Exploring the Mystique of Namibia's Skeleton Coast

A Symphony of Senses at Cape Cross

Today was an assault on the senses, in the best possible way. The Skeleton Coast continues to surprise and challenge my expectations. It's a land of stark contrasts, where the harshness of the desert meets the abundance of the ocean. Today's adventure took us to Cape Cross, a place teeming with life and history, a place that will forever be etched in my memory.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Village Cafe in Swakopmund. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air, a welcome start to what promised to be a long day. I opted for a traditional Slovenian breakfast – *štruklji* with a side of *žitni kruh* – a little taste of home to fuel my Namibian adventure. The cafe itself was a cozy haven, a vibrant mix of locals and tourists all eager to start their day. It reminded me of the cafes Ana and I used to frequent in Ljubljana during our university days, filled with lively chatter and the promise of new experiences. It’s always the simple things, like a good cup of coffee and a familiar meal, that ground me, no matter how far from home I roam. It's a philosophy I try to instill in Luka as well – find comfort in the small things, and you'll find home wherever you go.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we hit the road, heading north towards Cape Cross. The landscape transformed gradually, the vibrant town of Swakopmund giving way to the desolate beauty of the Skeleton Coast. The drive itself was an experience, the vast expanse of the desert stretching out on either side, meeting the endless blue of the Atlantic.

Our first stop was the Cape Cross Seal Reserve. As we approached, the air grew thick with a pungent, fishy odor – a clear indication of what awaited us. I knew about the seals, of course, but nothing could have prepared me for the sheer scale of the colony. Thousands upon thousands of Cape fur seals sprawled across the rocks, a writhing, barking mass of life. The sound was deafening, a cacophony of barks, grunts, and cries that echoed across the coastline.


Experience the captivating beauty of Cape Cross Seal Reserve, where nature and wildlife come together in a stunning coastal setting.

The sheer scale of life at Cape Cross is a humbling reminder of nature's power and resilience.

It was overwhelming, a sensory overload that both repelled and fascinated me. I found myself mesmerized by the chaos, the constant movement, the raw energy of the colony. Mothers nursed their pups, young seals played in the surf, and older seals basked in the sun, seemingly oblivious to the constant commotion. I tried to imagine what Luka would think of this place. He is so interested in animals, I am sure he would love to see this. I made a mental note to buy him a book about seals when I get back to Zurich.

Amidst the seals, we found the historical landmark that gives the area its name: the Cape Cross. A replica of the *padrão* erected by Portuguese explorer Diogo Cão in 1486, it stands as a testament to early European exploration. It was a sobering reminder of the area's history, a history marked by both discovery and exploitation. I couldn't help but reflect on the impact of European colonization on this land, the legacy of which is still felt today. It is important to remember the past, both the good and the bad, to learn from it and to build a better future.

Leaving the Seal Reserve, we headed to Cape Cross Gate and then back south, stopping for lunch at Ernis Bistro. It was a welcome respite from the sensory overload of the seal colony, a chance to relax and recharge. The bistro was a charming oasis, a cozy space filled with the aroma of Namibian cuisine. I opted for a traditional Namibian dish – *Kapana* with *Mahangu* – a flavorful combination of grilled beef and millet porridge. It was a hearty and satisfying meal, a true taste of Namibia. I must remember to ask Ana to try to make this when we get back to Zurich.


Discover authentic Namibian flavors at Ernis Bistro in Gobabis - where culinary tradition meets modern dining.

I chatted with the owner of the bistro, a friendly woman who shared stories about the region and its people. She spoke of the challenges of living in such a remote and harsh environment, but also of the beauty and resilience of the Namibian spirit. It was a reminder that even in the most desolate of places, life finds a way to thrive. Her words resonated deeply with me, a reminder of the human capacity for adaptation and perseverance.

Before heading back to Swakopmund, we made a stop at The Made in Namibia Collection. I wanted to find a souvenir, something that would remind me of this incredible journey. The shop was a treasure trove of Namibian crafts, from intricate wood carvings to colorful textiles. I ended up buying a small wooden carving of a gemsbok, a symbol of Namibia's wildlife and resilience. I also picked up a few small gifts for Ana and Luka, a way to share my experience with them.


Discover authentic Namibian crafts, unique souvenirs, and local artistry at The Made in Namibia Collection in Swakopmund.

As the sun began to set, we started our drive back to Swakopmund. The landscape was bathed in a warm, golden light, transforming the desert into a magical realm. I watched in awe as the colors shifted and changed, the sky ablaze with hues of orange, pink, and purple. It was a breathtaking sight, a perfect end to a day filled with wonder and discovery.

Back in Swakopmund, we decided to have dinner at Kücki's Pub. The pub was a lively establishment, filled with locals and tourists alike. The atmosphere was jovial and relaxed, a perfect place to unwind after a long day. I ordered a grilled kabeljou, a local fish, and a pint of Namibian beer. The fish was fresh and flavorful, a true taste of the Atlantic. The beer was cold and refreshing, a perfect complement to the meal.


Experience the vibrant atmosphere at Kücki's Pub in Swakopmund - your destination for delicious food and refreshing drinks.

Kücki's Pub, with its German-Namibian atmosphere, reminded me of some of the *gostilnas* back in Slovenia – the hearty food, the local beer, the sense of community. It's funny how travel can make you appreciate the familiar, how it can highlight the common threads that connect us all, no matter where we come from.

As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. Today was an incredible day, a day that challenged my senses, expanded my horizons, and deepened my appreciation for the beauty and resilience of this planet. The Skeleton Coast continues to surprise and inspire me, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings, when we visit the Shipwreck Lodge [ITINERARY OF TOMORROW]. I'm particularly interested in exploring the coastal scenery and learning more about the shipwrecks that dot this coastline. Perhaps we'll even venture out to MYNT Nightclub and Lounge for a nightcap [ITINERARY OF TOMORROW].

Tomorrow, we will have breakfast at Swakopmund Brauhaus and lunch at Anchors Waterfront Restaurant [ITINERARY OF TOMORROW]. We are also planning to have dinner at The Stellenbosch Wine Bar and Bistro [ITINERARY OF TOMORROW].

The Skeleton Coast is a land of contrasts, a place where the harshness of the desert meets the abundance of the ocean. It is a place that challenges and inspires, a place that will forever be etched in my memory.