Exploring the Enchanting Châteaux and Vineyards of the Loire Valley

Day 3: A Tale of Two Châteaux: Discovering the Hidden Gems of the Loire Valley

Explore the enchanting Château d'Azay-le-Rideau and the romantic Château de l'Islette, jewels of the Loire Valley's rich history.

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Echoes of the Renaissance


Today, the Loire Valley unveiled more of its captivating charm. It's remarkable how each château possesses its own unique story, whispering tales of kings, artists, and the ebb and flow of French history. Elke and Maximilian were particularly excited about today's itinerary, and I was eager to share the experience with them.

Our day began, as most do on vacation, with a hearty breakfast at Restaurant le 36 in Amboise. The setting was lovely, and the food was delicious. The restaurant's location near the water added to the ambiance, making it a perfect start to our day of exploration. I had read some good reviews about it, and it certainly lived up to expectations.

Experience authentic French cuisine with stunning river views at Restaurant le 36 in Amboise – where every meal is a celebration.
Experience authentic French cuisine with stunning river views at Restaurant le 36 in Amboise – where every meal is a celebration.

After breakfast, we set off for our first destination: the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau. As we approached, the château shimmered before us, seemingly floating on the Indre River. The delicate balance of French architecture and Italianate ornamentation was immediately striking. I couldn't help but think of my work back in Heidelberg, restoring antique furniture, and how the craftsmanship of this château reflected a similar dedication to detail and artistry. The way the light played on the water and the stone was simply breathtaking. Maximilian, ever the observant one, pointed out the reflections and how they seemed to double the château's grandeur. He's developing quite the eye for photography, that boy.

Explore the stunning Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, a Renaissance gem surrounded by lush gardens and rich history in the heart of France.
Explore the stunning Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, a Renaissance gem surrounded by lush gardens and rich history in the heart of France.

We learned that the château was built between 1518 and 1527, during the reign of François I, and that it stands on an island in the Indre river. I found myself imagining Gilles Berthelot, one of the financiers of François I, and his wife, Philippe Lesbahy, who oversaw the construction. The château's history is intertwined with tales of royalty, financial intrigue, and even destruction during the Hundred Years' War. It's fascinating how a place can hold so much history within its walls.

Elke was particularly drawn to the landscaped park and pools surrounding the château, created by the Biencourt family in the 19th century. She appreciated the way the gardens complemented the architecture, creating a harmonious blend of nature and human design. As we strolled through the grounds, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility. The air was fresh, the birds were singing, and the beauty of the Loire Valley was all around us.

The beauty of the Loire Valley lies not just in its grand châteaux, but in the quiet stories whispered by the stones and reflected in the waters.


After thoroughly exploring Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, we drove a short distance to our next stop: Château de l'Islette. This château, smaller and perhaps less known than its neighbor, held a different kind of charm. As we approached, I couldn't help but notice the similarities in design to Azay-le-Rideau, a fact confirmed by our guidebook. Apparently, tradition holds that the same team of workers built both châteaux around the same time.

Discover the enchanting Château de l'Islette, a stunning castle in the Loire Valley rich in history and surrounded by beautiful gardens.
Discover the enchanting Château de l'Islette, a stunning castle in the Loire Valley rich in history and surrounded by beautiful gardens.

Château de l'Islette sits on a small island formed where the River Indre forks. It was designed by René de Maillé, with construction lasting from 1526 to 1530. The chateau later passed into the hands of the Tiercelin d'Appelvoisin and Barjot de Roncée families. In the 1890s, the château served as a romantic haven for the sculptors Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel, who stayed there on several occasions. It was fascinating to learn that Camille Claudel sculpted La Petite Châtelaine de l'Islette there, with the granddaughter of the château owners serving as the model. Elke, who has a keen interest in art history, was particularly intrigued by this connection.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Château de l'Islette is that it is still inhabited by its owners, the Michaud family. This gives the château a unique atmosphere, blending Renaissance elegance with modern-day living. As we walked through the rooms, we could sense the presence of the family, adding a personal touch to the experience.

For lunch, we enjoyed a delightful meal at Auberge du Prieuré. The restaurant's traditional French cuisine was a welcome treat, and we savored the flavors of the Loire Valley. Maximilian, always eager to try new things, ordered a local specialty that he thoroughly enjoyed.

Discover authentic French cuisine at Auberge du Prieuré in Amboise, where every dish tells a story of local tradition and flavor.
Discover authentic French cuisine at Auberge du Prieuré in Amboise, where every dish tells a story of local tradition and flavor.

In the late afternoon, we took a stroll through the town of Amboise and visited the Tour de l'Horloge. While the tower itself was interesting, I found myself more captivated by the lively atmosphere of the town. Rue Nationale, the main shopping street, was bustling with activity. I was hoping to find a nice antique shop, but instead found that there is a Spring Fair taking place at the Tour de l'Horloge on April 5th. Perhaps we'll come back and visit again. It's always nice to see a town thriving and full of life.

Discover stunning views and rich history at the Tour de l'Horloge in Amboise, a must-see observation deck overlooking the Loire River.
Discover stunning views and rich history at the Tour de l'Horloge in Amboise, a must-see observation deck overlooking the Loire River.

Tonight, we are looking forward to dinner at Restaurant Le Château de Pray. The Michelin Guide recommends it, and Elke and I are eager to experience Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine. Maximilian is a bit more skeptical, but I have a feeling he'll be pleasantly surprised.

Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.
Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the diversity and richness of the Loire Valley. Each château has its own story to tell, and each town has its own unique character. It's a place where history, art, and nature come together in perfect harmony. I'm grateful to be sharing this experience with my family, and I look forward to discovering more of the Loire Valley's treasures in the days to come.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Château de Villandry and its famous gardens. I've heard that the gardens are particularly stunning, and I'm eager to see them for myself. We'll also explore the Diane de Poitiers Garden and, in the evening, perhaps enjoy a drink at Sauvage, a local bar. I have a feeling that tomorrow will be another day filled with beauty, history, and unforgettable moments.

I must remember to purchase a French phrasebook, as I'm finding my high school French is not quite up to par! Also, I should have brought a portable phone charger. It's difficult to take photos and videos when your phone is constantly running out of battery.
Go to day 2 A Royal Day in Saumur: Châteaux, Caves, and Culinary Delights
Go to day 4 A Day Amidst Beauty: Exploring Villandry's Gardens
trip photo
Exploring the Enchanting Châteaux and Vineyards of the Loire Valley

Discover the rich history and stunning landscapes of the Loire Valley with Johann and family, exploring châteaux, vineyards, and local culture.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Johann Gruber
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 51

Greetings, fellow travelers! I'm Johann Gruber, a restorer of antique furniture from Heidelberg, Germany, with a passion for history, culture, and exploration. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, offering detailed insights, historical context, and personal anecdotes. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of the world, one carefully crafted blog post at a time. Together with my wife, Elke, I seek out immersive and enriching experiences, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures.

Interests:
  • History
  • Architecture
  • Photography
  • Classical Music
  • Culinary Arts
More about Johann Gruber

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Château d'Azay-le-Rideau

    Explore the stunning Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, a Renaissance gem surrounded by lush gardens and rich history in the heart of France.

  • Château de l'Islette

    Discover the enchanting Château de l'Islette, a stunning castle in the Loire Valley rich in history and surrounded by beautiful gardens.

  • Restaurant le 36

    Experience authentic French cuisine with stunning river views at Restaurant le 36 in Amboise – where every meal is a celebration.

  • Auberge du Prieuré

    Discover authentic French cuisine at Auberge du Prieuré in Amboise, where every dish tells a story of local tradition and flavor.

  • Restaurant Le Château de Pray

    Experience exquisite French cuisine and breathtaking views at Restaurant Le Château de Pray in Amboise.

  • Tour de l'Horloge

    Discover stunning views and rich history at the Tour de l'Horloge in Amboise, a must-see observation deck overlooking the Loire River.

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