A Solo Escape to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Echoes of History and Ice

Today, the tenth day of my solo adventure in Iceland, was a poignant blend of icy landscapes and ghostly remnants of the past. It felt like stepping back in time, the wind carrying whispers of stories long forgotten. I find myself reflecting on the resilience of nature and the fleeting nature of human endeavors.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jötunn restaurant. Fortified, I set out to explore Drangajökull, Iceland's northernmost glacier. The drive itself was breathtaking, the rugged terrain a constant reminder of Iceland's raw beauty. As I approached Drangajökull, its icy expanse dominated the horizon. Unlike other glaciers in Iceland, Drangajökull has remained relatively stable in size, a testament to its unique resilience against the effects of climate change. Standing there, I felt a profound sense of awe and respect for this icy giant, a survivor in a rapidly changing world.


Explore Drangajökull Glacier, the northernmost glacier in Iceland, where stunning landscapes and outdoor adventures await amidst breathtaking natural beauty.

Drangajökull, though smaller than its counterparts like Vatnajökull, possesses a unique charm. It's the only glacier entirely within the Westfjords and the only one with an altitude completely below 1,000 meters. Surrounded by untouched wilderness, it’s earned the nickname 'Iceland's loneliest glacier'. As I gazed across the icy landscape, I could understand why. The solitude was palpable, broken only by the occasional cry of a bird overhead.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

From the glacier, I journeyed to Djúpavík, a village steeped in history and haunting beauty. The drive was long, but the anticipation of seeing this abandoned village kept me going. Djúpavík's story is one of boom and bust, a microcosm of Iceland's own economic cycles. In 1917, Elías Stefánsson built a herring salting factory here, hoping to capitalize on the abundance of herring in the surrounding waters. However, economic hardship struck, and the factory was abandoned just two years later.


Discover the historic Djúpavík, where Iceland's fishing legacy comes to life in a stunning coastal setting, perfect for nature lovers and history buffs alike.

In 1934, a new, larger factory was built, the largest concrete building in Iceland at the time. For a decade, Djúpavík thrived, its population swelling with workers eager to earn a living from the sea. But the herring eventually disappeared, and by 1954, the factory was once again silent, its workers gone. Today, Djúpavík stands as a ghost village, a haunting reminder of the fragility of human endeavors.

I explored the abandoned herring factory, its cavernous interior echoing with the ghosts of its past. The rusting machinery stood as silent witnesses to a bygone era, the air thick with the scent of salt and decay. I imagined the bustling activity of the factory in its heyday, the shouts of workers, the clatter of machinery, the smell of herring filling the air. Now, only silence remained, a poignant reminder of the impermanence of human endeavors.

Outside the factory, I walked through the village, its seven houses standing empty, their windows like vacant eyes staring out at the fjord. Only the hotel remains open year-round, a testament to the enduring allure of this remote place. I hiked to Djúpavíkurfoss, the waterfall that cascades down the cliffs behind the village. From the top, I had a panoramic view of Djúpavík, the factory, and the fjord, the landscape stretching out before me in all its stark beauty. I could see why the producer of Justice League chose Djúpavík as a filming location, the dramatic scenery providing a perfect backdrop for the movie.

For lunch, I stopped at Einarshusid, savoring traditional Icelandic fare. The cozy atmosphere and hearty food were a welcome respite from the day's explorations. Later, I enjoyed dinner at Stúkuhúsið, reflecting on the day's experiences. The friendly staff and delicious local food provided a comforting end to a day filled with history and haunting beauty.

Before heading back, I decided to visit Edinborg Bistro for a drink. It was a cozy place, perfect for unwinding after a long day of exploration. As I sipped my drink, I thought about the stories I had encountered today, the stories of resilience, loss, and the enduring power of nature. It's interesting to note that Edinborg also serves as a cultural center, hosting various events and exhibitions. Perhaps I'll catch one tomorrow if time allows.

Tomorrow marks the final day of my solo adventure in Hornstrandir. I plan to visit Stórurðarlundur and Drangajökull útsýnisstaður, eager to soak in the last moments of this incredible landscape. I'll also make a stop at Geðræktarmiðstöðin Vesturafl - Nytjamarkaður, hoping to find a unique souvenir to remind me of my time here. As I prepare to leave this remote corner of Iceland, I know that the memories and experiences I've gathered will stay with me long after I've returned home. This journey has been more than just a trip; it's been a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with nature and history, and a reminder of the importance of solitude and reflection. I am grateful for every moment, every challenge, and every breathtaking view. This solo escape to Hornstrandir has been an experience I will cherish forever. The quiet strength of this land has seeped into my soul, and I know I will carry a piece of it with me always. I feel a sense of accomplishment, having navigated the trails and embraced the solitude of this unique place. It's a feeling I know I'll seek again in future travels.

As I settle into my tent for the night, I'm filled with a sense of peace and gratitude. The wind whispers outside, carrying the echoes of the past, the stories of the land, and the promise of new adventures to come.