Culinary and Cultural Adventures in Florence with Family

A Florentine Friday in Oltrarno

Today, I ventured into the Oltrarno district, a side of Florence that hums with a different energy than the bustling tourist spots near the Duomo. It's a place where artisans still ply their trade, where the aroma of leather mingles with the scent of freshly baked bread, and where every corner seems to whisper stories of the past. I was eager to explore this authentic Florentine neighborhood with Anjali and Arjun, seeking to uncover its hidden gems and savor its local flavors.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Buca dell'Orafo. This cozy spot, recommended by several locals, promised an authentic Florentine experience. Tucked away near the Ponte Vecchio, Buca dell'Orafo felt like stepping back in time. The restaurant, once owned by a goldsmith—orafo in Italian, hence the name—exuded a rustic charm with its exposed brick walls and intimate setting. It was the perfect way to start our day.


Discover Buca dell'Orafo: An enchanting restaurant in Florence offering authentic Tuscan dishes within a charming cellar setting.
We settled in, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee filling the air. I ordered their famed *tortino ai carciofi* (artichoke tart), while Anjali opted for the *maltagliati al ragù* (irregularly cut pasta with meat sauce). Arjun, ever the adventurous one, chose the *groppa scaloppata al pecorino* (rump steak with pecorino cheese). As we waited for our food, I couldn't help but reflect on my own culinary journey. Leaving Gorkha, Nepal, for Leipzig, Germany, was a leap of faith, but it allowed me to share the flavors of my homeland with a new audience. And now, here I was in Florence, ready to soak in the culinary traditions of Italy.

When our dishes arrived, they were a feast for the eyes as much as the palate. My artichoke tart was a delicate balance of savory and earthy flavors, while Anjali's ragu was rich and comforting. Arjun's steak was cooked to perfection, the pecorino cheese adding a delightful sharpness. It was the perfect start to a day of exploration.

The true essence of travel lies not in ticking off landmarks, but in immersing oneself in the local culture, savoring its flavors, and connecting with its people.

Bellies full and spirits high, we set off to explore the Basilica di Santo Spirito. Designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, this church is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. As we approached the piazza, the Basilica’s unassuming façade gave little hint of the artistic treasures hidden within. Brunelleschi, one of the fathers of the Renaissance, began designing the church in 1436, but he died before it was completed. The construction was finished later by his followers, who attempted to stay true to his original vision.


Discover the breathtaking Basilica di Santo Spirito in Florence, a stunning blend of art, history, and spirituality in the heart of Tuscany.
Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the harmony and balance of the interior. The serene color palette of white plaster and gray stone created a calming atmosphere, a welcome respite from the bustling city outside. Thirty-eight chapels line the perimeter, each adorned with unique artworks. Anjali was particularly drawn to the stained glass windows, their intricate designs casting colorful patterns across the floor. Arjun, ever the history buff, was fascinated by the stories behind each chapel, the legacies of the wealthy Florentine families who had commissioned them.

Of course, as a chef, I was especially keen to see Michelangelo’s crucifix, a work he created in his youth while he was housed at the Santo Spirito priory. The crucifix is made of wood and was given to the church as a thank you for the hospitality Michelangelo received. It’s a stunning piece, and it was amazing to see it in person.

Leaving the Basilica, we stepped into Piazza Santo Spirito, the heart of the Oltrarno district. The piazza was alive with activity. Locals chatted animatedly, children played, and vendors hawked their wares. Despite the chill of January, the atmosphere was warm and inviting.


Experience the vibrant heart of Florence at Piazza Santo Spirito, a charming square filled with art, culture, and local life.
We strolled through the piazza, soaking in the ambiance. I noticed a small group of people gathered near a fountain, listening to a street musician playing a lively tune on his guitar. Anjali, always drawn to music, stopped to listen, tapping her feet to the rhythm. Arjun, meanwhile, was captivated by a group of artisans displaying their handmade leather goods. As we walked, I imagined what this piazza was like centuries ago. It has always been a place for the locals to meet, a place for commerce, and a place to relax.

For lunch, we decided to indulge in another culinary adventure at Ristorante Romantico il Paiolo. The restaurant had rave reviews, with many complimenting the romantic atmosphere. We were greeted warmly and shown to a cozy table. The restaurant was dimly lit, with candles flickering on each table, creating a warm and intimate ambiance. The aroma of Tuscan herbs and spices filled the air, making my stomach rumble with anticipation.


Experience authentic Tuscan flavors at Ristorante il Paiolo in Florence, where romance meets exceptional Italian dining.
We started with an appetizer of *crostini toscani*, toasted bread topped with chicken liver pate. The pate was rich and creamy, a delightful contrast to the crispy bread. For our main courses, I ordered the *bistecca alla fiorentina*, a thick-cut steak grilled to perfection. Anjali chose the *pappardelle al ragu di cinghiale*, wide ribbon pasta with wild boar sauce. Arjun, never one to shy away from seafood, opted for the *spaghetti alle vongole*, spaghetti with clams.

My steak was a carnivore's dream, tender and juicy, with a perfectly charred crust. Anjali's pasta was equally impressive, the wild boar sauce rich and flavorful. Arjun's spaghetti was a testament to the freshness of the seafood, the clams sweet and succulent. As we ate, we savored each bite, appreciating the skill and passion that went into each dish. It was a culinary experience we would not soon forget.

After lunch, we decided to explore the shops around Piazza Santo Spirito. Oltrarno is known for its artisan workshops, and I was eager to see the local crafts. We wandered through the narrow streets, peeking into workshops where leather workers, potters, and jewelers plied their trade. Anjali was particularly interested in a small leather shop, where a craftsman was meticulously hand-stitching a handbag. She admired his skill and dedication, remarking on the quality of the leather.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to take a break at Friends Pub. This cozy pub offered a welcome respite from the cold January air. We settled into a comfortable corner, ordering a round of drinks. I chose a local craft beer, while Anjali opted for a glass of Chianti. Arjun, ever the adventurous one, ordered a cocktail with a name I couldn't pronounce.


Experience the vibrant nightlife of Florence at Friends Pub, where locals and tourists unite over drinks and good times.
As we sipped our drinks, we chatted about our day. We agreed that Oltrarno had exceeded our expectations. It was a place of authentic charm, where history, art, and culinary delights intertwined. It was a side of Florence that we would cherish forever. Plus, it gave me a few ideas to take back to my own restaurant in Leipzig. Perhaps I could put a Florentine spin on some of my Nepali dishes.

Before heading back to the Strozzi Palace Hotel, we made one last stop at Piazza Santo Spirito. The piazza was now bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. Locals gathered, sharing stories and laughter. It was a scene that perfectly captured the essence of Oltrarno: a vibrant community, a rich history, and an unyielding spirit.


Experience the heart of Florence at Strozzi Palace Hotel, where elegance meets comfort, and iconic landmarks are just a stroll away.
Tomorrow, we're planning a trip with Angie on the Tuscan Wine Tours. I'm hoping to bring some of the unique flavors of Tuscany back home with me. I'm sure Anjali and Arjun are looking forward to it as well!

As I reflect on our day, I realize that the true beauty of Florence lies not only in its iconic landmarks but also in its hidden corners, in the authentic experiences that await those who venture off the beaten path. Oltrarno is a testament to this, a neighborhood that has retained its soul despite the passage of time. And as I drift off to sleep, I can still taste the flavors of Florence, hear the sounds of the piazza, and feel the warmth of the Florentine spirit.

Today was a reminder of why I love to travel: to experience new cultures, to taste new flavors, and to create memories that will last a lifetime.