Exploring the Enchanting Palaces of Sintra

Echoes of the Past, Visions of Beauty

Today, Elke and I embarked on a journey through time and nature, exploring two of Sintra's most captivating landmarks. From the ancient walls of The Moorish Castle to the exotic gardens of Monserrate Palace, it was a day filled with breathtaking views and enchanting discoveries. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to immerse myself in history and culture, and to share these experiences with my readers.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Incomum. The restaurant lived up to its name, offering a delightful start to our Sintra explorations with a selection of local pastries and strong coffee. I particularly enjoyed the traditional *pastel de nata*, a custard tart that was the perfect blend of sweet and creamy. With our appetites satisfied, we set off towards the hills, ready to delve into the history of The Moorish Castle.

The Moorish Castle, or *Castelo dos Mouros*, stands proudly atop the Sintra Mountains, a testament to the region's rich and diverse past. As we ascended the winding path towards the entrance, I couldn't help but imagine the countless generations who had walked this same route, from the Moors who built the castle in the 8th and 9th centuries to the Christian knights who later conquered it. The views from the ramparts were simply stunning, stretching out over the Sintra hills, the Pena Palace shimmering in the distance, and the Atlantic coastline fading into the horizon.

Elke and I spent hours exploring the castle's ruins, climbing the ancient walls, and marveling at the strategic genius of its design. The castle was built by North African Moors to protect the town of Sintra and keep an eye on the trade routes. The double curtain walls and the silos are testaments of the ingenuity of its architects. We explored the Islamic Quarter, imagining the lives of those who once lived within these walls. It was fascinating to see the remains of the Romanesque Chapel of São Pedro, built after Afonso I conquered Lisbon in 1147. The chapel now houses a small interpretation center where we examined artifacts from archaeological digs, including pottery and game pieces. The climb was a bit strenuous, even for someone who enjoys hiking in the Odenwald forest back home, but the panoramic views were well worth the effort.

To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.

After immersing ourselves in the history of the Moorish Castle, we descended back into Sintra and enjoyed a simple but delicious lunch at Apeadeiro. We shared a *francesinha*, a Portuguese sandwich originating from Porto, which was the perfect fuel for our next adventure. It was a hearty meal, and sitting outside in the mild September air, we enjoyed watching the people pass by, locals and tourists alike, all drawn to the magic of Sintra.

Our afternoon was dedicated to the Park and Palace of Monserrate. This estate is a testament to 19th-century Romanticism, blending various architectural styles with exotic vegetation. As we entered the palace grounds, we were immediately transported to another world. The palace itself is a stunning example of architectural eclecticism, combining Gothic, Indian, and Moorish influences. It was commissioned by Francis Cook, an English merchant, in 1846. The intricate details of the facade, the delicate arches, and the ornate carvings were a feast for the eyes.

Inside, the palace was just as breathtaking, with its opulent rooms, soaring ceilings, and intricate stucco work. The Corridor's stuccoes are inspired by Alhambra Palace in Granada. The palace has passed through many hands, including William Beckford. The Cook family used the palace as a summer retreat, hosting parties amidst the landscape. Elke, with her librarian's eye for detail, was particularly fascinated by the library, imagining the stories that might have been read within those walls. As a restorer of antique furniture, I was impressed by the craftsmanship and attention to detail evident in every corner of the palace.

But it was the gardens of Monserrate that truly stole our hearts. Spread across the estate, the gardens are home to a diverse collection of plant species from around the world, carefully arranged to create a series of enchanting landscapes. We wandered through the rose garden, the Japanese garden, and the Mexican garden, each offering a unique sensory experience. Waterfalls cascaded down rocky slopes, exotic birds sang in the trees, and the air was filled with the sweet scent of blooming flowers.

The history of Monserrate dates back to 1540 when a hermitage was built on the site. Over the centuries, it passed through various owners, including William Beckford. The landscape is inspired by Romanticism, with plants structured into geographic areas. The Portuguese government acquired the property in 1949. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We strolled along winding paths, discovering hidden grottoes and panoramic viewpoints. The park has species from all around the world. As we explored, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility, a connection to nature that is often missing in our busy modern lives.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the Sintra hills, we made our way back to Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião.


Discover the charm of Sintra at Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião, a 3-star hotel offering comfort, convenience, and captivating local attractions.

We took a detour through the Sintra Centre, picking up a few souvenirs for Maximilian. Before dinner, we stopped at The Old Bull Bar&Lounge for a drink. The bar is known for its friendly staff and lively atmosphere. It's a great place to relax and enjoy local wines and craft beers. The Old Bull Bar & Lounge has a moderate price level and is known for its decor and 80s music. The owner gave us advice about our trip and fun facts about Sintra. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.

For dinner, we chose Taverna dos Trovadores, a restaurant known for its traditional Portuguese cuisine and cozy atmosphere. We shared a *cataplana*, a seafood stew cooked in a copper pot, which was bursting with flavor. As we savored each bite, we reflected on the day's adventures, the echoes of the past mingling with the beauty of the present. It was a day that will forever be etched in our memories, a testament to the magic of Sintra.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the rugged coastline, visiting Cabo da Roca and Praia da Ursa. I'm looking forward to seeing the dramatic cliffs and the wild beauty of the Atlantic Ocean. But for now, I'm content to relax and savor the memories of today, the ancient stones and the exotic gardens, the echoes of the Moors and the visions of the Romantics.

As I sit here, penning these thoughts, I realize how fortunate I am to share these experiences with Elke and with you, my readers. It is through travel that we broaden our horizons, deepen our understanding of the world, and connect with the stories of those who came before us. And it is through sharing these stories that we keep the spirit of adventure alive, inspiring others to embark on their own journeys of discovery.

Until tomorrow, *Adeus* from Sintra.