Exploring the Historic Charm of Siena with My Spouse

Off the Beaten Path in Siena

Today, Elena and I ventured beyond the bustling Piazza del Campo to uncover some of Siena's lesser-known treasures. It was a day filled with architectural marvels, historical insights, and delightful culinary experiences. We started early, eager to explore the city's hidden corners and immerse ourselves in its rich cultural tapestry. Our adventure led us to panoramic viewpoints, Renaissance palaces, and ancient fountains, each telling a unique story of Siena's past.

Our first stop was the Facciatone, and what a way to start the day! It's part of the unfinished New Cathedral project, and climbing to the top offers the most breathtaking panoramic views of Siena. The climb itself was an experience, navigating the narrow, winding staircase, but the reward was more than worth the effort. From up high, Siena unfolded before us like a medieval map, with its terracotta rooftops, winding streets, and the iconic Torre del Mangia piercing the sky. I took several photos, trying to capture the sheer beauty of the cityscape, but no image could truly do it justice. Elena was particularly fascinated by the Duomo, its intricate details even more striking from this vantage point. I could almost imagine the ambitious vision the city had in the 14th century, aiming to create one of the largest cathedrals in Christendom. It's a shame the plague halted the construction, but what remains is a testament to Siena's grandeur.


Discover the stunning Facciatone in Siena, Italy - a Gothic treasure offering panoramic views and a glimpse into the city's medieval past.

The beauty of Siena lies not only in its famous landmarks but also in the hidden corners that whisper tales of its rich history and enduring spirit.

Next on our list was the Palazzo Piccolomini. This Renaissance palace, also known as Palazzo Todeschini Piccolomini, stands as a testament to the city's rich history and its connections to the papacy. Commissioned by the powerful Piccolomini family, it's a masterpiece of architectural design. As we approached the palace, I was immediately struck by its elegant façade, characterized by harmonious proportions and refined detailing. The palace, built between 1460 and 1495, recalls the Palazzi Medici Riccardi and Ruccellai in Florence, with the rough ashlar block surface and mullioned windows. We learned that the palace was erected by Giacomo and Andrea Piccolomini, nephews of Pope Pius II, with designs requested from Bernardo Rossellino. The sculptural additions by Antonio Federighi and Urbano da Cortona added to its splendor. Elena, with her keen eye for detail, pointed out the Piccolomini coat of arms above the entrance – the Papal tiara and keys with a tassel, plus a shield with five crescents on a cross. Today, the palace serves as a contemporary art gallery and museum. We explored the spacious courtyards, adorned with graceful arches and elegant loggias, offering a sense of serenity and tranquility. From the second floor, the terrace provided a stunning view of the Duomo, and the rooftop loggia offered a panoramic vista of the surrounding landscape. It was fascinating to imagine Galileo Galilei, a guest of Archbishop Ascanio Piccolomini, observing the moon from a loggia here in 1633 after being condemned by the Inquisition.


Explore the magnificent Palazzo Piccolomini in Siena, a historical landmark showcasing Renaissance architecture and rich cultural heritage.

After immersing ourselves in Renaissance splendor, we decided to seek out the Fonte Nuova D'Ovile. This ancient fountain, located on Via Pian d'Ovile, is a hidden gem that dates back to the 14th century. As we walked along the narrow street, we could hear the gentle sound of flowing water, a welcome respite from the summer heat. The fountain was built between 1296 and 1303, designed by Camaino di Crescentino and Sozzo Rustichini. It features a double ogival arch in bricks, leading to a large basin that was once used for watering animals and as a washhouse. The architecture shows the influence of Cistercian Gothic style. Elena and I took a moment to appreciate the historical significance of this site, imagining the countless generations who had relied on its waters. It's amazing to think that this fountain was once the lifeblood of the community, providing essential water for drinking and other daily needs. I took a photo of Elena standing by the fountain, the ancient stones providing a beautiful backdrop. These bottini, medieval underground aqueducts, were the main water supply for Siena until 1914. The Fonte Nuova d'Ovile is supplied by an independent bottino that extends 807.50 meters to the northwest. It was a tranquil escape from the bustling city streets, and a reminder of the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Sienese people.


Explore the stunning Fonte Nuova D'Ovile in Siena, a Renaissance fountain that beautifully blends history, architecture, and tranquility amidst the bustling city.

For breakfast, we started our day at Osteria Il Grattacielo dal 1840. This charming osteria is known for its traditional Sienese dishes and cozy atmosphere. The restaurant is located in an old building with brick walls and wooden beams, giving it a rustic and authentic feel. We enjoyed a simple breakfast of fresh pastries and cappuccino, soaking in the atmosphere and preparing ourselves for the day's adventures. I had read mixed reviews about the restaurant, but we were keen to try it ourselves. The prices were reasonable, and the ambiance was indeed exotic, as many reviewers had noted. While it may not have been the most outstanding meal of our trip, it was a pleasant start to our day.


Discover authentic Tuscan flavors at Osteria Il Grattacielo dal 1840 in Siena—where tradition meets culinary excellence.

Lunch was at Antica Trattoria Papei, a historic restaurant located in Piazza del Mercato. This trattoria is known for its traditional Tuscan cuisine and lively atmosphere. We arrived hungry and ready to sample some of the local specialties. I ordered the pici with tomato sauce and garlic, while Elena opted for the grilled vegetables. The pici, homemade thick spaghetti, was delicious, and Elena enjoyed her vegetables. The service was friendly and efficient, and we enjoyed watching the hustle and bustle of the market square. The trattoria has a typical Italian feel, and the staff were welcoming. Although they are known for grilled meat, there were still great options for Elena. It was a perfect spot for a midday meal, providing a taste of authentic Sienese cuisine.


Experience the heart of Tuscany at Antica Trattoria Papei – where authentic Italian flavors come alive in every dish.

For dinner, we decided to try Compagnia dei Vinattieri, a restaurant known for its exceptional food, attentive staff, and inviting ambiance. The restaurant is located in Via delle Terme and has garnered rave reviews for its original menu and beautiful plating of meals. I was excited to try their extensive wine list, which features a selection of Tuscan wines. We started with a selection of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by homemade pasta dishes. The food was indeed heavenly, and the service was impeccable. Elena and I shared a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, savoring the rich flavors and toasting to another wonderful day in Siena. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we felt like we were dining among friends. It was the perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience authentic Italian dining at Compagnia dei Vinattieri in Siena – where tradition meets taste in every bite.

Before dinner, we took some time to explore Casa della Pelle, a leather shop known for its handmade leather items. As someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, I was eager to see what they had to offer. The shop was filled with the rich scent of leather, and I was immediately drawn to the beautiful bags, wallets, and belts on display. Elena was particularly interested in the purses, admiring the elegant designs and high-quality materials. I ended up purchasing a leather belt, while Elena found a small coin purse that she loved. The artisan, Paolo Infunti, has been crafting leather goods by hand for decades, preserving the traditions of Sienese craftsmanship. It was a pleasure to support a local business and take home a piece of authentic Italian artistry.


Explore the artistry of handmade leather goods at Casa della Pelle, Siena's premier destination for exquisite bags and accessories.

As we walked back to Hotel Minerva, we reflected on the day's adventures. We had uncovered hidden gems, savored delicious cuisine, and immersed ourselves in the rich culture of Siena. It was a day that reminded me of the importance of venturing beyond the well-trodden path and discovering the unique stories that each city has to offer. I feel so lucky to be able to experience all of this with Elena. I am glad that we took the train here, I would not want to drive through these narrow streets!


Discover comfort and convenience at Hotel Minerva, situated in the heart of Siena, close to attractions, dining, and public transport.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Siena's historical sites, including the Loggia della Mercanzia, the Orto Botanico dell'Università di Siena, and the Chigi Piccolomini Palace. We'll also be trying out new restaurants, including Osteria degli Svitati, Ristorante San Desiderio, and Osteria Le Sorelline. And perhaps we'll end the day with a drink at Bar Impero Siena. I am looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings!

What a wonderful day! I am so happy to be able to share these experiences with you all. I hope that my stories inspire you to explore the hidden corners of the places you visit and discover the unique stories that each city has to offer. Until tomorrow!