Solo Escape to Vietnam's Con Dao Islands

Whispers of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a day of deep reflection and sensory delight here in the Con Dao Islands. I find myself constantly moved by the stories etched into this land, a place where beauty and sorrow intertwine in the most profound ways. It was a day of contrasts, from somber historical sites to vibrant culinary experiences, each leaving an indelible mark on my soul.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Infinity Cafe & Restaurant. The cafe is known for its beautiful decor and cool sanctuary vibe. I opted for a traditional Vietnamese coffee and a light pastry, fueling up for the day's explorations. Sipping the strong, sweet coffee, I planned my itinerary, eager to delve into the history of Con Dao.

First on the agenda was the Island Chief Palace, a place that now serves as a museum, but once was the residence for colonial administrators. Walking through its halls, I felt transported back in time, imagining the lives of those who once walked these very floors. The palace, also known as the Grand Palace, was constructed between 1862 and 1876. The architecture was grand, and the exhibits offered a glimpse into Con Dao's past, particularly its role during the French colonial era and the Vietnam War.


Explore the Island Chief Palace, a historical gem in Con Dao, Vietnam, showcasing rich culture, stunning architecture, and captivating stories from the past.
Wandering through the rooms, I absorbed the stories of the 53 Island Lords who lived and worked here over 113 years (1862-1975). It served as the central hub of the prison system, a place where all the ruling apparatus on the island were under the control of the Island Lord. Some Island Lords were known for their cruelty. The Island Chief Palace stands as a testament to the region's rich history and cultural significance. The surrounding gardens offered a serene environment, a stark contrast to the harsh realities of the past.

Sometimes, the most beautiful places carry the heaviest histories.

Leaving the Island Chief Palace, I headed to Sở Lò Vôi, a site that spoke of immense suffering and exploitation. It was built by the French colonialists in 1864. This was one of the most harsh of the 18 forced labor camps established by the French. Here, prisoners were forced to mine coral from the sea and burn it into lime, a process that provided materials for construction on the island.


Explore the serene beauty and rich culture of Sở Lò Vôi, a hidden coastal gem in Bà Rịa - Vũng Tàu, Vietnam, perfect for relaxation and exploration.
The conditions were brutal, with prisoners enduring back-breaking labor, hunger, and disease. The site stands as a reminder of the inhumane treatment suffered by those who resisted colonial rule. I learned that prisoners had to collect coral from the sea, with each month requiring four barges of coral, while another group of 12 prisoners would burn the coral to create lime for construction. The prisoners often worked at night, having to dive into the sea with only a few torches for light.

After a morning filled with historical reflection, my appetite called, and I decided to have lunch at Nhà hàng Thu Tâm. This restaurant is known as one of the largest in Con Dao, specializing in seafood. I indulged in a plate of fresh grilled squid, savoring the flavors of the sea while enjoying the laid-back atmosphere of the restaurant. It was a delightful contrast to the somber morning, a reminder that life, even in a place with a difficult past, continues to offer moments of joy and pleasure.


Discover authentic Vietnamese seafood at Nhà hàng Thu Tâm in Côn Đảo – where freshness meets tradition in every dish.
As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, I made my way to Beach House Restaurant & Cocktails Côn Đảo for a relaxing evening. Though not directly on the beach, this cozy spot had a charm all its own, with a lush, green setting and an inviting atmosphere.


Discover the exquisite flavors of Vietnam at Beach House Restaurant & Cocktails in Côn Đảo, where ocean views meet culinary artistry.
I ordered a cocktail and some light appetizers, settling in to enjoy the sea breeze and the sounds of the island coming alive as night fell. The Beach House is known for its homemade pasta, cappuccinos, and healthy vegan dishes. The restaurant offers a variety of international dishes, including squid tagliatelle and vegan naan sandwich. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring, a chance to reflect on all that I had seen and learned.

The weather in Con Dao in October is generally pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 24°C to 30°C (75°F to 86°F). The humidity is lower, and there are occasional light breezes. However, there can be rain, with an average of 20 rainy days in the month. It's always a good idea to check the forecast before planning outdoor activities.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I made a mental note to visit the Vietnam Heritage Tree and Sở Rẫy tomorrow, continuing my exploration of Con Dao's natural and historical treasures. I also plan to have breakfast at MAY BISTRO, lunch at Quán Cơm Su Su, and dinner at Nhà Hàng Cánh Buồm. And perhaps I'll do some souvenir shopping at Shop Thắng Hướng.

As I walked back, the stars began to pepper the night sky, mirroring the countless stories that this island holds within its heart. It's a place that challenges and inspires, a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit and the enduring power of hope. I'm grateful for the opportunity to be here, to listen to the echoes of the past, and to savor the flavors of the present. It’s moments like these that make me appreciate my decision to move to Berlin and pursue content writing, allowing me to experience and share stories like these.

Tomorrow, I look forward to continuing my exploration, seeking out new perspectives and uncovering more of Con Dao's hidden gems. I am excited to see the Vietnam Heritage Tree and Sở Rẫy tomorrow.

And with that, I bid you goodnight from Con Dao, a place where history whispers on the wind and the sea sings a song of survival. Until tomorrow!