A Solo Escape to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Embracing Comfort in the Wild

Today was a welcome change of pace on my solo adventure in Hornstrandir. After days of rigorous hiking and camping, I decided to treat myself to a day of relative luxury. I ventured back to Ísafjörður, eager to experience some of the local flavors and enjoy a brief respite from the elements. It’s funny how quickly one adapts to the wilderness, yet the simple comforts of civilization can feel incredibly indulgent.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Húsið. This charming coffeehouse, restaurant, and guesthouse, nestled in an old house along the scenic harbor area, was exactly what I needed. The atmosphere was cozy and inviting, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air. I opted for their famous seafood soup, a delightful concoction made with the catch of the day and shrimp. It was the perfect way to warm up and fuel my adventures for the day.


Discover authentic Icelandic cuisine at Húsið in Ísafjörður – where tradition meets breathtaking views.

Sometimes, the greatest adventures are found not only in the grand landscapes but also in the quiet moments of savoring local flavors and embracing unexpected comforts.

After breakfast, I spent some time wandering through the town of Ísafjörður. It’s a gorgeous northwestern town with fewer than 4,000 people, nestled in the Westfjords. I admired the towering mountains and the endless coastline, soaking in the charm of the downtown area. The colorful buildings and the quaint shops were a welcome sight after the stark beauty of Hornstrandir. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.

For lunch, I decided to try Thai Tawee. It was an unexpected find in this remote corner of Iceland, but I was in the mood for something different. The restaurant was small and unassuming, but the food was surprisingly authentic and delicious. I ordered a green curry with tofu, and it was packed with flavor and spice. It was a delightful change from the traditional Icelandic fare I had been consuming, and it left me feeling satisfied and energized.


Experience the best of authentic Thai cuisine fused with Icelandic flavors at Thai Tawee in Ísafjörður.

In the late afternoon, I made my way to Kvítar Lodge. Overlooking Jökulfirðir Bay and situated within the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, the remote Kvíar Lodge is only accessible by boat from the Icelandic town of Ísafjörður. The lodge has just six rooms which are serviced with one shared shower room and separate toilet. A chef also lives at the property whenever guests are staying and cooks some excellent food despite the remoteness of the lodge. There is also electricity for charging your electronic items, a hide for watching wildlife and also the nordic essential, a sauna ! Kvíar was a farm in Kvíadalur Valley, a beautiful setting at the edge of the water with panoramic views over the big Jökulfirðir Bay. I was able to secure permission from the owners to visit the campsite there.


Experience the tranquility of Kviar Lodge in Iceland, where stunning nature meets comfort for an unforgettable escape.

As evening approached, I decided to treat myself to a proper Icelandic dinner at Restaurant Galdur. Located in Holmavik, it was a bit of a drive, but I had heard great things about their seafood. The restaurant had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the staff was friendly and welcoming. I ordered the seafood platter, a generous assortment of fresh fish, shrimp, and mussels. It was cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. I savored every bite, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the culinary delights of Iceland.


Experience fresh Icelandic seafood at Restaurant Galdur in Hólmavík - where taste meets tradition amidst breathtaking scenery.

After dinner, I considered visiting a local bar in Ísafjörður. Logn, restaurant & bar is a new restaurant located on the ground floor of Hotel Ísafjörður. At Logn, you can enjoy delicious dishes from a diverse menu. Happy hour is available every day between 4:00 PM and 6:00 PM, and there is also a great selection of gin drinks and fine wines. There is a comfortable lounge area next to the bar where you can relax after a busy day of traveling. However, the allure of Hornstrandir called me back, and I decided to return to my campsite for a quiet evening under the stars. I wanted to be well rested for tomorrow's hike to Drangaskörð and Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús).

As I reflect on today, I realize how important it is to find balance on any journey. While I am drawn to the solitude and challenge of the wilderness, I also appreciate the comforts and connections that civilization offers. Perhaps it is this very contrast that makes each experience so meaningful. Good night from Hornstrandir.

The weather in Hornstrandir in October can be unpredictable. Temperatures typically range from 0°C to 5°C (32°F to 41°F), and storms and heavy rains are common. It's essential to pack accordingly with rainproof and windproof gear, sturdy walking shoes, and warm layers. Despite the challenges, the beauty and tranquility of Hornstrandir make it a worthwhile destination for those seeking adventure and solitude.