Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Prayers

As my journey through the Kumano Kodo draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound sense of peace and spiritual connection I've discovered along these ancient paths. Today, the final day of our pilgrimage, was dedicated to soaking in the last vestiges of this sacred land, visiting the iconic Seiganto-ji Temple and the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine. It was a day filled with quiet contemplation and a deep appreciation for the enduring spirit of Kumano Kodo.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The cafe, nestled in the heart of Kumanogawacho Hitari, offered a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, perfect for fueling up before a day of exploration. I savored a freshly brewed coffee, enjoying the warmth of the homestay and the charming blend of traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comfort. It reminded me of the simple pleasures in life and how much I appreciate discovering hidden gems like this. Ms. Uzawa, who opened the cafe in 2014, has created a truly special place. Sharing stories with my friends over breakfast, we reminisced about our adventures, the laughter, and the occasional missteps along the way. It’s moments like these that I cherish, the shared experiences that bind us closer together. Jan would have loved the coffee here, I thought, making a mental note to try and recreate the taste for him back in Warsaw.

Pilgrimage is about more than just the physical journey; it's about the journey within.

With renewed energy, we set out for Seiganto-ji Temple, known as the Temple of Crossing the Blue Shore. As we approached, the iconic three-story pagoda came into view, set against the backdrop of the majestic Nachi Falls. The sight was breathtaking, a perfect blend of nature and human artistry. Founded in the 4th century by Ragyō Shōnin, a monk from India, the temple has a rich history, having been rebuilt by shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587 after being burned down. It stands as a testament to the enduring syncretism of Shinto and Buddhist traditions in Japan.

Exploring the temple grounds, I learned about its significance as the first stop on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a journey to 33 temples across the Kansai region. The Main Hall, Nyoirin-do, is dedicated to the goddess of mercy, Kannon. The intricate details of the architecture and the serene atmosphere invited quiet contemplation. I found myself drawn to the Ryuhoden (Treasure Hall), where historical items like mirrors, statues, and sutra cylinders are displayed, artifacts unearthed near Nachi Falls in 1918. It was fascinating to see these remnants of the past, each telling a story of faith and devotion.

Next, we visited the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. This treasure hall houses an impressive collection of historical artifacts, including ancient scrolls and religious items that offer a unique insight into Shinto practices and the rich history of the Kumano region. As we wandered through the halls, we were surrounded by the essence of Japanese spirituality and tradition, creating an enriching experience. The Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a 500-year-old graphic representation of the shrine and its cosmology, was particularly striking. It was used by Kumano bikuni (nuns) to preach the Kumano faith.
The Treasure Hall also contains an extensive collection of chronicles and manuscripts, a bronze seal, and a wooden printing block. The printing block was used to make Karasu Goohoin, paper amulets featuring 72 crows spelling out Priceless Seal of Nachi Waterfall. Mirrors, symbols of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess, were also on display, once used on portable shrines during the Fire Festival. The sacred sword, believed to have descended from the heavens, was another highlight, embodying the syncretic Shugendo practices.
For lunch, we stopped at Yorozuya Eatery, a charming Japanese restaurant in Totsukawa. This eatery is known for its traditional dishes made with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. I opted for a traditional Japanese set meal, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service made it a memorable experience. It reminded me of sharing meals with Jan and Aoife back home, the simple joy of good food and good company.

In the late afternoon, we decided to celebrate the end of our journey at Why Kumano, a local bar. This cozy spot, located near Kii-Katsuura Station, offered a selection of local craft beers and sake. As we sipped our drinks, we reminisced about the challenges and triumphs of the past ten days, the breathtaking landscapes, and the moments of quiet reflection. It was a perfect way to bid farewell to this sacred land, a toast to the enduring spirit of Kumano Kodo.

As I prepare to leave Kumano Kodo, I carry with me a profound sense of gratitude and inspiration. This pilgrimage has been more than just a physical journey; it has been a journey of the soul, a chance to connect with the ancient wisdom and natural beauty of Japan. I am reminded of a quote I once read in a travel guidebook:

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

And as I take my next step, I know that the memories and lessons of Kumano Kodo will stay with me always. While tomorrow marks the end of this particular adventure, I know that the experience of Kumano Kodo will continue to resonate within me, shaping my perspective and enriching my life in countless ways. I look forward to sharing these stories with Jan and Aoife, hoping to inspire them to embark on their own journeys of discovery. Until next time, Kumano Kodo, farewell and thank you for the memories.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.