Exploring the Untamed Wilderness of Iceland's Hornstrandir

A Journey Begins

As I sit here, nestled in a cozy corner of Ísafjörður after a long day of travel, I can hardly believe that David and I have finally arrived at the edge of the world, ready to embark on our adventure in Iceland's remote Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. The journey from Toronto was long, but the anticipation of exploring this untouched wilderness kept our spirits high. This trip is a bit different from my usual cultural explorations; it's a venture into raw, untamed nature, and I couldn't be more excited to share it with you all.


Discover the breathtaking landscapes and rich wildlife of Hornstrandir, a hidden gem in Iceland's Westfjords, perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.
The day began with the familiar hustle of Pearson International Airport. David, ever the pragmatist, made sure we were there with ample time to spare. I, of course, had triple-checked my packing list, mentally kicking myself for forgetting the solar charger. It’s always something, isn’t it? The flight to Reykjavik was smooth, and the views of Greenland's icy expanse were mesmerizing. I spent most of the flight editing photos for upcoming blog posts and jotting down notes in my travel journal.

After landing in Reykjavik, we hopped on a domestic flight to Ísafjörður, a charming town nestled in the Westfjords. The approach was breathtaking, with the small plane navigating through towering fjords and snow-dusted peaks. It was a stark reminder of the rugged beauty that awaited us. Upon arrival, the crisp Icelandic air filled my lungs, a refreshing change from the recycled air of the airplanes. The temperature was around 36°F (2°C) and the sky was cloudy. According to the forecast, we can expect some snow showers later today.

Our first order of business was breakfast at Jötunn restaurant. I opted for the traditional Icelandic Skyr with berries and a sprinkle of granola. David, predictably, went for the heartier option of smoked salmon and rye bread. The Skyr was creamy and tart, a delightful way to start the day. While we ate, we discussed our plans for the next few days, poring over maps of Hornstrandir and discussing potential hiking routes. I must admit, even with all my meticulous planning, a part of me feels wonderfully unprepared – a feeling I've come to cherish when embarking on a new adventure.


Discover Jötunn Restaurant: A must-visit culinary destination in Ísafjörður offering exquisite Icelandic-style sushi amidst stunning landscapes.
With our bellies full, we ventured into the town of Ísafjörður itself. Our boat to Hornstrandir wouldn't be leaving until later in the afternoon, so we had some time to explore. We strolled along the harbor, admiring the colorful fishing boats bobbing gently in the water. The town is small but vibrant, with a palpable sense of community. I couldn't help but feel a pang of nostalgia for Sai Kung, my hometown in Hong Kong, with its own bustling harbor and close-knit community.

Our first stop was Rammagerð Ísafjarðar, a delightful little shop brimming with local crafts. The shop was lovely, filled with quaint items that would bring back fond memories of this beautiful country. I was immediately drawn to the intricate knitted goods and delicate glassware. I picked up a hand-knitted wool scarf, a practical and beautiful souvenir to remind me of this trip. David, ever the history buff, was fascinated by the selection of books on Icelandic folklore and history. He ended up buying a book on the sagas of the Vikings, promising to regale me with tales of Norse gods and epic battles around the campfire. It is a bit expensive but well worth it for the quality of craftsmanship.


Explore Rammagerð Ísafjarðar: A treasure trove of unique Icelandic gifts, handcrafted art, and seasonal delights that reflect the local culture.

The journey to a new place is as much about discovering oneself as it is about seeing new landscapes.

Next on our list was lunch at Tjöruhúsið, a renowned seafood restaurant that came highly recommended. The restaurant is known for its fresh, locally sourced seafood, and it did not disappoint. We feasted on a platter of grilled fish, mussels, and shrimp, all cooked to perfection. The flavors were simple yet exquisite, allowing the natural taste of the seafood to shine through. As we savored each bite, we chatted with the friendly staff, learning about their lives in this remote corner of the world. Their stories were a reminder of the resilience and resourcefulness of the Icelandic people, who have thrived in this challenging environment for centuries.


Discover authentic Icelandic seafood at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður—where every dish tells a story from the sea.
After lunch, we popped into Dokkan Brugghús, the Westfjords' first and only brewery. I’m not usually a beer drinker, but I was curious to sample some local brews. David, of course, was more than happy to oblige. We tried a couple of different beers, each with its unique flavor profile. The brewery itself was small and cozy, with a friendly atmosphere. According to their website, Dokkan Brugghús was founded in October 2017 as a small family business for the purpose to make local craft beer. I opted for a small glass of their pale ale, while David enjoyed a pint of their stout. Sipping our beers, we chatted with some locals who shared tips about hiking in Hornstrandir and recommended hidden gems to explore. It was a great opportunity to connect with the community and get a sense of the local culture.


Discover the vibrant flavors of Iceland at Dokkan Brugghús, where craft beer meets exquisite local cuisine in a cozy atmosphere.
Finally, it was time to board the boat to Hornstrandir. The harbor was bustling with activity as hikers, researchers, and locals prepared for their journeys. The boat ride was an adventure in itself, as we navigated through the choppy waters of the fjord. The scenery was stunning, with towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and snow-capped mountains stretching as far as the eye could see. I bundled up in my new wool scarf, feeling grateful for its warmth as the wind whipped around us. As we approached Hornstrandir, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the sheer scale of the landscape. It was a place of raw, untamed beauty, a world away from the bustling cityscapes I was used to.

Arriving in Hornstrandir felt like stepping back in time. The nature reserve is a remote and wild area where Iceland's beauty is displayed at its best. There are no roads, no shops, and very few signs of human habitation. The only signs of civilization were a few scattered campsites and the occasional ranger station. As we disembarked from the boat, we were greeted by a park ranger who gave us a brief overview of the area and reminded us to respect the environment. We pitched our tent at a designated campsite near the coast, the sound of the waves providing a soothing soundtrack. The campsites are essential, as camping in Hornstrandir is forbidden outside the campsites, except in emergencies.

For dinner, we headed to Edinborg Bistro in Ísafjörður. I wanted to try some traditional Icelandic cuisine, so I ordered the lamb stew. It was hearty and flavorful, perfect for warming up after a day in the cold. David opted for the fish and chips, a classic comfort food. As we ate, we reflected on our first day in Iceland. It had been a whirlwind of travel, exploration, and new experiences. From the bustling streets of Reykjavik to the tranquil beauty of Ísafjörður, we had already seen so much of this incredible country. But the best was yet to come.


Discover the flavors of Iceland at Edinborg Bistro - where local ingredients meet culinary excellence in Ísafjörður.
As darkness fell, we retreated to our tent, the wind howling outside. I snuggled into my sleeping bag, feeling grateful for the warmth and comfort. Despite the long day, I couldn't fall asleep right away. My mind was racing with thoughts of the adventures that awaited us in Hornstrandir. I thought about the hikes we would take, the wildlife we would encounter, and the stories we would bring back home. I also thought about tomorrow's itinerary: Drangaskörð and Möngufoss.

Hornstrandir is not for the faint of heart. It's a place where the weather can change in an instant, where the terrain is rugged and unforgiving, and where you are completely at the mercy of nature. But it's also a place of unparalleled beauty, where you can experience the raw power and majesty of the natural world. As I drifted off to sleep, I knew that this trip would be a challenge, but I also knew that it would be an experience of a lifetime. I am eager to explore Iceland’s northernmost protected area.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Drangaskörð and Möngufoss. I've heard whispers of breathtaking views and cascading waterfalls, and I can't wait to share them with you all. For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge for another day of adventure in this incredible corner of the world. Goodnight from Iceland!

P.S. I almost forgot! We also stopped by a local bar, Dokkan Brugghús, for a quick drink before heading back to our accommodation. It's apparently the first and only brewery in the Westfjords, and their craft beers were quite unique. A perfect way to end our first day!