Exploring the Mystical Snaefellsnes Peninsula

A Day of Discovery on Snaefellsnes

Today was a day of gentle exploration and delightful surprises here on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. After several days of traversing lava fields and braving windswept cliffs, Hans and I decided to embrace a slower pace, focusing on the quieter, subtler beauties of this region. It turned out to be exactly what we needed, a soothing balm for our adventurous souls.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Hótel Snaefellsnes. The hotel itself exudes a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the breakfast spread was just perfect to fuel our morning adventures. They had a wonderful selection of freshly baked breads, including some delicious sourdough, alongside homemade jams that tasted of pure Icelandic summer. It reminded me of the simple, wholesome breakfasts I enjoyed growing up in Võru, Estonia. It’s these little touches that really make a place special, don’t you think?


Experience unparalleled comfort at Hótel Snaefellsnes while exploring the breathtaking beauty of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Tranquility by the River

Our first stop was the Dagverðará River. Finding it required a bit of navigation, but that’s part of the fun, isn’t it? As we drove along Route 54, the landscape opened up to reveal a wide, serene river flowing through a valley. The riverbanks were lush with greenery, a stark contrast to the rugged lava fields we had seen earlier in the week.


Explore the breathtaking Dagverðará River, a hidden gem of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, offering stunning landscapes and serene nature experiences.

We parked the car and took a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. The water was crystal clear, reflecting the sky like a mirror. The only sounds were the gentle murmur of the river and the occasional call of a bird. It was incredibly peaceful. I took out my camera, trying to capture the way the light played on the water, the way the wind rustled through the tall grass. I am hoping at least one of the pictures does justice to the tranquility of this hidden gem.

I've always found that water has a calming effect on me. Maybe it's because I grew up near Lake Võrtsjärv in Estonia, but being near a river or the sea just makes me feel grounded. Hans, ever the architect, was fascinated by the way the river had shaped the landscape over time, carving its path through the valley. He even sketched a few ideas in his notebook, inspired by the natural curves and contours.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of settings.

Ascent to Súgandisey Lighthouse

Next on our itinerary was the Súgandisey Island Lighthouse in Stykkishólmur. The town itself is incredibly charming, with colorful houses and a bustling harbor. The lighthouse is perched on a small island, now connected to the mainland by a causeway, making it easily accessible.


Experience the breathtaking views and serene atmosphere at Súgandisey Island Lighthouse, a must-visit attraction in Stykkishólmur, Iceland.

The walk up to the lighthouse was short but steep. Steps have been built into the hillside, making the climb manageable, even for someone like me who is more accustomed to translating than mountain climbing. As we ascended, the views became increasingly stunning. From the top, we could see the entire town of Stykkishólmur, the harbor dotted with boats, and the vast expanse of Breiðafjörður bay stretching out towards the horizon.

The lighthouse itself is a vibrant red, a striking contrast to the blue of the sea and the green of the surrounding landscape. It’s a perfect spot for photography, and I spent a good half-hour snapping pictures from every angle. Hans, meanwhile, was busy chatting with a local who was tending to the lighthouse. He learned that the lighthouse was originally built in 1948 and has been guiding ships through the bay ever since.

Standing there, with the wind in my hair and the panoramic view before me, I felt a deep sense of contentment. It was one of those moments when you realize that all the planning and preparation were worth it, that you are exactly where you are supposed to be. I even managed to spot a white-tailed eagle soaring above us. It was a magical moment, a reminder of the wild beauty that surrounds us here in Iceland.

A Culinary Exploration of Stykkishólmur

After our lighthouse adventure, we were both feeling rather peckish, so we decided to explore the culinary offerings of Stykkishólmur. For lunch, we opted for Stapinn, a family-run restaurant in Arnarstapi, a short drive from Stykkishólmur. The restaurant had a cozy, inviting atmosphere, and the menu featured a variety of local specialties. Hans ordered the fish and chips, while I decided to try the traditional Icelandic lamb soup. Both were absolutely delicious, hearty and flavorful, perfect for a chilly August day.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Stapinn in Arnarstapi - where local flavors meet stunning coastal views.

Later in the afternoon, after a brief rest at our guesthouse, we ventured out again for a pre-dinner drink. We stumbled upon Skipper Restaurant, a charming spot with a lively atmosphere. Hans enjoyed a local Icelandic beer, while I opted for a glass of wine. The bar was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the convivial atmosphere.


Experience the flavors of Iceland at Skipper Restaurant in Stykkishólmur, where fresh seafood meets local charm in a stunning setting.

For dinner, we had made reservations at Bjargarsteinn Mathús in Borgarnes, a restaurant known for its innovative approach to Icelandic cuisine. The restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored building dating back to 1908, adding to its charm. The ambiance was warm and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly and attentive.


Discover Bjargarsteinn Mathús: A delightful dining experience showcasing local flavors amidst breathtaking views in Grundarfjörður, Iceland.

We started with a selection of appetizers, including smoked salmon and pickled herring, all sourced from local producers. For our main courses, Hans chose the pan-seared cod, while I opted for the grilled lamb. Both dishes were cooked to perfection, showcasing the fresh, high-quality ingredients. The flavors were complex and nuanced, a testament to the chef's skill and creativity.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the tranquil beauty of the Dagverðará River to the panoramic views from the Súgandisey Lighthouse, it had been a day filled with simple pleasures and unexpected discoveries. It reminded me of why I love to travel, to explore new places, to experience different cultures, and to connect with the natural world.

Looking Ahead

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Eldborg Crater Trailhead and Matadifjall [If you are super strapped for time you could visit Snæfellsnes peninsula in a day but I would really recommend spending a night or two in order to fit everything in and enjoy this less visited area of Iceland]. I’ve heard that the hike to the crater is challenging but rewarding, with stunning views of the surrounding landscape. We also plan to stop by Bónus to stock up on some snacks for our hike. I am hoping to find some Skyr, a traditional Icelandic yogurt, which I have developed quite a fondness for.

As I write this, I am feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the beauty and wonder of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It’s a place that has captured my heart, a place that I know I will never forget. And I am excited to share more of our adventures with you in the days to come.

The weather in August here has been quite mild, with temperatures ranging from 49°F to 54°F. There's been a bit of rain, but mostly light showers. I am glad I packed layers, as the wind can make it feel cooler than it actually is.

Before signing off for the night, I wanted to share a little something I read today. It seems fitting after a day of exploring Iceland’s natural beauty:

To walk in nature is to witness a thousand miracles.

Until tomorrow, dear readers!