Exploring the Enchanting Palaces of Sintra

Edge of the World and a Hidden Beach

Today, Elke and I ventured to the westernmost point of continental Europe and a secluded beach, a stark contrast to the palace visits of yesterday. Leaving the familiar cobblestone streets of Sintra behind, we embraced the rugged beauty of the Portuguese coast. With each gust of wind, I felt a sense of anticipation building, a feeling akin to the excitement I experience when uncovering a hidden layer of history in a piece of antique furniture. Today was about raw nature, and I was ready to absorb it all.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Petiscaria Casa. I enjoyed some delightful *petiscos* while Elke savored a strong *café*. Fuelled up, we set off towards Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe. The drive itself was scenic, winding through rolling hills and offering glimpses of the Atlantic. As we approached the cape, the landscape transformed into dramatic cliffs battered by relentless waves. The air was thick with the salty scent of the sea, and the wind howled a constant reminder of nature's power.

Arriving at Cabo da Roca, we were immediately struck by the sheer drama of the location. The cliffs plunged vertiginously into the turquoise waters below, creating a scene of untamed beauty. Despite the presence of other tourists, a sense of solitude permeated the air. I imagined the sailors of centuries past, believing this to be the edge of the world, their ships teetering on the brink of the unknown. I took several photographs, trying to capture the immensity of the landscape, knowing full well that no image could truly convey the feeling of standing at such a dramatic precipice.

We strolled along the cliff tops, the wind whipping at our faces, until we reached the iconic lighthouse. Its stoic presence added to the sense of isolation, a beacon guiding ships through treacherous waters. I thought of Elke's work as a librarian, how she safeguards knowledge and guides people through the vast ocean of literature. In a way, this lighthouse was doing the same, guiding seafarers through the ocean of the world.

The allure of the unknown is a powerful force, drawing us to the edges of the map and the depths of our own curiosity.

After soaking in the views at Cabo da Roca, we were ready for our next adventure: Praia da Ursa. This beach, known for its secluded beauty and challenging access, promised a more intimate encounter with nature. The trail down to Praia da Ursa was indeed steep and rocky, requiring sturdy shoes and a sense of adventure. As someone who appreciates the value of a well-crafted object, I admired the way the trail was carved into the landscape, a testament to human ingenuity adapting to nature's challenges. Elke, ever the pragmatist, reminded me to watch my step, her librarian's concern for order and safety always present.

The descent was a bit strenuous, and I was glad I'd worn my comfortable walking shoes. The path wound its way down the cliff face, offering breathtaking views of the coastline. The turquoise waters crashed against the rocks below, sending up plumes of white spray. As we descended, the sound of the ocean grew louder, and the anticipation of reaching the beach grew stronger.

Finally, after about twenty minutes of careful trekking, we reached Praia da Ursa. And what a reward it was! The beach was small and secluded, nestled between towering cliffs. The sand was soft and golden, and the water was crystal clear. The beach's name, meaning Bear Beach, comes from a large rock formation that, with a bit of imagination, resembles a bear holding its cub.


Experience the untouched beauty of Praia da Ursa, a serene beach in Portugal's Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, where cliffs meet crystal waters.

We spent a blissful few hours on Praia da Ursa, basking in the sun and swimming in the invigoratingly cold water. The beach was relatively empty, allowing us to feel like we had discovered our own private paradise. I took the opportunity to practice my photography, capturing the dramatic rock formations and the vibrant colors of the sea and sky. Elke, meanwhile, explored the shoreline, collecting seashells and smooth stones. I even braved the cold water for a swim, feeling the invigorating shock jolt me awake. It was a far cry from the controlled environment of my workshop, but it was a welcome change.

As the afternoon wore on, we reluctantly began the ascent back to Cabo da Roca. The climb was challenging, but the views were even more rewarding on the way up. We paused frequently to catch our breath and take in the scenery, feeling a sense of accomplishment for having conquered the trail. Back at the top, we felt a sense of satisfaction, a shared experience that had brought us even closer together.

Before heading back to Sintra, we stopped for a late lunch at Curral dos Caprinos. The restaurant was rustic and charming, serving traditional Portuguese cuisine. I opted for the roast goat, a local specialty, while Elke enjoyed a fresh seafood dish. We savored our meal, accompanied by a bottle of crisp vinho verde, feeling content and relaxed after our day of coastal exploration.

In the late afternoon, we strolled through the Bibelot Sintra, a charming little bookstore. Elke, of course, was in her element, browsing the shelves with a keen eye. I found a fascinating book on the history of Portuguese furniture making, which I promptly purchased. It's always a pleasure to find something that connects my travels back to my passion for antique restoration.

Before dinner, we stopped at Botica Saloia, a local bar, for a refreshing drink. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly locals. I tried a glass of *Ginja*, a traditional Portuguese cherry liqueur, while Elke opted for a glass of local wine.

For dinner, we decided to try Metamorphosis, a restaurant known for its modern take on Portuguese cuisine. The restaurant's name seemed fitting after a day of such contrasting experiences, from the rugged coastline to the refined flavors of the local dishes. The meal was delicious, a perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery. I savored every bite, appreciating the skill and creativity of the chef.

As we walked back to Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião under the starlit sky, I reflected on the day's adventures. From the dramatic cliffs of Cabo da Roca to the secluded beauty of Praia da Ursa, we had experienced the raw power and captivating beauty of the Portuguese coast. It was a day that reminded me of the importance of embracing the unexpected, of venturing off the beaten path to discover hidden treasures. It also reminded me of the joy of sharing these experiences with Elke, my constant companion and fellow adventurer.


Discover the charm of Sintra at Casa Holstein Quinta de São Sebastião, a 3-star hotel offering comfort, convenience, and captivating local attractions.

Tomorrow, we delve back into the opulent world of Sintra’s palaces with visits to Palácio Nacional de Pena and the Chalet of the Countess of Edla. After breakfast at Adega do Saloio, we plan to have lunch at Tacho Real and dinner at Sabores de Sintra. Perhaps we’ll find some time to browse A Loja and enjoy a drink at ZID lounge Bar. I anticipate more architectural wonders and historical insights, but I will carry the memory of the wind and waves of Cabo da Roca with me, a reminder of the untamed beauty that lies just beyond the palace walls. Good night from Sintra!