Family Adventure in Skaftafell, Iceland

Skaftafell's Symphony of Water and Stone

Today was a day of embracing the raw, untamed beauty of Skaftafell, a place where water dances with volcanic rock and the air is filled with the promise of adventure. With Lena and Sophie by my side, I set out to explore the famed waterfalls and savor the local flavors, creating memories that I know we'll cherish for years to come. It was a day of moderate hiking, stunning views, and delicious food – a perfect blend of nature's artistry and Iceland's culinary charm.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Glacier Goodies. It's a cozy spot, and Sophie was particularly excited about their pancakes. Fuelled up, we were ready to tackle our first hike of the day: Svartifoss. The weather forecast predicted rain , but thankfully, it held off as we set out. The trail started near the visitor center, winding through a campsite before ascending gently uphill. It was a comfortable walk, even for little Sophie, and the anticipation of seeing the 'black waterfall' kept her spirits high. I had forgotten my raincoat, but the skies were kind, and I was grateful for that small mercy.

The hike to Svartifoss is considered easy to moderate, taking about an hour roundtrip. The path was well-maintained, and even though there was a bit of an incline, it wasn't too strenuous. As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on how different this landscape is from Heidelberg. The lush forests of Germany are replaced here by rugged terrain, shaped by glaciers and volcanoes. It's a stark contrast, but equally captivating.

As we rounded a bend, Svartifoss came into view, and it was every bit as striking as I had imagined. The waterfall cascades down from about 20 meters, framed by dark basalt columns that give it a unique, almost architectural appearance. The name Svartifoss literally means 'black waterfall,' and it's easy to see why. The basalt columns are hexagonal formations that were created by the slow cooling of lava. Sophie was mesmerized, pointing and exclaiming at the 'black rocks' and the 'white water.'


Explore the stunning Svartifoss waterfall, renowned for its unique basalt columns in Iceland's Vatnajökull National Park.

Nature always wears the colors of the spirit.

We spent some time taking photos and simply soaking in the view. The viewing platform was a bit crowded, but it didn't detract from the experience. I tried to capture the scene with my camera, hoping to do justice to the raw beauty of the place. It's moments like these that remind me why I love photography – the ability to freeze a moment in time and share it with others.

After Svartifoss, we decided to extend our hike to take in Systrafoss as well. This meant a bit more walking, but the promise of another waterfall was enough to keep us motivated. The trail to Systrafoss was equally scenic, winding through lush greenery and offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The weather remained cooperative, with only a few scattered clouds in the sky. I had packed some snacks for Sophie, which proved to be a wise decision as her energy levels started to dip.

Systrafoss, or 'Sisters’ Falls', is located in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. The waterfall is easily accessible, right next to the road and parking area. The falls are named after the nuns who lived in a convent nearby in medieval times. There's a charming story associated with the name – legend has it that nuns were bathing in the lake when it broke open and cascaded down, forming the waterfall.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Systrafoss, a stunning waterfall surrounded by picturesque hiking trails in Iceland's enchanting landscapes.

The hike to the Systrafoss viewpoint is a relatively easy climb, taking about 30 minutes. The path gets steeper as you go up, but the views are well worth the effort. From the top, you can see the village, the surrounding valley, and on clear days, even Vatnajökull glacier. Sophie enjoyed the walk, although she needed a bit of encouragement on the steeper sections. Lena and I took turns carrying her on our shoulders, making it a fun family effort.

After our waterfall adventures, it was time for lunch. We headed to Cafe Munkar in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. This café is known for its homemade food and cozy atmosphere. It was a welcome respite after our hikes, and the aroma of freshly baked goods filled the air. I ordered the salmon, which came highly recommended. Lena opted for a traditional Icelandic lamb soup, and Sophie chose a simple pasta dish. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous. It felt like a home-cooked meal, which was a nice change from the usual tourist fare.


Experience authentic Icelandic flavors at Cafe Munkar in Kirkjubæjarklaustur – where culinary tradition meets modern comfort.

With our bellies full, we decided to explore Kirkjubæjarklaustur a bit. It's a small village with a rich history, dating back to the 12th century. We visited the Kirkjugólf, a natural pavement of basalt columns that resembles a church floor. It's a fascinating geological formation, and Sophie was intrigued by the 'giant tiles.' We also took a stroll through the village, admiring the colorful houses and the tranquil atmosphere.

As evening approached, we made our way to Systrakaffi for a pre-dinner drink. This family-run restaurant and bar is known for its diverse menu and relaxed ambiance. I decided to try a local beer, while Lena had a glass of wine. Sophie, of course, opted for juice. We sat outside, enjoying the fresh air and the views of the surrounding landscape. It was a perfect way to unwind after a day of hiking and exploring.


Discover the authentic taste of Iceland at Systrakaffi, where local ingredients meet warm hospitality in the heart of Kirkjubæjarklaustur.

Dinner was at Pakkhús Restaurant in Höfn. Although it required a bit of a drive, I had heard rave reviews about their seafood, and I was eager to try it. The restaurant is located by the harbor, offering stunning views of the coastline. The ambiance was warm and inviting, with rustic decor that paid homage to Iceland's fishing heritage. I ordered the langoustine, which is their specialty. Lena chose the arctic char, and Sophie had fish and chips. The food was exquisite, and the service was impeccable. The langoustine was cooked to perfection, and the arctic char was equally delicious. Even Sophie, who can be a picky eater, devoured her fish and chips.


Experience exquisite Icelandic cuisine with stunning coastal views at Pakkhús Restaurant in Höfn.

As we drove back to our rental cabin, I reflected on the day's adventures. We had hiked to stunning waterfalls, savored local flavors, and explored a charming village. It was a day of contrasts – the raw power of nature juxtaposed with the warmth and hospitality of the Icelandic people. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible place with my family.

Tomorrow, we're planning to explore the Haoldukvisl glacier and Dverghamrar. I'm particularly excited about the glacier, as I've always been fascinated by these icy giants. Sophie is looking forward to seeing the Dverghamrar, which are said to be the home of dwarves. It promises to be another day of adventure and discovery.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy a new raincoat. And perhaps a portable phone charger, as mine seems to be constantly running out of battery. But these are minor inconveniences in the grand scheme of things. What truly matters is the memories we're creating, the bonds we're strengthening, and the shared experiences that will stay with us long after we've left this magical place. Skaftafell, you have captured our hearts.

And to my fellow travelers, remember this: embrace the unexpected, savor the moment, and never forget to pack a raincoat. You never know when you might need it.

Until tomorrow,

Michael