Exploring the Untamed Wilderness of Iceland's Hornstrandir

Whispers of Winter in the Westfjords

Today was a testament to Iceland's ever-changing moods, a dance between the serene beauty of Stórurðarlundur and the commanding presence of Drangajökull. The Westfjords, in their November attire, offered a stark yet captivating landscape that both David and I were eager to explore. It's days like these that remind me why I traded the familiar comforts of Stratford for the unpredictable allure of travel.


Discover the tranquility of Stórurðarlundur, a serene park in Ísafjörður, perfect for nature walks and family picnics amidst stunning Icelandic landscapes.

Our day began in Ísafjörður, where we enjoyed a hearty breakfast at Hamraborg ehf. The diner was bustling with locals and fellow travelers, all fueling up for their respective adventures. I opted for a classic bacon cheeseburger, while David chose the ham and cheese pizza. It was a simple, satisfying meal that provided the perfect start to our day.

After breakfast, we decided to visit Gjafaland, a local shop in Hólmavík. I was hoping to find a small, unique souvenir to remind me of our journey, but unfortunately, I didn't find anything that captured my attention. However, it was still nice to support a local business and browse the selection of Icelandic goods.

Our first major stop was Stórurðarlundur, a park known for its natural beauty and tranquil environment. Even in November, the park held a certain charm. The well-maintained paths meandered through scenic viewpoints, offering breathtaking vistas of the surrounding mountains and the fjord. Though the vibrant flora was subdued in the late autumn chill, the landscape still held a serene, almost ethereal quality. We took our time, breathing in the crisp air and capturing the stunning views with my camera.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quietest corners of the world.

Next on our itinerary was Drangajökull útsýnisstaður, a viewpoint offering panoramic views of the Drangajökull glacier. The drive itself was an adventure, with winding roads and dramatic landscapes unfolding at every turn. As we ascended, the weather began to shift. The clear skies gave way to swirling clouds, and a biting wind picked up, reminding us that winter was indeed on its way.


Discover breathtaking views at Drangajökull Observation Deck, a serene escape in Iceland's stunning Westfjords, perfect for nature lovers and photographers.

Reaching the viewpoint, we were met with a scene of raw, untamed beauty. The Drangajökull glacier loomed in the distance, its icy peaks shrouded in mist. The wind howled around us, carrying with it the scent of snow and the echoes of the wild. Despite the cold, we stood in awe, mesmerized by the sheer power and majesty of the landscape. It was a moment that made me feel incredibly small yet profoundly connected to the natural world.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hólmavík, where we had dinner reservations at Hópið. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, a welcome respite from the blustery weather outside. I savored a traditional Icelandic dish of lamb, while David opted for the fresh fish of the day. The meal was hearty and delicious, a perfect way to end our day of exploration.

Before heading back to our campsite, we stopped by Café Riis Hólmavík - Restaurant - Pizzeria & Bar for a nightcap. The café, housed in Hólmavík's oldest building, exuded a cozy, Parisian-inspired atmosphere. We enjoyed a couple of Galdur lagers, brewed locally, and reflected on the day's adventures. The café seemed to be a hub for the local community, with people chatting and laughing, adding to the warm and welcoming ambiance.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Djúpavík. I am eager to see what this remote village has to offer. As I write this, huddled in our tent, the wind continues to howl outside. But inside, I feel a sense of warmth and contentment. Today was a reminder that the most rewarding travel experiences often come with a bit of discomfort, a willingness to embrace the unexpected, and an open heart to the beauty that surrounds us. Even though I forgot to pack a solar charger and extra memory cards, I am glad that I get to experience this with David.

In November, there are approximately 5 hours of daylight in the Westfjords, so it's important to plan accordingly and make the most of the daylight hours. The average temperature ranges from 30°F to 39°F (-1°C to 4°C), so it's essential to pack warm layers and waterproof clothing. The weather can change rapidly, so be prepared for a mix of rain, snow, and clear skies. Despite the challenges, visiting Iceland in November offers a unique opportunity to witness the Northern Lights and experience the country's stunning landscapes without the crowds.

As I drift off to sleep, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to explore this incredible corner of the world. The Westfjords, with their raw beauty and unpredictable weather, have already captured my heart. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Reflections on a Day Well-Spent

From the hearty breakfast in Ísafjörður to the windswept vistas of Drangajökull, today was a journey through Iceland's dramatic landscapes and charming local culture. It's a day I'll cherish, a reminder of the beauty and adventure that await those who dare to venture off the beaten path.