Solo Sojourn in the Tokaj Wine Region

Echoes of History and Wine in Tokaj

Today was another day of immersive exploration here in the Tokaj Wine Region, and I couldn't wait to share my experiences. It's amazing how much history and culture can be packed into a single day when you're wandering through a place like this. From delving into cellar labyrinths to uncovering stories behind ancient houses, every corner has something unique to offer.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Hotel Kelep. I must say, the hotel provided a delightful start with its cozy ambiance and local charm. The breakfast spread was quite impressive, offering a variety of options that catered even to specific dietary needs – a thoughtful touch that I appreciated. It set the perfect tone for a day of exploration. I made a mental note to tell Katarína about this place; she’d appreciate the attention to detail and the comfortable atmosphere. I think we should come back here together sometime. I made sure to grab an extra strong coffee, knowing I had a full day ahead.


Discover tranquility at Hotel Kelep, your ideal getaway in Tokaj's wine country with comfort and local charm.

First on the agenda was the Vinoteka and Cellar-labyrint in Bodrogkeresztúr. This place is a hidden gem, a unique wine store that also boasts a fascinating cellar system. As a historical linguist, I'm always intrigued by the stories behind old structures, and this cellar was no exception. It is a spectacular sight, more than 1 kilometer long on five levels under Dereszla vineyards. Exploring the labyrinthine tunnels, I learned about the history of winemaking in the region, the traditional methods, and the processes involved in creating Tokaj's famous wines. The cool, damp air and the rows upon rows of aging bottles created an atmosphere that was both mysterious and captivating. It was easy to imagine generations of winemakers working in these very cellars, perfecting their craft.


Discover the enchanting world of Tokaj wines at Vinoteka and Cellar-Labyrinth in Bodrogkeresztúr, where tradition meets exquisite taste.

The history of Tokaj is deeply intertwined with its wine production, a tradition that dates back over a thousand years. As I wandered through the cellar, I couldn't help but reflect on the linguistic connections, tracing the origins of words related to wine and viticulture. It's fascinating how language can preserve and transmit cultural knowledge across centuries. In fact, the world's first vineyard classification system was established here in 1730 by royal decree, which shows how important wine making was to this region.

The Tokaj Wine Region represents a distinct viticultural tradition that has existed for at least a thousand years and which has survived intact up to the present.

After the Vinoteka, I made my way to the Ágyúgolyós ház, or the Cannonball House, in Tokaj. This historical landmark is steeped in local lore, and it’s easy to see why. The house itself is a testament to the architectural styles of bygone eras, offering a glimpse into Tokaj's rich cultural tapestry. The story goes that the house was struck by a cannonball during one of the many conflicts that swept through the region, embedding the projectile in its wall. While the veracity of the tale is debated, it adds an undeniable charm to the building.


Discover the rich history and winemaking heritage of Tokaj at the enchanting Ágyúgolyós Ház, a must-visit historical landmark.

As I stood before the Ágyúgolyós ház, I couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the past. The house serves as a symbol of the resilience and creativity of the local community, a reminder of the historical events that have shaped Tokaj over the centuries. It was also a great photo opportunity! The unique design and the picturesque views made it an essential stop for any traveler seeking to understand the local culture. I spent some time exploring the area around the house, taking in the scenic views and imagining what life must have been like in Tokaj centuries ago.

For lunch, I headed to Bacchus, a family restaurant on the main square of Tokaj. This restaurant is known for its traditional Hungarian dishes and Tokaj wine specialties. I decided to try the Halaszle, a traditional Hungarian fish soup, followed by Rantott Hus, the Hungarian version of Schnitzel. It was a hearty and delicious meal, perfectly paired with a glass of local Furmint. The restaurant had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and attentive. It was the perfect place to relax and recharge after a morning of exploring.


Discover Bacchus in Tokaj: A culinary haven featuring traditional Hungarian dishes like goulash and fine house wines amidst warm hospitality.

In the afternoon, I made a stop at Dobogó Pincészet, a local winery and shop. Dobogó is a small, family-run winery known for its fresh, vibrant, and exciting expressions of Tokaji wines. The vineyards are farmed using organic methods, and the wines are made with a focus on preserving the unique terroir of the region. I sampled a few of their wines, including their famous Tokaji Aszú, and was impressed by the quality and complexity of the flavors. I ended up purchasing a bottle of their dry Furmint to take back to Katarína; I know she’ll appreciate its aromatic profile and creamy minerality. It is an aromatic wine with a lot of creaminess and minerality, made from 100% Furmint grapes, grown in the old vineyards of Betsek and Szent Tamas.


Explore Dobogó Pincészet, a scenic winery in Tokaj offering exquisite wines, vineyard tours, and a taste of Hungary's rich winemaking tradition.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Hímesudvar winery for dinner. Hímesudvar is one of the oldest and most respected wineries in the Tokaj region, with a history dating back to the 16th century. The winery is located in a beautiful historic building that once served as a hunting lodge for Hungarian kings. The setting was stunning, with vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. I enjoyed a delicious meal of authentic regional dishes, perfectly paired with Hímesudvar's finest wines. The staff were knowledgeable and passionate about their wines, and they provided a fascinating insight into the history and production methods of Tokaji. I also learned that Hímesudvar offers cellar tours where you can learn about the history of Tokaj, as well as the local terroir, and how the winemaker creates exquisite wines harmonizing with nature.


Discover Hímesudvar Winery in Tokaj: Experience Hungary's finest wines amidst stunning vineyards and rich cultural heritage.

The Hímesudvar cellar itself is actually located in a building of much history. It was built in the 16th century as a hunting lodge by the then king of Hungary. I was treated to an excellent Tokaj wine tour of the cellar in English without having to book. Ordinarily, advanced booking is required, but I guess this was a slow day. The tour gave a good history of the area and the production of the famous wines. I was humbled by how small an operation some of the cellars have. None of them has the capacity to bottle their wines, and their wine production levels are surprisingly low.

As I savored my last glass of Tokaji at Hímesudvar, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the depths of the cellar labyrinths to the cannonball tales of the Ágyúgolyós ház, every moment had been filled with history, culture, and the unmistakable spirit of Tokaj. This region has a unique microclimate that allows the wine to develop a distinctive taste. I was also reminded of Louis XIV's famous quote, who described Aszú as 'Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum' - the Wine of Kings, King of Wines.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Tokaj ArtWine Galéria és borbemutató terem and Tokaj-Hétszőlő. I am eager to see what new discoveries await me as I continue my solo sojourn in this remarkable wine region. I might even swing by Hímesudvar winery again, this time to visit their bar for a nightcap.

It seems that there are some local events taking place in the region, such as the Tokaj Bubbling - Tokaj Pezsgés!, which is a sparkling event with an extensive program of events, lots of venues around the historic town. It might be something I will check out if I have the time. Also, I saw that the excellent artisan market – Tokaj-Hegyalja Market – takes place every second Sunday of the month at Sárga Borház Restaurant on the Disznókő estate. I am sorry I missed it, but I will try to come back another time to check it out.

I am also thinking of checking out the Witchy weekend, Tarcal 2025, which sounds like a weekend of wine, enchantment and friendship in a sparkling mood! It will be interesting to know more about the historical sources that tell us it was in Tarcal where, in 1100, the Hungarian king Coloman the Learned declared a law prohibiting the persecution of strigae – vampires or mares – because they “do not exist”.

Until then, goodnight from Tokaj!