Exploring the Enchanting Gassho-Zukuri Villages of Shirakawa-go

Whispers of Yesterday

Today, Lena and I delved deeper into the soul of Shirakawa-go, venturing beyond the iconic farmhouses to uncover its hidden charms. It was a day of gentle exploration, of savoring the quiet moments and letting the stories of this remarkable village unfold before us. From tranquil walkways to historic teahouse districts, every corner held a new discovery, a new perspective on the timeless beauty of rural Japan.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Koshiyama. The inn was conveniently located and known for local specialties. After breakfast we set out to explore the Wooden Walkway. The morning air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and distant cedar trees. The sun, still low in the sky, cast long shadows across the rice paddies, painting the landscape in hues of gold and emerald. As we strolled along the path, the only sounds were the gentle murmur of the river and the occasional chirping of birds. It was a scene of perfect tranquility, a moment of pure connection with nature.


Discover the enchanting Wooden Walkway in Shirakawa, where traditional architecture meets breathtaking Japanese landscapes, perfect for leisurely exploration.

The Wooden Walkway meandered alongside the Shogawa River, offering breathtaking views of the gassho-zukuri farmhouses nestled against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains. I paused frequently to capture the scenery with my camera, trying to encapsulate the serene beauty of the landscape. Lena, ever the artist, found inspiration in the intricate details of the traditional architecture, the way the light played on the thatched roofs, the delicate balance between man and nature.

Sometimes, the greatest adventures are found not in grand gestures, but in the quiet moments of discovery.

After our walk, we decided to venture a bit further afield, taking a bus to Kanazawa to visit the Nishi Chaya District. I’d read about this historic teahouse district and was eager to experience its unique atmosphere. The bus ride was an adventure in itself, winding through lush valleys and over mountain passes, offering glimpses of rural life in Japan. I made a mental note to buy a Japanese phrasebook since I had forgotten it at home in Berlin.

Arriving in Kanazawa, we made our way to Nishi Chaya, one of Kanazawa's three historic “teahouse” entertainment districts. Established in 1820, it was an area for geiko to entertain wealthy patrons with music, dance, and games. The main street of the neighborhood was lined with traditional wooden teahouses and retained the atmosphere of earlier times. Many of the buildings now house sweet shops and cafes, but some still operate as exclusive geiko parlors. The district exuded an atmosphere of old-world charm, with its narrow cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved wooden buildings. Unlike the more crowded Higashi Chaya District, Nishi Chaya felt intimate and secluded, a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.


Discover the enchanting Nishi Chaya District in Kanazawa, where history and traditional Japanese culture come to life in picturesque surroundings.

We spent the afternoon wandering through the streets, peeking into quaint shops and admiring the traditional architecture. Lena was particularly fascinated by the intricate latticework on the windows, a hallmark of the teahouse district. We stopped at a small café for a cup of matcha tea, savoring the delicate flavors and soaking in the peaceful ambiance. I imagined what it must have been like in the Edo period, when geishas entertained wealthy merchants and samurai in these very buildings.

For lunch, we found a cozy restaurant called Hiiragi. The friendly owners and delicious food made it a standout dining experience. It was a cute restaurant along the snow-covered the vehicle-access road to the lookout point in Ogimachi, Shirakawa-go. We enjoyed Hida beef skewers, sukiyaki, and other flavorful dishes. The Hida beef was tender, juicy, and offered a rich mouthfeel.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiiragi in Shirakawa - where tradition meets taste amidst stunning natural beauty.

As evening approached, we made our way to Masuzono Bunsuke for dinner. This small family restaurant offered a serene and quiet atmosphere away from the bustling crowds. The chef took pride in serving fresh fish dishes, and the menu featured river fish such as Iwana and Nijimasu, with sashimi made from Nijimasu. It was a perfect way to end our day of exploration, savoring the flavors of the region in a peaceful and authentic setting. The restaurant was a charming Syokudo and Teishoku restaurant that embodied the essence of traditional Japanese dining.


Experience authentic Japanese dining at Masuzono Bunsuke in Shirakawa – where tradition meets taste.

After dinner, we decided to check out Masuzono Bunsuke bar. It was nice to unwind with locals and tourists alike. We met a few fellow travelers, swapping stories and sharing tips about our adventures in Japan. It was a reminder of the connections that travel can forge, the shared experiences that bind us together, regardless of our backgrounds or beliefs.

As we made our way back to our accommodation, I reflected on the day's experiences. Shirakawa-go had revealed itself to be more than just a collection of picturesque farmhouses. It was a living, breathing community, a place where tradition and modernity coexisted in harmony. It was a place where the simple pleasures of life – a walk in nature, a cup of tea, a shared meal – were elevated to an art form.

Tomorrow, we're planning to explore Hida-Sashiko, delving into the world of traditional Japanese embroidery. We'll also visit the Jinya-mae Morning Markets, eager to immerse ourselves in the local culture and discover unique crafts. And, of course, we'll be sure to sample some of the delicious local cuisine. I am particularly excited to have breakfast at Shiraogi!

As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this remarkable village with Lena. It was a journey of discovery, not just of a place, but of ourselves. And I knew, with absolute certainty, that the memories we were creating here would stay with us long after we returned to Berlin.

The stars twinkled outside our window, casting a gentle glow on the gassho-zukuri farmhouses in the distance. I closed my eyes, listening to the sounds of the night, the gentle rustling of leaves, the distant hoot of an owl. It was a lullaby of nature, a reminder of the peace and tranquility that can be found in the most unexpected places. And I knew, with a sense of deep contentment, that I was exactly where I needed to be.

Exploring Shirakawa-go with Lena has been an incredible experience, and I'm excited to see what other hidden gems we'll uncover during our time here. Stay tuned for more adventures!

Tomorrow, we're heading to the Jinya-mae Morning Markets. I'm excited to immerse myself in the local culture and discover unique crafts. And, of course, we'll be sure to sample some of the delicious local cuisine. I can't wait to see what culinary delights await us! It's moments like these that make me appreciate the beauty of travel and the joy of experiencing new cultures with my amazing wife.

As the sun sets over Shirakawa-go, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had today. From the tranquil Wooden Walkway to the historic Nishi Chaya District, every moment has been a treasure. And I know that tomorrow will bring even more adventures as we continue to explore this enchanting region of Japan. Good night from Shirakawa-go!

Thinking of our next destination, Takayama, I'm eager to explore the Hida-Sashiko and the charming streets lined with traditional buildings. I've heard whispers of its nickname, 'Little Kyoto,' and I'm excited to see what cultural treasures await us there. But for now, I'll savor the memories of today and dream of the adventures to come. Good night, world!