Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of Water and Cedar

Today was all about embracing the natural beauty and cultural richness of Yakushima. From the cascading waters of Ryujin Falls to the serene ambiance of Yaku-jinja Shrine, and the captivating scents at YAWARACA, every moment was a sensory delight. It was a day to remember, filled with laughter, exploration, and a deeper appreciation for this incredible island.

Our ninth day in Yakushima began with an early start, fueled by excitement and anticipation. After a quick bite, we headed out to explore the island's wonders, with Ryujin Falls at the top of our list. The forecast predicted another warm day, typical for August, so we were eager to find some respite in the cool mist of the waterfalls. I made sure to pack my eco-friendly water bottle and, remembering yesterday’s oversight, I didn’t forget the insect repellent this time!

Our first stop was a little gem of a place called 'a heavenly kitchen' for breakfast. Tucked away, this small, plant-based restaurant promised a unique culinary experience. And it delivered! The owner welcomed us warmly into what felt like their home. With only one table in the entire place, it felt incredibly intimate and special. They use local fruits and vegetables to create a series of set menus. I opted for the sushi set, while one of my friends chose the mindfulness eating set, complete with lyre music. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. It was a nourishing start to our day, both for our bodies and our souls. I must remember to try growing some of these unique herbs back in my garden in Toronto!

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off towards Ryujin Falls. The drive itself was stunning, with lush greenery and glimpses of the coastline. As we approached the falls, the sound of rushing water grew louder, building our anticipation. The hike to the falls was relatively easy, taking us through a well-maintained path surrounded by dense forest. The August humidity was definitely noticeable, but the promise of the waterfall kept us going.

Finally, we arrived at Ryujin Falls, and it was a sight to behold ! The water cascaded down the rugged cliffs, creating a mesmerizing display of nature's power. The name Ryujin, meaning Dragon God, seemed fitting as the falls resembled a dragon with its mouth wide open. The mist from the falls created a refreshing coolness, and we spent a good while simply taking in the beauty and energy of the place. I captured a few photos, but as always, pictures don't quite do justice to the real thing.


Explore the breathtaking Ryujin Falls in Yakushima, a natural wonder surrounded by lush forests and stunning landscapes, perfect for nature lovers.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of nature's offerings.

After thoroughly enjoying Ryujin Falls, we continued our journey to Yaku-jinja Shrine. Nestled in the Miyanoura region of Yakushima, this serene Shinto shrine offered a moment of reflection and cultural immersion. As we approached the shrine, we were greeted by a calm and peaceful atmosphere. The air was filled with the scent of cedar, and the gentle sounds of nature created a soothing backdrop.


Discover the tranquility and spiritual heritage of Yaku-jinja Shrine, a serene escape in the heart of Yakushima's lush landscapes.

Yaku-jinja Shrine is known as the guardian shrine of the islanders, with an inner shrine at the top of Mt. Miyanoura. The shrine enshrines Amatsu Hikohikohoho de no Mikoto. The architecture reflected traditional Japanese design, with intricate wooden structures that harmonized beautifully with the natural environment. We strolled through the grounds, admiring the craftsmanship and soaking in the spiritual ambiance. I purchased a small climbing charm in the shape of Yakushima as a memento of our journey. I am not particularly religious, but I found the visit to be a calming and centering experience. It reminded me of the importance of taking time for reflection and connecting with something larger than ourselves. My friend David, ever the history buff, was fascinated by the shrine's history as the southernmost shrine listed in the Engi Shiki, a tenth-century Japanese code of law.

By lunchtime, we were ready for a change of pace and a taste of Italy. We headed to Il Mare, an Italian restaurant near the airport that came highly recommended. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. The aroma of freshly baked pizza and simmering sauces filled the air, making our mouths water. Il Mare is known for its authentic Italian cuisine made with local Yakushima ingredients. I decided to try the seafood pasta, while my friends opted for the local venison pizza. Each dish was a culinary masterpiece, bursting with flavor and made with the freshest ingredients. It was a delightful change from Japanese cuisine, and a testament to the island's diverse culinary offerings. The chef clearly knew his craft, and the service was friendly and attentive. We savored every bite, accompanied by a glass of Italian wine. It felt like a little slice of Italy in the heart of Yakushima. I must admit, I was surprised to find such an authentic Italian experience on a remote Japanese island!


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

After a satisfying lunch, we were ready for some retail therapy and a sensory experience at YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB”. This unique shop specializes in aromatic products made from local Yakushima cedar. As someone who is passionate about sustainability and natural living, I was intrigued by their approach to forest management. YAWARACA thins neglected reforestation areas to extract essential oils, contributing to a healthier forest ecosystem. It's wonderful to see a business that is both environmentally conscious and economically viable.


Explore YAWARACA in Yakushima for exquisite home goods that celebrate local craftsmanship and the island's natural beauty.

The shop itself was a haven of calming scents. We sampled various essential oils, each with its distinct fragrance. I learned that the cedar trees in Yakushima have a unique wood composition and higher oil content than trees on the main island of Honshu. I ended up purchasing a few bottles of essential oils and a cedarwood diffuser to bring the scents of Yakushima back home with me. My friend Jasmine, who is studying aromatherapy, was in heaven, carefully analyzing each scent and learning about the extraction process.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to SamPotei for dinner. This modern izakaya restaurant is known for its vibrant atmosphere and exquisite local flavors. Upon entering, we were greeted by a warm and inviting ambiance, making it the perfect place for a relaxed evening meal. The menu featured a wide selection of dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. We ordered a variety of small plates to share, including grilled skewers, sashimi, and local delicacies. Each dish was expertly prepared and bursting with flavor. The sake selection was also impressive, and we enjoyed sampling a few different varieties. The attentive staff made excellent recommendations and enhanced our overall dining experience. It was a wonderful way to end our day, savoring delicious food and drinks while reflecting on our adventures. I made sure to try the local craft beer, which was a perfect complement to the meal. The izakaya had a jazzy vibe, which made the whole experience even more enjoyable.


Experience the flavors of Japan at SamPotei, where traditional izakaya meets modern culinary artistry in the heart of Yakushima.

As I sit here in my guesthouse, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences of today. Yakushima continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. From the cascading waterfalls to the serene shrines and the captivating scents of cedar, this island is a feast for the senses. I'm also grateful for the company of my friends, who make every adventure even more special.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Botanic Gardens and the East China Sea Observatory [if last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I'm excited to see what new wonders await us as we continue our exploration of this magical island. I might even try out Ambar bar in the evening for a nightcap [if last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. Until then, goodnight from Yakushima!