Exploring the Enchanting Palaces of Sintra
Day 11: A Melancholy Saturday in Lisbon: Fado and Ancient Echoes
Experience Lisbon's soul through Fado and history as Johann and Elke explore its melancholic beauty on their penultimate day.
Echoes of the Past, Sounds of the Soul
Today, our penultimate day in Portugal, Elke and I found ourselves drawn to Lisbon, a city that hums with a unique blend of history and soulful expression. It was a day of contrasts, from the grandeur of ancient monuments to the intimate melancholy of Fado. We knew we had to soak in as much as possible, knowing our Sintra adventure was drawing to a close.
Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Mela Canela. It’s a charming spot, and while Elke enjoyed her coffee, I savored the vegan options, a delightful change of pace. It's always refreshing to find places that cater to different tastes; it reminds me of the diverse clientele I serve back in Heidelberg, each with their unique preferences for antique furniture. I often find myself thinking about my workshop and the pieces waiting for my attention. Perhaps I'll find a unique piece here in Portugal to bring back and restore. I made a mental note to look for antique shops tomorrow.
Savor the flavors of plant-based cuisine at Mela Canela in Sintra - where health meets taste in every bite.
After breakfast, we made our way to the Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora. The monastery stands as a testament to Lisbon's resilience, having survived the devastating earthquake of 1755. As we wandered through its halls, I was struck by the intricate tilework, depicting scenes from the fables of La Fontaine. The level of detail and craftsmanship was simply astounding, a true feast for the eyes. Elke, ever the historian, was particularly fascinated by the royal Braganza pantheon, a somber yet impressive display of Portugal's royal lineage. I found myself reflecting on the stories these walls could tell, the echoes of history resonating in every corner.
Discover the historical beauty and serene atmosphere of Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora, a must-visit monastery in Lisbon filled with rich culture and stunning views.
The soul of a city is not just in its monuments, but in the stories whispered through its music and art.
We climbed to the rooftop, where a panoramic view of Lisbon unfolded before us. The Tagus River glistened in the afternoon sun, and the terracotta rooftops stretched out like a warm embrace. It was a moment of serene beauty, a reminder of the enduring spirit of this remarkable city. I captured a few photographs, hoping to preserve the memory of this breathtaking vista. I thought of Maximilian and how he would have loved to see this view. Perhaps one day, I'll bring him and Elke back to experience it together.
For lunch, we ventured to Dom Pipas. The restaurant had a cozy, family-run feel, away from the main tourist bustle. Elke and I shared a sampler plate of traditional Portuguese dishes, each bite a delightful explosion of flavors. The Bacalhau com Natas was particularly memorable, creamy and rich, a true comfort food. It reminded me of the hearty meals my mother used to prepare in Gmunden, filling our home with warmth and laughter.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Dom Pipas in Sintra - where flavor meets tradition in a cozy atmosphere.
After lunch, we strolled through the Alfama district, drawn by the promise of authentic Fado. We passed by Chmacrilicos, Lda, a shop that caught my eye with its array of local crafts, but we resisted the urge to shop, knowing we had a Fado performance to attend. The narrow, winding streets of Alfama seemed to pulse with a melancholic energy, a perfect prelude to the music that awaited us. I could feel the history seeping from the cobblestones, each step echoing with the footsteps of generations past.
Discover local treasures at Chmacrilicos, Lda in A-dos-Rolhados Sintra, where unique shopping meets the charm of Portuguese culture.
As evening approached, we found ourselves at A Travessa do Fado (Museu do Fado), a restaurant known for its traditional Fado performances. The atmosphere was intimate, the dimly lit room creating a sense of hushed anticipation. We settled in, ordered a bottle of local wine, and prepared to be transported by the music.
Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine alongside enchanting live Fado music at A Travessa do Fado in Lisbon.
The Fado performance was nothing short of mesmerizing. The soulful voices of the singers, accompanied by the mournful strains of the Portuguese guitar, filled the room with a profound sense of longing and saudade. The music spoke of love, loss, and the bittersweet realities of life, resonating deep within my soul. I closed my eyes, letting the music wash over me, feeling a connection to the heart of Portugal. Elke squeezed my hand, and I knew she was moved as well.
After the performance, we decided to stop by Salla de Estar for a nightcap. The bar had a relaxed, local vibe, and we enjoyed a quiet drink, reflecting on the day's experiences. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with history, culture, and the soulful sounds of Fado.
Discover the cozy charm of Salla de Estar, a beloved bar in Sintra offering delightful snacks and expertly crafted cocktails in a welcoming atmosphere.
Tomorrow marks the end of our journey, and we plan to spend our last day exploring more of Lisbon, including Alfama and the Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon. We'll have breakfast at Pure Taste, lunch at Monserrate, and a farewell dinner at Porta do Mar. We might even do some shopping at El Corte Inglés Lisboa and have a final drink at The Old Bull Bar&Lounge. As I sit here, writing this blog post, I feel a sense of contentment, grateful for the memories we've created during our time in Sintra and Lisbon.
As we prepare to leave, I find myself already longing for the beauty and tranquility of Sintra. But I know that we will carry the memories of this trip with us, etched in our hearts forever. And who knows, perhaps we will return one day to explore more of this enchanting country.
Until tomorrow,
Johann
Discover the rich history and stunning architecture of Sintra, Portugal, on a 12-day cultural exploration with Johann and Elke Gruber.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Restorer of Antique Furniture
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Country: Germany
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Age: 51
Greetings, fellow travelers! I'm Johann Gruber, a restorer of antique furniture from Heidelberg, Germany, with a passion for history, culture, and exploration. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, offering detailed insights, historical context, and personal anecdotes. Join me as I uncover the hidden gems of the world, one carefully crafted blog post at a time. Together with my wife, Elke, I seek out immersive and enriching experiences, hoping to inspire you to embark on your own adventures.
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