Exploring the Rich Heritage of Fes with Friends

Fez Unveiled: A Day of Discovery

Today was a sensory explosion, a deep dive into the heart of Fes that left me breathless and humbled. It wasn't just about seeing the sights; it was about feeling the city's pulse, hearing its whispers, and breathing in its ancient soul. From the intricate beauty of a madrasa to the pungent reality of a tannery and the serene reverence of a mausoleum, Fes revealed layers of history and culture that I will carry with me long after I leave.

Our day began, after a lovely breakfast at Nagham Cafe, with a visit to the Al Attarine Madrasa. I must say, the orange salads were delicious and gave us the energy we needed for the day.

Al Attarine Madrasa: A Jewel of Islamic Art

The Al Attarine Madrasa, a jewel of Marinid architecture, was our first stop. It was a short walk from our riad, and as we stepped inside, the world outside faded away. The madrasa is a sanctuary of intricate beauty. Every surface is adorned with elaborate carvings, vibrant mosaics, and delicate stucco work. The central courtyard, with its tranquil fountain, invites quiet contemplation. I found myself lost in the details, tracing the arabesques with my eyes and marveling at the skill of the artisans who created this masterpiece centuries ago. It reminded me of the meticulous detail I pour into my own work as an archivist, preserving fragments of the past for future generations.

The beauty of Al Attarine Madrasa is not just in its intricate designs but in the sense of peace and timelessness it evokes, a testament to the enduring power of art and faith.

Explore the enchanting Al Attarine Madrasa, a historical landmark in Fes showcasing intricate Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

I thought of Hans, who would have appreciated the geometric precision and the mathematical harmony of the designs. He always had an eye for patterns, whether in code or in architecture. As I wandered through the student rooms on the upper floor, I imagined the young scholars who once lived and studied here, dedicating their lives to learning and faith. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the rich intellectual and spiritual heritage of this city.

Chouara Tannery: An Assault on the Senses

From the serene beauty of the madrasa, we plunged into the chaotic reality of the Chouara Tannery. The air here is thick with the pungent odor of hides, dyes, and… well, let’s just say it’s an experience. As we approached, we were offered sprigs of mint, which I gratefully accepted. The mint helped a little, but nothing could fully mask the intensity of the smell. The tannery is a vast, open-air complex of stone vessels filled with colorful dyes. Workers, knee-deep in the vats, were rhythmically stirring and soaking the hides, transforming them into leather using techniques that have remained unchanged for centuries. It was a scene straight out of the Middle Ages, a raw and visceral display of traditional craftsmanship. I was fascinated by the process, by the sheer physicality of the work, and by the knowledge that these methods have been passed down through generations. The vibrant colors of the dyes – ochre, indigo, saffron – were a stark contrast to the grim reality of the work. I watched as men hauled heavy hides, their faces etched with years of labor, and I felt a profound respect for their skill and resilience. The Chouara Tannery is not for the faint of heart, but it is an unforgettable glimpse into the heart of Fes.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

I couldn't help but think of the historical documents I work with in Berlin, carefully preserved behind glass. Here, history was alive, raw, and unfiltered. It was a stark reminder that the past is not always neat and tidy; it can be messy, smelly, and challenging, but it is always real.

Lunch at Le Tarbouche

After the intensity of the tannery, we were ready for a break, and thankfully, it was time for lunch at Le Tarbouche. This cozy restaurant, with its wood interiors, offered a welcome respite from the bustling medina. We sat outside, enjoying the lively atmosphere. I opted for the Tagine de Kebab, veal marinated in onion and paprika sauce. The meat was incredibly tender, and the sauce was bursting with flavor. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, and it gave us the energy we needed for the afternoon.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Le Tarbouche in Fes – where tradition meets culinary delight.

Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II: A Place of Pilgrimage

Our final stop of the day was the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the founder of Fes and one of Morocco's most revered saints. The mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage, a sanctuary of peace and spirituality. As non-Muslims, we could not enter the inner sanctum, but we could still appreciate the beauty of the architecture and the atmosphere of reverence that permeated the area. The streets around the mausoleum were filled with pilgrims, many seeking blessings or offering prayers. I watched as women, their faces filled with hope, approached the entrance, and I felt a sense of connection to their faith and devotion. The mausoleum is a reminder of the deep spiritual roots of this city, a place where tradition and belief are still very much alive.

It's impossible not to be moved by the palpable faith surrounding Moulay Idriss II. The mausoleum stands as a testament to his enduring legacy and the spiritual heart of Fes.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

The area surrounding the mausoleum, known as the 'Sacred District', was particularly interesting. The wooden bars served as a historical reminder, once used to keep out non-Muslims and animals. It was a tangible representation of the city's layered past.

Evening Reflections at Mezzanine

As the sun began to set, we sought refuge at Mezzanine, a bar known for its tranquil ambiance and modern decor. It provided the ideal environment for reflecting on the day's experiences. Over a glass of local beer, Hans and I discussed the sights, sounds, and smells that had filled our senses. The Al Attarine Madrasa's serene beauty, the Chouara Tannery's visceral reality, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II's spiritual aura had all left indelible marks on our souls. The day had been a profound lesson in history, culture, and the enduring power of tradition.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

The Mezzanine was the perfect place to digest the day. The tapas were tasty, and the atmosphere was relaxed. It was a great way to unwind and prepare for the evening ahead.

Before dinner, we took a moment to stroll through Jardin Jnan Sbil, a nearby garden. The tranquil setting provided a welcome contrast to the bustling medina, and it was a lovely way to end the day.

For dinner, we decided to try Nur, drawn by its reputation for innovative Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant's stylish interior was a stark contrast to the traditional medina, and the tasting menu was a culinary adventure. Each dish was a work of art, a fusion of Moroccan flavors and modern techniques. The experience was both exciting and thought-provoking, a reminder that tradition and innovation can coexist in beautiful harmony.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

Tomorrow, our itinerary includes the Palais Mnebhi, the Andalusian Mosque, and the Borj Nord Museum. I am excited to delve deeper into the history and culture of Fes, and I am grateful for the opportunity to share my experiences with you.

As I sit here now, writing in my journal, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. Fes is a city that challenges and inspires, a place where the past is always present and the future is full of possibilities. I am so glad that I came here with my friends, and I look forward to discovering what tomorrow will bring.

I am reminded of a quote by Ibn Battuta, the great Moroccan traveler:

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.

And so, I continue my journey, eager to see what stories Fes has yet to reveal.

Tonight, I am grateful for the opportunity to experience this city with my friends. Traveling with others allows for shared experiences and spontaneous adventures, which is exactly what I look forward to. I am also grateful for the chance to share my experiences with you, my readers. Your comments and feedback mean the world to me, and I am so glad that you are joining me on this journey.

Tomorrow, we continue our exploration of Fes, with plans to visit the Palais Mnebhi, the Andalusian Mosque, and the Borj Nord Museum. I am excited to delve deeper into the history and culture of this fascinating city, and I look forward to sharing my experiences with you. Until then, good night from Fes!

P.S. I almost forgot! I did forget to pack my travel adapter, which made charging my camera a bit tricky. Lesson learned: always double-check your packing list!