Family Adventure on the Amalfi Coast

Echoes of the Past: A Day of Discovery in Amalfi

Today was a day of exploring Amalfi beyond the bustling piazzas and sun-kissed beaches. I wanted to delve into the region’s rich history and natural beauty, and I found the perfect way to do it: by hiking through the Valle dei Mulini and visiting the ancient Torre dello Ziro. It was an adventure that combined stunning scenery with a fascinating glimpse into Amalfi's past.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at B&B Al Pesce d'Oro. The aroma of freshly baked pastries and strong Italian coffee filled the air, setting the perfect tone for our explorations. After fuelling up, we set off towards the Valle dei Mulini, also known as the Valley of the Mills. The valley is easily accessible from Amalfi, and the hike is considered relatively easy, making it suitable for families like ours. Amara was particularly excited, and Maximilian, ever the architect, was keen to see the historical remnants of Amalfi’s industrial past.

The trail to Valle dei Mulini wound its way through lush lemon groves. The air was thick with the citrusy scent, a refreshing change from the salty sea breeze we had grown accustomed to. As we walked, the sounds of Amalfi slowly faded behind us, replaced by the gentle murmur of the Canneto stream. It felt like stepping into another world, a hidden oasis of green and tranquility.

As we ventured deeper into the valley, the ruins of the ancient paper mills began to appear. These mills, some dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries, were once the heart of Amalfi’s thriving paper industry. It was fascinating to imagine the valley bustling with activity, the rhythmic sounds of the mills filling the air as they produced Amalfi’s famous hand-made paper. Now, the ruins stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, covered in moss and vegetation, blending seamlessly with the natural landscape.

Sometimes, the most profound beauty lies not in grand monuments, but in the quiet whispers of history echoing through forgotten places.

Amara was captivated by the sight of the old mills, her imagination running wild as she explored the crumbling walls and peered into the dark interiors. I had to keep a close eye on her, as some of the ruins were a bit precarious, but it was wonderful to see her so engaged with the history around her. Maximilian, meanwhile, was busy examining the architecture of the mills, pointing out the ingenious ways in which they harnessed the power of the stream to operate their machinery.

The path continued along the Canneto stream, leading us past cascading waterfalls and pools of crystal-clear water. I was particularly fascinated by the Woodwardia Radicans, a rare giant fern that dates back to prehistoric times. It felt like stepping back in time, a world away from the sun-drenched beaches and bustling piazzas of Amalfi. I learned that Amalfi became one of the first locations in Europe to produce paper around the 1230s. The fresh water source running down the Valle dei Mulini made it an ideal setting for paper making, and Amalfi's paper was soon sold all over the Mediterranean. The ruins of the mills are now covered in vegetation, giving the valley an ethereal, almost magical quality.


Explore Valle dei Mulini, a scenic hiking gem in Amalfi, Italy, rich in history and natural beauty, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers alike.
After a couple of hours of exploring the Valle dei Mulini, we made our way back towards Amalfi, our minds filled with images of the valley’s natural beauty and industrial past. For lunch, we chose Locanda del Marinaio, a charming restaurant near the harbor. We savored plates of fresh seafood, enjoying the stunning views of the coastline as we reminisced about our morning hike.

In the afternoon, we decided to visit the Torre dello Ziro, an ancient watchtower perched high above Amalfi and Atrani. The tower is accessible from Pontone, a small village near Scala, and the hike to reach it promised breathtaking panoramic views. We took a local bus to Pontone and began our ascent, following the signs towards Atrani and the Torre dello Ziro. The path was steep and winding, with numerous steps, but the views along the way were more than worth the effort.

As we climbed higher, we could see the picturesque town of Ravello across the valley, its elegant villas and gardens shimmering in the afternoon sun. Looking down, we had stunning views of Atrani and Amalfi, their colorful buildings clinging to the cliffs, the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean stretching out before us.

The Torre dello Ziro itself is a fascinating historical site, built in 1480 by the Duke of Amalfi to defend against Saracen pirate attacks. The tower was part of a larger fortress complex, Castrum Scalelle, which played a crucial role in the defense of the Republic of Amalfi. The tower also has a darker side to its history, as it is said to be the site where Giovanna d’Aragona, the Duchess of Amalfi, and her children were imprisoned and murdered in the early 16th century.

Standing atop the Torre dello Ziro, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and reverence. The views were simply breathtaking, a 360-degree panorama of the Amalfi Coast's stunning natural beauty. I could see the entire coastline stretching out before me, from Positano to Salerno, the mountains rising majestically behind the towns, the sea sparkling in the sunlight.


Explore Torre dello Ziro, a historic tower offering breathtaking views, hiking trails, and a taste of the Amalfi Coast's rich heritage.
Amara was fascinated by the legends surrounding the tower, particularly the story of the Duchess of Amalfi. She peppered me with questions about the duchess and her tragic fate, her young mind trying to grasp the complexities of history and human nature. Maximilian, meanwhile, was busy taking photographs, capturing the stunning views from every possible angle.

After spending some time at the Torre dello Ziro, soaking in the views and the history, we began our descent towards Atrani. The path down was even steeper than the path up, but we took our time, enjoying the scenery and the fresh air. As we reached Atrani, we were greeted by the sight of its charming piazzetta and its picturesque beach.

Before heading back to our hotel, we stopped at Ricky's Shop in Amalfi. I was hoping to find some unique, locally made souvenirs to take back home. The shop had a delightful array of items, from colorful ceramics and hand-painted tiles to bottles of limoncello and local olive oil. I picked up a few small gifts for friends and family, as well as a beautiful hand-painted ceramic bowl for myself, a reminder of our time on the Amalfi Coast.

For dinner, we had a reservation at Terrazza 17, a restaurant known for its romantic ambiance and stunning views. As we dined on delicious Italian cuisine, watching the sunset over the Mediterranean, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. We had explored hidden valleys, climbed ancient towers, and immersed ourselves in the history and beauty of the Amalfi Coast.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the island of Ischia, known for its thermal gardens and stunning natural beauty. We'll be visiting Giardino della Pellerina and Belvedere Mortella, two of the island's most famous gardens, and enjoying dinner at Dei Cappuccini, a restaurant known for its exquisite cuisine and breathtaking views. And perhaps, we'll end the day with a relaxing drink at La Dolce Vita bar, soaking in the island's laid-back atmosphere.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am struck by the incredible diversity of the Amalfi Coast. It is a place where history and nature intertwine, where ancient ruins stand alongside modern towns, where stunning landscapes meet vibrant culture. It is a place that captivates the senses and nourishes the soul. I am so grateful to be able to share this experience with my family, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

I am also reminded of how much I value sustainable tourism. I am always looking for ways to minimize my impact on the environment and support local communities when I travel. I try to choose eco-friendly accommodations, eat at local restaurants, and buy souvenirs from local artisans. I also try to be respectful of the local culture and traditions, learning a few phrases in the local language and dressing appropriately when visiting religious sites.

I believe that sustainable tourism is essential for preserving the beauty and culture of the Amalfi Coast for future generations. By making conscious choices about how we travel, we can help to ensure that this magical place continues to thrive for many years to come.