Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Monday Musings on Art Island

Today was a day of unexpected delights and quiet contemplation here on Naoshima. It’s funny how sometimes the best travel days are the ones where you have no grand expectations, but simply let the island reveal itself to you. After a week of immersing myself in Naoshima’s famed art museums, I decided to explore some of the more local, everyday aspects of the island. Let’s just say, it was a Monday well spent!

My day began, as many do here, with a caffeine fix. I cycled over to Akaito Coffee for breakfast. It’s a charming little café near Miyanoura Port, and I’d heard great things about their hand-roasted coffee. The red-brick exterior and cozy interior were instantly inviting. It felt like stepping back in time, with vintage signage and wooden furniture creating a warm atmosphere. The coffee was indeed excellent – a rich, aromatic blend that was the perfect start to my day. I also treated myself to a scone, which was just the right amount of crumbly and sweet. What a perfect way to start the day! I made a mental note to bring Hans here someday; he’d love the atmosphere and the coffee.


Discover Akaito Coffee on Naoshima Island, where art, literature, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee create an unforgettable experience.
Fueled and ready, my next stop was the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. Now, I know what you might be thinking: a public bath? But trust me, this is no ordinary bathhouse. Designed by artist Shinro Ohtake, it’s an art installation in itself! The exterior is a riot of colors and materials – tiles, mosaics, sculptures, neon lights, and even tropical plants. It’s like a 3D scrapbook, a collage of Showa-era kitsch and random found objects. I was honestly a bit overwhelmed at first, but in the best way possible. I paid my admission, rented a small towel (note to self: remember to pack a travel towel next time!), and stepped inside.


Experience the unique blend of relaxation and art at Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu, a must-visit destination for tranquility and cultural immersion.
The interior was just as wild as the exterior. The changing rooms were adorned with colorful tiles and quirky details. And the bathing area… well, it was an experience. I followed the local custom of washing thoroughly at the shower stations before stepping into the hot bath. And then I just relaxed and took it all in. There was an interesting mosaic on the wall and bottom of the bath, and even a life-size elephant statue separating the male and female bathing areas! It was surreal, slightly bizarre, and utterly delightful. I felt incredibly refreshed and invigorated after my soak. It’s definitely a unique way to experience art – naked and wet!

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After my bath, I decided to seek out some outdoor art. I hopped back on my bike and headed towards the Benesse House area, in search of George Rickey's Three Squares Vertical Diagonal, 1972-82. I found it perched on a hillside overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. It was a beautiful kinetic sculpture, with three large squares gently swaying in the breeze. I spent some time just watching it, mesmerized by its graceful movements and the way it interacted with the surrounding landscape. It was a perfect example of how art can enhance and be enhanced by nature.


Experience the captivating movement of George Rickey's Three Squares Vertical Diagonal, a kinetic sculpture blending art and nature on the enchanting island of Naoshima.
From there, I decided to explore a bit of Naoshima’s natural beauty. I’d read about Kasaneiwa, a set of large, naturally sculpted rocks revered by locals. It involved a bit of a climb up a narrow mountain road, but the views were well worth it. The rocks themselves were impressive, precariously balanced on top of each other. And the scenery of the Seto Inland Sea was breathtaking. It felt like a very spiritual place, a hidden gem away from the crowds.


Explore the stunning natural beauty and historical significance of Kasaneiwa, a captivating landmark in Tonosho, Kagawa, Japan.
By this point, I was starting to get hungry, so I cycled back towards the main town in search of lunch. I ended up at Gumbo Hut Shioya, a Cajun restaurant that I'd heard about. I know, Cajun food on a Japanese art island sounds a bit strange, but I was intrigued. The restaurant had a retro vibe, with vintage décor and a warm atmosphere. The gumbo was delicious – rich, hearty, and full of flavor. It was a welcome change from the Japanese food I’d been eating for the past week (though I do love Japanese food!). The owner was incredibly friendly and welcoming, and we chatted for a while about art, travel, and the joys of good food. I felt like I’d stumbled upon a real hidden gem.


Experience authentic Cajun cuisine at Gumbo Hut Shioya on Naoshima Island - where flavor meets art in an unforgettable dining adventure.
After lunch, I popped into Naoshima Shop Umihotaru, a local shop that sells souvenirs and snacks. I picked up a few postcards to send to my family, as well as some local sweets to try later. The shop also had a small café area with beautiful views of the sea. It was a nice place to relax and soak in the atmosphere of the island.


Experience the artistic spirit of Naoshima at Shop Umihotaru, where local flavors meet breathtaking views in a charming cafe setting.
As evening approached, I made my way to Yayoda for dinner. This restaurant is known for its fresh seafood, and I was eager to try it. The restaurant had a traditional Japanese aesthetic, with tatami mats and cozy tables. I ordered a selection of sashimi and grilled fish, all of which were incredibly fresh and delicious. The chefs clearly take pride in using seasonal ingredients, and every dish was prepared with precision and care. I paired my meal with some local sake, which was the perfect complement to the seafood.


Discover Yayoda: A seafood haven in Naoshima offering exquisite Japanese cuisine with fresh local ingredients.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yokobou Park, Miyanoura Gallery 6, and Benesse House Park. I'm also hoping to check out New Olympia, a local sushi bar, for a late-night snack.

Tonight, as I reflect on my day, I’m struck by the unique blend of art, nature, and everyday life that makes Naoshima so special. It’s not just about the famous museums and installations; it’s also about the local coffee shops, the quirky bathhouses, the hidden scenic spots, and the friendly people. It’s about finding beauty and inspiration in the unexpected, and embracing the simple joys of life. I feel incredibly grateful to be here, experiencing this magical island. I think this is a place where Hans and I could really find some peace.

Good night from Naoshima!