A Solo Historical Adventure in Nafplio, Greece

A Day of Fortresses and Worry Beads

The day began with a lovely breakfast at Kalimera. The rustic decor and the aroma of freshly baked pies made it a perfect start. I savored a traditional Greek pie with spinach and feta, accompanied by a strong, aromatic Greek coffee. It was just the fuel I needed for a day of exploration.

My first stop was the Bourtzi Fortress. As I approached the harbor, the fortress stood proudly in the distance, a testament to Nafplio's rich maritime history. The weather in Nafplio in November is moderately chilly and breezy, with temperatures ranging from 11 to 17°C. The sky was clear, and the sea breeze was refreshing as I boarded a small boat to cross over to the island.


Explore the historic Bourtzi Fortress in Nafplio, a captivating island stronghold offering stunning views and a glimpse into Greece's rich past.

The boat ride itself was a treat, offering stunning panoramic views of Nafplio. I could see the Palamidi Fortress perched atop the hill and the sprawling town with its terracotta rooftops. As we neared Bourtzi, its imposing stone walls rose from the water, evoking a sense of timelessness.

Stepping onto the island, I was immediately transported back in time. Built by the Venetians in 1473, Bourtzi was initially constructed to protect the city from pirate raids. Over the centuries, it has served many roles, from a fortress to a residence for executioners, and even a hotel. I walked through the ancient stone corridors, imagining the soldiers who once stood guard here. The architecture, with its irregular hexagon shape and strategically placed cannons, was a marvel to behold.

I climbed to the top of the fortress, where the views were even more breathtaking. The Argolic Gulf stretched out before me, shimmering in the sunlight. I could see the outline of distant mountains and the smaller islands dotting the horizon. It was easy to understand why the Venetians chose this location for a fortress; it offered a commanding view of the sea.

Wandering through the fortress, I learned about its history during the Greek Revolution. In 1822, Greek warriors captured Bourtzi and used it to bombard the Palamidi and Acronauplia fortresses, which were then under Turkish rule. The fortress played a crucial role in the liberation of Nafplio, a pivotal moment in Greek history.

After exploring every nook and cranny of Bourtzi, I took the boat back to the mainland, my mind still filled with images of the fortress and its storied past. It was time for lunch, and I was eager to try Savouras, a seafood restaurant recommended for its fresh catches and traditional Greek flavors.


Experience authentic Greek seafood at Savouras in Nafplio, where fresh flavors meet stunning waterfront views.

Savouras was a delightful experience. The restaurant, family-run since 1841, had an inviting atmosphere with outdoor seating overlooking the marina. I ordered the grilled squid and a portion of the tuna tartare, both of which were incredibly fresh and flavorful. The squid was perfectly cooked, tender and slightly smoky, while the tuna tartare was a delightful explosion of flavors, enhanced by the gentle sea breeze.

As I savored my meal, I observed the locals and tourists alike enjoying the relaxed ambiance of the restaurant. It was a perfect spot to soak in the charm of Nafplio and appreciate its coastal beauty. The staff were friendly and attentive, adding to the overall pleasant experience.

With a satisfied appetite, I set off to my next destination: the Komboloi Museum. Tucked away in a charming 18th-century mansion in the Old Town, the museum was a unique and fascinating place dedicated to the art of worry beads.


Discover the fascinating world of Greek worry beads at Nafplio's Komboloi Museum, a unique cultural experience in the heart of the old town.

As I entered the museum, I was greeted by strands of colorful beads hanging from the ceiling, creating a vibrant and whimsical atmosphere. The museum's owner, Aris Evangelinos, has been collecting rosaries and prayer beads for over 20 years, and his passion for the art was evident in every display.

The museum showcased a wide variety of worry beads from different cultures and religions. There were Hindu, Buddhist, Muslim, and Christian rosaries, each with its own unique design and significance. The beads were made from a variety of materials, including amber, coral, wood, silver, and crystal.

The Komboloi Museum is a testament to the human desire for comfort, reflection, and connection to something greater than oneself.

I learned that worry beads are not just decorative objects; they are tools for relaxation, meditation, and contemplation. The act of passing the beads through one's fingers can be calming and therapeutic, helping to reduce stress and anxiety. In Greece, the komboloi has a long history and is often seen as a symbol of masculinity and status.

After exploring the museum's collection, I visited the workshop on the ground floor, where I watched artisans crafting worry beads by hand. It was fascinating to see the skill and precision involved in creating these intricate objects. I even purchased a komboloi for myself, a small string of amber beads that I hoped would bring me peace and tranquility.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to have dinner at Alaloum restaurant. It was a perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery. The restaurant is known for its traditional Greek cuisine with a creative twist and its cozy atmosphere. I enjoyed a delicious moussaka and a glass of local wine, savoring the flavors of Greece as the sun set over Nafplio.


Experience authentic Greek cuisine at Alaloum Restaurant in Nafplio – where tradition meets flavor in a cozy setting.

Before heading back to the Leto Nuevo Hotel, I stopped by Alkioni wine bar & cellar for a nightcap. The cozy ambiance and the extensive selection of Greek wines made it an ideal spot to unwind. I sampled a local red wine, chatting with the friendly staff and soaking in the relaxed atmosphere. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of Greece at Alkioni Wine Bar & Cellar, where local wines and culinary delights come together in a charming setting.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Fortress of Akronauplía and Syntagma Square. I'm also looking forward to visiting the Nafplia Bookstore. Each day here reveals a new layer of history and charm, and I am excited to see what tomorrow brings.

Nafplio in November is proving to be a truly enriching experience. The weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the town exudes a sense of timeless beauty. I am grateful for the opportunity to explore this historical gem and share my experiences with you.

Until tomorrow,

Maria