Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Water Gods

Today was a day of gentle exploration, a serene drift through the heart of Kumano Kodo. After several days of rigorous hiking, my friends and I decided to embrace a different kind of pilgrimage – one that involved gliding along the tranquil waters of the Kumano River. It felt like a deserved pause, a chance to absorb the spiritual essence of this ancient landscape from a unique vantage point. I was eager to see what stories the river had to tell.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The fresh, locally sourced ingredients were a delightful change, and the strong coffee fortified us for the day's adventures. Jan particularly enjoyed the traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Aoife opted for a more Western-style toast with homemade jam. I savored every bite, knowing that the energy would be much needed for the day ahead.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With our appetites sated, we made our way to Doro Kyo Gorge. The name itself, evoking a sense of mystery and ancient power, had drawn me in from the moment I first read about it. The gorge is part of the Yoshino-Kumano National Park, known for its dramatic rock formations and clear emerald waters. As we approached, the air grew cooler, carrying with it the scent of damp earth and the faint, sweet fragrance of the surrounding forests.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.

The gorge was formed by erosion over many years, creating a stunning landscape of bluffs and uniquely shaped rocks. The towering rock formations rising over 50 meters above the river were breathtaking. The sheer scale of the natural architecture made me feel incredibly small, a mere speck in the grand tapestry of time. The sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, casting dappled shadows on the water and the moss-covered stones, creating an ethereal atmosphere.

The river is a constant companion on this pilgrimage, a reminder of the journey's flow and the enduring power of nature.

Next on our itinerary was the Kumano Boat River Cruise. This was an experience I had eagerly anticipated, as it promised a chance to retrace the steps – or rather, the waterways – of emperors and nobles from centuries past. The Kumano River has long served as a vital part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, connecting Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

As we boarded the traditional wooden flat-bottom boat, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence. This was no ordinary tourist excursion; it was a journey through history, a chance to connect with the spiritual heritage of Japan. The boat gently glided onto the water, and we were soon drifting along the serene current.

Our guide, a kind woman with a wealth of knowledge about the area, shared stories of the river's significance, pointing out landmarks and explaining their cultural context. She told us about the ancient rituals performed on these waters, the prayers offered to the river gods, and the countless pilgrims who had sought solace and enlightenment along its banks.

The scenery was simply mesmerizing. Towering cliffs lined the riverbanks, their surfaces adorned with lush vegetation. Waterfalls cascaded down the rocks, their gentle roar adding to the symphony of nature. We passed the bell-shaped Tsurigane-ishi Rock, with the guide explaining the local belief that the world will end when the rock falls. The air was clean and crisp, and the only sounds were the gentle lapping of water against the boat and the occasional call of a bird.

At one point, our guide treated us to a performance on the shinobue flute, a traditional Japanese instrument. The haunting melody echoed through the gorge, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. It was a moment of pure magic, a reminder of the deep connection between art, nature, and spirituality in Japanese culture.

Lunch was a simple affair at Takehara, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. I opted for the meharizushi, a local specialty of rice balls wrapped in pickled mustard leaves. It was a burst of flavor, a perfect representation of the region's culinary heritage. Aoife, ever the adventurous one, tried the local fish, while Jan enjoyed a comforting bowl of udon noodles.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

After lunch, we visited the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. It was a delightful place, offering a variety of local crafts and souvenirs. I picked up a few small trinkets for my family back in Warsaw, while Aoife found a beautiful hand-painted fan. Jan, of course, was drawn to the history books, eager to learn more about the region's past.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

We then explored the sacred mountaintop sanctuary of Nachisan. From there, we enjoyed refreshing views of Nachi Falls, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Seiganto-ji Temple, as well as a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean in the distance. The Nachi Falls is the tallest waterfall in Japan. The area around Nachisan has been a site of natural worship since the 4th century.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves at Onigajō cliff Center for dinner. The restaurant offered stunning views of the coastline, and the fresh seafood was a welcome treat. We shared stories and laughter, reminiscing about the day's adventures.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that the Kumano River had indeed shared its stories with us. It had whispered tales of emperors and pilgrims, of ancient rituals and natural wonders. It had reminded us of the importance of slowing down, of connecting with nature, and of appreciating the rich cultural heritage that surrounds us.

Tomorrow, we will be returning to the trails, with plans to cross the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass and walk part of the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. I am looking forward to seeing what new adventures await us, what new stories the Kumano Kodo has to tell. But for now, I am content to carry the echoes of the river in my heart, a reminder of the gentle power and enduring beauty of this sacred land.

Jan is already asleep, snoring softly beside me. Aoife is sketching in her travel journal, capturing the essence of the day in her unique artistic style. As for me, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and anticipation, eager to see what tomorrow will bring. Goodnight from Kumano Kodo.