Pom'Poire for dinner. This charming auberge, located in Azay-le-Rideau, had been recommended to me by a fellow traveler. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a rustic charm that made us feel right at home. The menu featured innovative French cuisine, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. I started with the foie gras, a classic French delicacy. Elke chose the pumpkin soup, while Maximilian opted for the burger. For the main course, I had the roasted chicken, which was succulent and flavorful. Elke enjoyed the risotto, and Maximilian devoured his burger with gusto. The meal was a delightful end to a day of culinary adventures.


Experience exquisite French cuisine at Auberge Pom'Poire in Azay-le-Rideau—a perfect blend of fine dining and cozy hospitality.
Experience exquisite French cuisine at Auberge Pom'Poire in Azay-le-Rideau—a perfect blend of fine dining and cozy hospitality.

As we ate, we discussed our plans for tomorrow. We intend to visit the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, a Renaissance masterpiece that seems to float on the Indre River, and the Château de l'Islette, a charming castle with a romantic history. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, as I have long admired its elegant architecture. We also plan to explore the Tour de l'Horloge, a beautiful clock tower in Azay-le-Rideau.



Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the diversity and richness of the Loire Valley. From majestic châteaux to quirky museums and exquisite cuisine, there is something for everyone to enjoy. It is a region that rewards exploration, and I am grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you. As we drove back to our lodging, I couldn't help but feel a sense of contentment. The Loire Valley had cast its spell on us, and I knew that we would carry the memories of this day with us long after we had left its enchanting embrace. The weather today was mild, with temperatures hovering around 17 degrees Celsius. The sun shone brightly for most of the day, making it perfect for exploring the outdoors.



I am already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures, and I can't wait to share them with you. Until then, au revoir!


Go to day 1 A Royal Start: Chambord and Cheverny Châteaux Beckon!
Go to day 3 A Tale of Two Châteaux: Discovering the Hidden Gems of the Loire Valley
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Exploring the Enchanting Châteaux and Vineyards of the Loire Valley

Discover the rich history and stunning landscapes of the Loire Valley with Johann and family, exploring châteaux, vineyards, and local culture.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Johann Gruber
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 51

Greetings, fellow travelers! I'm Johann Gruber, a restorer of antique furniture from Heidelberg, Germany, with a passion for history, culture, and exploration. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, offering detailed insights, historical context, and personal anecdotes. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of the world, one carefully crafted blog post at a time. Together with my wife, Elke, I seek out immersive and enriching experiences, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures.

Interests:
  • History
  • Architecture
  • Photography
  • Classical Music
  • Culinary Arts
More about Johann Gruber

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Château de Saumur

    Discover the enchanting Château de Saumur, a historic castle offering stunning views, fascinating exhibits, and a glimpse into France's rich heritage.

  • Musée du Champignon

    Explore the enchanting world of mushrooms at the Musée du Champignon in Saumur, where nature meets culinary delights in an engaging museum.

  • Auberge du Prieuré

    Discover authentic French cuisine at Auberge du Prieuré in Amboise, where every dish tells a story of local tradition and flavor.

  • Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte

    Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Restaurant du Château de Rochecotte in Coteaux-sur-Loire – a true culinary gem amidst stunning landscapes.

  • Auberge Pom'Poire

    Experience exquisite French cuisine at Auberge Pom'Poire in Azay-le-Rideau—a perfect blend of fine dining and cozy hospitality.

  • Le Vieux Château bar/brasserie/terrasse

    Discover Le Vieux Château, a charming bar and café in Tours offering delectable cuisine and refreshing drinks amidst a welcoming atmosphere.

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