Exploring the Historic Charm of Siena with My Spouse

Day 8: Beyond the Walls of Siena

Today was all about venturing beyond the familiar embrace of Siena's city walls. Elena and I were eager to explore the surrounding Tuscan countryside, a tapestry of rolling hills, vineyards, and hidden historical treasures. It was a day of contrasts – serene contemplation, historical immersion, and a dash of exhilarating adventure.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante Al Mangia. The location, right on the Piazza del Campo, is fantastic. We fueled up with some strong Italian coffee and pastries, ready for our first stop: the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore.

The drive to the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore was simply breathtaking. As we wound our way through the Crete Senesi, the landscape transformed into a surreal panorama of gray, undulating hills, almost lunar in appearance. The abbey itself is perched atop a ridge, a beacon of serenity amidst this stark beauty. The contrast was striking, the abbey's terracotta buildings and lush cypress trees a vibrant splash of life against the muted tones of the surrounding hills.

The Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the mother house of the Benedictine Olivetan monks, is a place where time seems to stand still. As we stepped through the entrance, we were immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of profound peace. The air was filled with the scent of ancient stone and the faint echo of Gregorian chants. The abbey's history is palpable; founded in 1313 by the wealthy Sienese Bernardo Tolomei, who sought a life of solitude and prayer in what was then known as the Desert of Accona.

The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly the Great Cloister, adorned with frescoes by Luca Signorelli and Il Sodoma. These frescoes, depicting the life of St. Benedict, are a masterpiece of Renaissance art. Signorelli's dramatic and expressive style brought the stories to life, while Il Sodoma's softer, more lyrical approach added a touch of grace and elegance. Elena, with her keen eye for art, was particularly captivated by the intricate details and the vibrant colors, commenting on how well-preserved they were after so many centuries. We spent a good hour wandering through the cloister, lost in the beauty and the history.

The beauty of the Tuscan landscape lies not only in its visual appeal but also in its ability to evoke a sense of timelessness and spiritual reflection.

After soaking in the tranquility of the abbey, we were ready for a change of pace. Our next destination was Castello di Belcaro, a medieval castle just a short drive from Siena. The transition from the serene abbey to the imposing castle was a stark reminder of the region's turbulent past. Built in the 11th century as a fortification, the Castello di Belcaro has witnessed centuries of battles, sieges, and power struggles.

As we approached the castle, its imposing stone walls and soaring towers loomed against the skyline. The castle has been owned by several prominent Sienese families, including the Marescotti, Salimbeni, and Salvini. It was even donated to St. Catherine of Siena, who transformed it into a convent. Later, in the 16th century, the Sienese banker Crescenzio Turamini commissioned the famous architect Baldassarre Peruzzi to renovate the castle, giving it its current Renaissance appearance. Even more fascinating is the legend that the lady of the castle, while waiting for her lord to return from the war, strolled along the walls with her child in her arms; when she finally saw her husband, she opened her arms to him, causing the child to fall into the garden below. In despair, she cried out to her husband: 'Sei bello, ma mi costi caro!' (You are handsome, but you cost me dearly!), hence Belcaro.

Walking through the castle's corridors, we could almost hear the echoes of knights, nobles, and the clash of swords. The panoramic views from the ramparts were simply stunning, offering a sweeping vista of the surrounding Tuscan landscape. Elena, ever the romantic, imagined what it must have been like to live in such a place, with its rich history and dramatic beauty. The castle is also known for hosting cultural events and exhibitions, showcasing local art and traditions. I made a mental note to check their schedule for future visits.

For lunch, we stopped at Ristorante Taverna Di Cecco, a cozy and traditional restaurant in Siena. We shared some pici con ragù di cinghiale, a local specialty, and a delicious vegetable risotto. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the staff was incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. I remembered a review I had read that mentioned the restaurant being family-run, and it certainly had that feel. It was the perfect spot to refuel after our morning of exploration.

After lunch, it was time for some adrenaline-pumping fun. We had booked an afternoon quad biking excursion with Tuscany Adventure - Escursioni in Quad Siena, Toscana, Podere Fornace. I must admit, I was a bit apprehensive at first, as I had never ridden a quad bike before. Elena, on the other hand, was thrilled at the prospect of tearing through the Tuscan countryside.

Our guide, a young and enthusiastic local, gave us a thorough safety briefing and a quick lesson on how to operate the quad bikes. Soon, we were off, following him along dirt tracks and winding trails through the hills. The scenery was absolutely incredible – vineyards, olive groves, and fields of golden wheat stretching as far as the eye could see. The feeling of the wind in our hair and the sun on our faces was exhilarating. Elena was right; it was an amazing experience!

There were moments when I felt like I was channeling my inner Miguel, reliving his youthful adventures on his mountain bike back in Stratford. The quad bike handled the rough terrain with ease, and I quickly gained confidence in my ability to navigate the trails. We even splashed through a few muddy puddles, much to Elena's delight.

We learned that Tuscany Adventures offers a range of quad bike excursions, from one-hour tours for beginners to longer, more challenging routes that include wine tasting at local vineyards. We opted for a two-hour tour that took us through some of the most scenic parts of the Crete Senesi. I'm already thinking about booking another tour, perhaps one that includes a visit to a local winery.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the Tuscan landscape, we made our way back to Siena. We stopped briefly at Bar Il Palio for a quick drink before heading back to the hotel. The bar offers a great view of the Piazza del Campo, and it was the perfect spot to relax and reflect on our day's adventures. I had read mixed reviews of the bar, but we found the service to be friendly and the atmosphere to be pleasant.

For dinner, we decided to try Tre Cristi Enoteca Ristorante, a hidden gem known for its seafood dishes. The restaurant had a cozy and intimate atmosphere, with ancient hand-carved communal tables and soft candlelight. We shared a delicious seafood risotto and some perfectly cooked grilled prawns. The wine list was extensive, and we chose a crisp local white wine that complemented our meal perfectly. Elena particularly enjoyed the chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, declaring it the perfect end to a perfect day.

As we walked back to Hotel Minerva, hand in hand, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences we had shared today. From the serene beauty of the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore to the historical grandeur of Castello di Belcaro and the exhilarating fun of quad biking through the Tuscan countryside, it had been a day of contrasts and unforgettable moments. Tomorrow, we plan to explore Palazzo Chigi-Saracini, Fontebranda, and Piazza del Mercato. I'm excited to see what new adventures await us in this beautiful city.

That evening, as I was writing my blog post, Elena was reading about the Palio di Siena. It turns out that Siena is preparing to welcome the Jubilee 2025 with a calendar of events. We are thinking about extending our stay to experience the Palio. I will keep you posted!

It's moments like these, shared with the one you love, that make life truly special. As I always say, life is about the journey, not the destination, and today's journey through the Tuscan countryside was one for the books.


Discover comfort and convenience at Hotel Minerva, situated in the heart of Siena, close to attractions, dining, and public transport.