Pilgrimage Through the Ancient Trails of Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Ancient Pilgrims and Whispers in Stone

Today was a day of contrasts, a blend of physical challenge and quiet contemplation. The ancient trails of Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route called to us, followed by an exploration into the cool depths of a limestone cave. It was a day where the echoes of pilgrims past met the silent whispers of the earth, leaving me with a sense of awe and a deeper connection to this land.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. I savored every bite of the local bagels and muffins, knowing we had a long day of hiking ahead. The cafe itself was charming, a renovated sake store warehouse that exuded a sense of history and warmth. It’s the perfect spot to fuel up before hitting the trails, and I made a mental note to try their lunch set sometime. Jan, ever the planner, had made a reservation the day before, ensuring we wouldn't miss out on their delicious offerings.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With our stomachs full and our spirits high, we set out to tackle a portion of the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route. This section of the Kumano Kodo is known as the most rugged. The Kohechi route is a mountainous path that links Koyasan and Kumano Hongu. As we started our ascent, I couldn’t help but think of the monks who walked these paths centuries ago, seeking enlightenment. The air was thick with humidity, and the cicadas buzzed relentlessly, creating a symphony of summer sounds. The trail was steep in places, testing our stamina, but the towering cedar and cypress trees provided welcome shade.

The path of a pilgrim is not just a physical journey, but a journey of the soul, a quest for meaning and connection.

I found myself reflecting on my own life, my journey from Westport, Ireland, to Warsaw, Poland, and now here, on this ancient path in Japan. It’s funny how travel can bring things into perspective, stripping away the unnecessary and revealing what truly matters. I thought about Aoife, back in Warsaw, probably working on one of her intricate braids or sketching in her notebook. I miss her adventurous spirit, but I know she’s off on her own path, discovering her own truths.

As we walked, Jan pointed out various landmarks and explained their significance. He’s a font of historical knowledge, my own personal walking encyclopedia. He told me that the Kohechi route was formulated in the 13th-14th centuries and served as the shortest way connecting Koyasan and Kumano Hongu Taisha. We passed small, weathered Jizo statues, their faces softened by time and the elements. These little guardians seemed to watch over us, offering silent blessings. The trail was less crowded than other sections of the Kumano Kodo, adding to the sense of solitude and contemplation.

After a few hours of hiking, we stopped for lunch at Kakinoate. I had packed some onigiri (rice balls) and Jan had some local pickled vegetables, umeboshi. We sat on a fallen log, enjoying our simple meal and the stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The air was fresh and clean, and the only sounds were the rustling of leaves and the occasional birdsong.

In the afternoon, we descended from the mountains and made our way to the Totsui Limestone Cave. After the physical exertion of the morning, the cool, dark interior of the cave was a welcome respite. The entrance to the cave is through a mine shaft. The cave was formed over 250 million years ago. The cave was used as a limestone quarry until 1945.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

As we ventured deeper, we were surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by soft lighting. The formations were otherworldly, resembling frozen waterfalls or bizarre alien landscapes. Jan, ever the geologist at heart, explained how the cave was formed and how the mineral deposits created the unique colors and shapes. We squeezed through narrow passages, ducked under low ceilings, and marveled at the Bee's Nest Rock. I felt like a child again, exploring a hidden world, my imagination running wild. The cave is not very long, only about 100 meters, but it is full of unique formations.

The Totsui Limestone Cave was discovered during limestone mining operations in the early twentieth century. Mining stopped when the cave was discovered. The main chambers and noteworthy features are named to reflect the images they conjure. The calcite formations are whiteish with a hint of color, typically orange, red, or black. The cave maintains a constant temperature of 15°C.

Emerging from the cave, blinking in the sunlight, I felt a sense of wonder and rejuvenation. It’s amazing how the earth can create such beauty, hidden beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered.

For dinner, we decided to try Akihei. This charming restaurant, founded in 1870, has a traditional Japanese-style interior. I had heard that they offer vegan and vegetarian options with advanced notice, which is always a plus. The owner's wife is fluent in English and Chinese, which made ordering easy. I opted for a vegetarian set meal, while Jan indulged in some fresh sashimi. The food was exquisite, each dish a work of art, and the atmosphere was serene and inviting. The friendly hosts and chefs provided valuable tips on local attractions. I was particularly impressed by the homemade matcha ice cream.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

To cap off the evening, we stopped by Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for a nightcap. This unique establishment is a combination of guesthouse, winery, and Italian restaurant. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is an Italian chef who came to Japan in 2013. He grows his own vegetables and makes his own wine. The restaurant was listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. We sat at the bar, sipping on a glass of local wine and chatting with the friendly staff. The ambiance was cozy and welcoming, and I felt a sense of contentment as I reflected on the day’s adventures.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

As I write this, back at our accommodation, my legs are tired but my heart is full. Today was a reminder of the beauty and wonder that exists in the world, both on the surface and hidden beneath. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Yunomine Onsen Yuzutsu and Kumano Kodo Park. I’m looking forward to soaking in the healing waters of the onsen and exploring more of this incredible region. Goodnight from Kumano Kodo.