Exploring Friuli-Venezia Giulia: A Family Adventure in Italy

A Day of Whispers from the Past & Nature's Embrace

Today was a day of contrasts, a beautiful blend of history and nature that truly captured the essence of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. From exploring the ancient walls of Castello Savorgnan di Brazzà to immersing ourselves in the serene beauty of Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino, it was a day filled with discoveries and moments of quiet reflection.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Al Dolcenero. David and Emily both enjoyed the pastries, while I opted for a simple cappuccino to savor the rich Italian coffee. Al Dolcenero is known as a *prosciutteria* with a focus on San Daniele cured ham, and while we didn't indulge in the ham this early in the morning, we did make a mental note to return. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the Castello Savorgnan di Brazzà.
As we approached the Castello Savorgnan di Brazzà, I was immediately struck by its imposing presence. The castle has a rich history, dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries, and has been owned by the Savorgnan family throughout the centuries. The estate, originally known as Braitan, is believed to be included in the donation of 983 by Emperor Otto II to the Patriarch Rodoaldo. Walking through the grounds, I could almost hear the echoes of the past, imagining the lives of those who had walked these same paths centuries ago.
The castle's architecture is a fascinating mix of styles, reflecting its long and varied history. It served as the northern outpost of the Republic of Venice for centuries. In 1917, the villa was accidentally set on fire by the Austrian army during World War I and was rebuilt in 1920 by the Palladian architect Provino Valle. During the Second World War, it was occupied by Nazi forces and later by the Allies. Today, the estate is owned by Corrado Pirzio-Biroli and Cécile Cornet d'Elzius and follows the Habitat-Brazzà Project to improve agriculture and the environment.
One of the most interesting stories associated with Castello Savorgnan di Brazzà is its connection to the tale of Romeo and Juliet. According to recent studies, this castle was the real setting for the story of Juliet (Lucina Savorgnan), written by the 17th-century poet Luigi da Porto. It's fascinating to think that such a timeless love story could have its roots in this very place.
The surrounding park, created over a century ago by Cora Slocomb, the American wife of Detalmo di Brazzà, is a beautiful space to wander and reflect. I took a moment to appreciate the tranquility of the gardens, imagining Cora strolling through the same paths so long ago. The park features an English Rose Garden and a variety of wildlife. The castle has hosted kings, governors, ambassadors, writers, and artists.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quietest of places.

After immersing ourselves in the history of Castello Savorgnan di Brazzà, we drove to the Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino. The reserve covers about 500 hectares between Forgaria nel Friuli and Trasaghis. The contrast between the man-made castle and the untouched natural beauty of the reserve was striking, yet both held a unique charm.
The Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino is a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The lake itself is a small body of clear, deep blue water, and the surrounding area is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna. The reserve is known for its griffon vultures, which were reintroduced to the region in the 1980s. Today, the colony has about 150 griffons in winter and over 200 in spring and summer.
We spent the afternoon exploring the reserve, following the well-marked trails and keeping an eye out for the local wildlife. While David and Emily were eager to spot the griffon vultures, I was more interested in the smaller birds and the plant life. The area is home to various reptiles, including the horn-nosed viper, the slow-worm, and the Aesculapian snake. Bird species include herons, ducks, gulls, woodlarks, and ortolan buntings. The limestone cliffs provide shelter for ravens and eagle owls.
We visited several observation points, hoping to catch a glimpse of the griffons in flight. Although we didn't see any up close, we did spot several circling in the distance, their impressive wingspans silhouetted against the sky. Other large birds in the area include the Egyptian vulture, the cinereous vulture, the golden eagle, the red kite, and the black kite.
The reserve is located on a major migration route, so many migratory species appear during the spring and autumn. It is also home to the alpine shrew, which reaches one of its European altitudinal limits here. Mammals in the area include hedgehogs, dormice, squirrels, foxes, badgers, and roe deer.
Before leaving the Riserva Naturale Regionale del Lago di Cornino, we stopped by the visitor center to learn more about the conservation efforts and the local ecosystem. It was inspiring to see the work being done to protect this unique environment and to educate visitors about its importance.
As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Ristorante Al Castello for dinner. The restaurant is located in Artegna, and it offered a warm and inviting atmosphere. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties, savoring the flavors of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The restaurant has a terrace and serves local cuisine.
Before heading back, I wanted to find a small token to remember our time in Forgaria nel Friuli. Luckily, I remembered seeing a shop called sapone artigianale friuli venezia giulia/I Profumi del Bosco listed in our itinerary. Although the shop is actually located in Venzone, I was delighted to discover that they had a stand at a local market in Forgaria nel Friuli. I Profumi del Bosco is known for its artisanal soaps, crafted with traditional methods and natural ingredients. I purchased a few bars of their handmade soap, infused with local herbs and flowers, as a fragrant reminder of our day of exploration. The soaps are made with love in Venzone, Friuli Venezia Giulia. The shop has been in business since 1999.
Each soap is crafted with care, using traditional methods and natural ingredients that are gentle on the skin. I chose a lingotto of natural handmade soap with rose and shea butter. The Prime Carezze soap with rice starch and white musk has calming and regenerating properties. The soaps are made using a hot process and contain natural ingredients.
Reflecting on the day, I realized how much I appreciate these opportunities to connect with both history and nature. Friuli-Venezia Giulia has a way of weaving together the past and present, creating a rich tapestry of experiences that I will always treasure.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Crosis waterfall and the charming village of Fagagna. I'm looking forward to another day of adventure and discovery in this beautiful region of Italy. Perhaps we'll find a cozy bar, like Bar Al Got, to relax in the evening.
Unfortunately, I didn't find any local events taking place today in Forgaria nel Friuli. However, there are always plenty of cultural and natural attractions to explore.