Family Adventure in Skaftafell, Iceland

Day 5: Chasing Glaciers and Dwarf Tales: A Day of Icelandic Wonders

Discovering the magic of Skaftafell: From the majestic Haoldukvisl glacier to the mythical Dverghamrar, an Icelandic adventure awaits!

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Whispers of Ice and Stone


Today was a day of exploring the raw beauty and mythical charm of Skaftafell. We ventured from the imposing glaciers to the legendary homes of Icelandic dwarves, creating memories that I know my family and I will cherish for years to come. It’s days like these that remind me why I started this blog – to share the wonder and adventure that travel brings, especially when experienced with loved ones.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Saatvik Restaurant (Kaffiterían Skaftafelli). Lena opted for the vegan cheesecake. Sophie loved it, though Lena thought it was too frosting-y. I enjoyed a strong coffee and a traditional Icelandic pastry before we set off for our first adventure: the Haoldukvisl glacier.

Explore the breathtaking Haoldukvisl Glacier, a stunning Icelandic natural wonder perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.
Explore the breathtaking Haoldukvisl Glacier, a stunning Icelandic natural wonder perfect for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.

Sometimes, the most rewarding journeys are those that lead you to unexpected connections with nature and folklore.


The drive to the glacier was stunning, with the landscape transforming into a rugged, icy wonderland. The weather was crisp, a typical Icelandic spring day, with a mix of sunshine and dramatic cloud cover. As a brewery technician, I appreciate the science behind natural phenomena, and seeing the glacier up close was awe-inspiring. The sheer scale of the ice, the deep blue hues, and the way it carved through the landscape was incredible. We parked near the Skaftafell Visitor Center and followed the marked hiking trails. The hike itself was moderate, perfect for a family adventure, and took us about two to three hours. Sophie was thrilled, pointing out every interesting rock and patch of snow along the way. I made sure to bring water and snacks, remembering the importance of being prepared, unlike our slight mishap with the raincoat and portable phone charger.



Reaching the glacier, we were met with an otherworldly scene. The tongue of ice stretched out before us, a frozen river slowly making its way down the mountain. The sheer scale of the glacier was breathtaking, and the silence, broken only by the occasional creak of the ice, was profound. I took the opportunity to snap some photos, trying to capture the immensity and beauty of the scene. I even managed to get a decent shot of Lena and Sophie with the glacier as a backdrop, a memory I know we’ll treasure. I thought about my days back in Kamloops, hiking in the Canadian Rockies, and felt a similar sense of awe and respect for nature's power. It's amazing how these landscapes, though different, evoke the same deep connection to the earth.

After our glacial encounter, we drove towards Dverghamrar, also known as the Dwarf Cliffs.

Discover the stunning Dverghamrar rock formations in Iceland, a breathtaking natural attraction perfect for photography and nature walks.
Discover the stunning Dverghamrar rock formations in Iceland, a breathtaking natural attraction perfect for photography and nature walks.

This was a completely different experience, steeped in Icelandic folklore. Dverghamrar is a set of basalt columns, believed to be the homes of dwarves. As we approached, the landscape shifted again, with lush vegetation surrounding the unique rock formations. The cliffs form a canyon of hexagonal basalt columns. The site has an attractive appearance and fascinating mythology. According to local tales, dwarves reside in these rocks. Sophie was particularly excited about this stop, her imagination running wild with stories of hidden folk and magical creatures. I must admit, even I felt a sense of wonder as we explored the area. It’s easy to see why these formations are considered mystical.

We parked in the free car park and took a short walk to the cliffs. The basalt columns were impressive, standing tall and imposing against the green landscape. We explored the horseshoe-shaped canyon, admiring the unusual rock formations. From the canyon, we had stunning views of the nearby Foss a Sidu waterfall. I read about the tale of Ólafía, who heard someone singing a hymn near the rocks, further adding to the mystical atmosphere. It’s these stories that bring a place to life, connecting us to the history and culture of the region.

For lunch, we stopped at Skaftfell Bistro.

Experience authentic Icelandic flavors in a cozy setting at Skaftfell Bistro - a perfect stop for tourists in Seyðisfjörður.
Experience authentic Icelandic flavors in a cozy setting at Skaftfell Bistro - a perfect stop for tourists in Seyðisfjörður.

The bistro had a cozy and inviting atmosphere. The food was fresh and delicious, with a focus on local ingredients. I had the smoked haddock, which was excellent, and Lena enjoyed a vegetarian pizza. Sophie, of course, opted for the classic fish and chips. It was a welcome break after our morning adventures, and we enjoyed the warm, friendly atmosphere of the bistro.

Our final stop of the day was the KIDKA Wool Factory Shop.

Explore KIDKA Wool Factory Shop: A Treasure Trove of Authentic Icelandic Wool Products in Hvammstangi.
Explore KIDKA Wool Factory Shop: A Treasure Trove of Authentic Icelandic Wool Products in Hvammstangi.

As someone who appreciates quality and craftsmanship, I was interested to see how Icelandic wool products are made. The shop was located in Hvammstangi. Inside, we found a wide array of clothing and accessories made from Icelandic wool. I was impressed by the quality and variety of the products. Lena bought a beautiful hand-knitted sweater, and I picked up a warm hat for myself. Sophie chose a cute, woolen sheep toy. It was a great way to support local artisans and take home a piece of Iceland with us.

For dinner, we decided to try Cafe Vatnajökull.

Experience local flavors and breathtaking views at Café Vatnajökull, your perfect stop in Öræfi.
Experience local flavors and breathtaking views at Café Vatnajökull, your perfect stop in Öræfi.

The cafe had a cozy atmosphere. I had a perfectly cooked curry soup, Lena had coconut soup, and Sophie had a pie. We finished off our meal with tasty brownies, biscuits, and crumble. The staff was accommodating, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with adventure and exploration.

As we headed back to our rental cabin, I reflected on the day’s experiences. From the icy expanse of the Haoldukvisl glacier to the mythical charm of Dverghamrar and the cozy comfort of Cafe Vatnajökull, Skaftafell had truly captured our hearts. Seeing Sophie's excitement and Lena's enjoyment made the day even more special. It’s these moments, shared with my family, that make all the planning and effort worthwhile.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to explore Skaftárrhreppur Waterfall and Fossálar Waterfall [If you are using public transportation, take a bus from the Skaftafell bus stop that goes towards Höfn. You will need to get off at the stop near the junction for Froad Háöldukvísl. From there, it is approximately a 5-kilometer walk to the glacier. Be sure to wear appropriate walking shoes, as the terrain can be uneven. Check the bus schedule ahead of time to ensure you have a return trip planned.]. I’m also hoping to sneak in a quick visit to Hotel Skaftafell for a local Icelandic beer. Until then, it's time to rest and recharge for another day of adventure in this incredible country.
Go to day 4 Chasing Waterfalls and Local Flavors in Skaftafell
Go to day 6 Chasing Waterfalls and Local Flavors in Skaftafell
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Family Adventure in Skaftafell, Iceland

Embark on an unforgettable family adventure exploring the stunning landscapes and natural wonders of Skaftafell, Iceland.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Michael Thompson
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Brewery Technician
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 34

Servus! I'm Michael, a Canadian expat living in Heidelberg, Germany, with my wife, Lena, and our daughter, Sophie. I'm a brewery technician by trade, but my true passion lies in exploring new places, savoring delicious beers, and capturing it all through my lens. Join me as I share my travel experiences, from the charming corners of Germany to adventures further afield. Whether you're planning a family trip or seeking inspiration for your own travels, I hope my stories and tips will help you create unforgettable memories.

Interests:
  • Craft Beer
  • Hiking
  • Photography
  • Canadian History
  • German Culture
More about Michael Thompson

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