Exploring the Rich Heritage of Fes with Friends

A Step Back in Time

Fes, a city I've long dreamt of visiting, finally welcomed Hans, my friends and me with open arms. As an archivist, I've spent countless hours poring over historical documents, but nothing compares to experiencing history firsthand. Today, on our first day, we dove headfirst into the heart of Fes, the Fes El Bali. It was like stepping into a living, breathing museum, a place where time seems to stand still. As someone who meticulously preserves the past, I was eager to experience this UNESCO World Heritage site and share its stories.


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.

Our arrival in Fes was seamless, and after a brief taxi ride, we found ourselves at the edge of the medina, ready to plunge into its depths. The air was thick with the scent of spices, leather, and the sweet aroma of mint tea – a sensory overload in the best possible way. Hans, ever the pragmatist, checked his map repeatedly, while our friends were already snapping photos, eager to capture the vibrant chaos around us. I felt a thrill of anticipation, a sense of adventure that only a new and historically rich place can inspire. My camera was at the ready, my comfortable walking shoes firmly laced, and my heart open to the wonders that awaited.

We began our exploration with Fes El Bali, the ancient walled medina. The sheer scale of it was astounding. It's easy to see why it's considered one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. The narrow, winding alleyways, some barely wide enough for two people to pass, created a labyrinthine network that begged to be explored. As someone used to the orderly streets of Berlin, this was a delightful change of pace. The medina is a vibrant tapestry of life, where artisans practice age-old crafts, merchants hawk their wares, and children play in the narrow passageways. It felt like stepping back in time, a truly immersive experience that transported me centuries into the past.

To walk through the Fes El Bali is to walk through a living history book, where every corner holds a story and every doorway whispers secrets of the past.

Our first stop within the medina was the magnificent Bou Inania Madrasa. This 14th-century theological college is a stunning example of Marinid architecture. Commissioned by Sultan Abu Inan Faris, the madrasa is celebrated for its intricate design, featuring exquisite tilework, elaborate wood carvings, and detailed stucco work. As we stepped inside, the hustle and bustle of the medina faded away, replaced by an atmosphere of serene contemplation. The central courtyard, with its marble fountain and meticulously decorated walls, was a sight to behold. I was particularly struck by the geometric patterns and the Arabic calligraphy that adorned the walls, each telling a story of faith and learning. It was fascinating to learn that the madrasa functioned as both a religious school and a mosque, a testament to its central role in the intellectual and spiritual life of Fes. The fact that it is one of the few religious places in Morocco accessible to non-Islamic visitors made the experience even more special.


Explore the architectural beauty and cultural significance of Bou Inania Madrasa, an essential stop in the historic city of Fes, Morocco.

Leaving the Bou Inania Madrasa, we continued our journey through the medina, eventually arriving at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century fondouk, or caravanserai, the museum is a tribute to Morocco's rich woodworking heritage. As a lover of history and craftsmanship, I was eager to explore its collection. The museum showcases a wide array of wooden artifacts, from intricately carved doors and screens to ornate musical instruments and traditional tools. Each piece told a story of the skill, creativity, and cultural identity of Moroccan artisans. I was particularly fascinated by the exhibits that highlighted the different types of wood used in Moroccan woodworking, such as cedar from the Middle Atlas and thuya, each prized for its unique qualities and characteristics. The museum not only celebrated the artistry of Moroccan woodcraft but also provided insights into the social and economic contexts that shaped these crafts. It was a wonderful opportunity to appreciate the beauty and functionality of these objects, and to learn about the traditions that have been passed down through generations.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.

After immersing ourselves in the beauty of the Nejjarine Museum, it was time for a well-deserved lunch. We made our way to Cafe Clock, a Fez icon known for its fusion dishes and vibrant atmosphere. Located in a restored building in the upper reaches of the medina, the cafe offered a welcome respite from the bustling streets. As we climbed the stairs to the upper terraces, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the city. The menu was a delightful mix of Moroccan and international flavors, with options to please every palate. Hans, ever adventurous, opted for the camel burger, while I chose a traditional tagine. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was lively and welcoming. It was the perfect place to relax, recharge, and soak in the energy of Fes.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

For lunch, we ventured to The Ruined Garden, a restaurant set in the atmospheric ruins of a courtyard house. The setting was truly unique, with tables nestled among lush greenery and crumbling walls. It felt like dining in a secret garden, a hidden oasis in the heart of the medina. The menu featured modern Moroccan cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, local produce. I savored a delicious chicken pastilla, while Hans enjoyed a slow-cooked lamb dish. The Ruined Garden was a feast for the senses, a place where history, nature, and culinary artistry came together in perfect harmony. It was easy to see why this restaurant is a favorite among locals and travelers alike.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting garden setting at The Ruined Garden in Fes.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to indulge in some retail therapy. Our destination was Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques, a family-run shop known for its exquisite collection of Berber carpets and antique treasures. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns. The shop was filled with carpets of all shapes and sizes, each with its own unique story to tell. The owner, a charming and knowledgeable man, guided us through the collection, explaining the different tribal designs and weaving techniques. I was particularly drawn to the Beni Ouarain carpets, with their distinctive geometric patterns and soft, natural wool. While I resisted the urge to buy a carpet (for now), I did purchase a beautiful antique Berber necklace, a tangible reminder of our time in Fes. It was fascinating to learn about the history and craftsmanship behind each piece, and to appreciate the artistry of the local weavers and artisans. Coin Berbere was more than just a shop; it was a cultural experience, a place where we could connect with the traditions and heritage of Morocco.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the medina, we made our way to Restaurant Dar Hatim for dinner. This family-run restaurant, located in a beautifully decorated home, offered a truly authentic Moroccan dining experience. We were warmly welcomed by the owners, who treated us like honored guests. The menu featured traditional Moroccan dishes, prepared with love and care. I savored a delicious lamb tagine, while Hans opted for a flavorful couscous dish. The food was exquisite, and the atmosphere was intimate and inviting. It felt like dining in a private home, a world away from the bustling streets of the medina. Restaurant Dar Hatim was a highlight of our day, a culinary journey that delighted our senses and warmed our hearts.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Our first day in Fes was an unforgettable experience, a journey through time and culture that left us in awe of this ancient city. From the labyrinthine alleyways of Fes El Bali to the magnificent Bou Inania Madrasa and the exquisite Nejjarine Museum, every moment was filled with wonder and discovery. As I reflect on our adventures, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to explore this remarkable place. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings, as we plan to visit Al Attarine Madrasa, Chouara Tannery and Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, before ending the day at Mezzanine bar.

As we prepare for our second day, I can't help but feel a sense of anticipation. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Al Attarine Madrasa, another architectural gem, and witness the age-old tradition of leather tanning at the Chouara Tannery. We'll also pay our respects at the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, a sacred site for Moroccans. And, to cap off the day, we'll unwind at Mezzanine, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. I'm eager to delve deeper into the history and culture of Fes, and to share my experiences with you, dear readers. Until then, I bid you goodnight from this magical city.