Solo Adventure in Kerlingarfjöll: Embracing Iceland's Geothermal Wonders

Highland Echoes

Today was a day of chasing the echoes of Iceland's wild heart. It's funny, isn't it? How you can travel to the most remote corners of the world and still find yourself drawn to the stories etched into the landscape. After a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður, I set off to explore, eager to uncover the hidden gems that Kerlingarfjöll had in store.

The morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of geothermal activity and the promise of adventure. I made sure I had my notebook and camera ready – wouldn't want to miss a single detail of today's escapades. As much as I enjoy the solitude of solo travel, I couldn't help but wish Jan were here to share these moments with me. He would have loved the history and folklore interwoven into every nook and cranny of this place.

My first stop was Gýgjarfoss waterfall. It's not the biggest or most famous of Iceland's waterfalls, but there was something undeniably captivating about it. The water, originating from the Hofsjökull glacier, cascaded down with a gentle roar, creating a mesmerizing display of nature's power. The sun was playing hide-and-seek behind the clouds, casting an ethereal glow on the surrounding landscape. I spent a good hour there, simply soaking in the beauty and tranquility. It was easy to see why this place is a favorite among photographers – the mountains in the background, the fascinating gorge downstream, and the glaciers in the distance all combined to create a truly breathtaking scene.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Gýgjarfoss Waterfall, a serene gem in Iceland's stunning highlands, perfect for nature lovers and adventurers.

The land remembers what we forget.

After Gýgjarfoss, I decided to visit Eyvindarhellir Cave. The drive there was an adventure in itself, navigating the rugged terrain and marveling at the vastness of the Icelandic highlands. As I drove south on Route 35, then onto Route 541, I felt a sense of anticipation building inside me. Who was Eyvindur, and what stories did this cave hold? I parked the car and hiked the short trail to the cave entrance. The landscape was starkly beautiful, with volcanic rock formations and patches of vibrant green moss. The cave itself was shrouded in an air of mystery, its dark depths beckoning me to explore.

Stepping inside Eyvindarhellir Cave was like stepping back in time. The cave is named after Fjalla-Eyvindur, Iceland's most famous outlaw, who sought refuge here with his wife, Halla, in the 18th century. It's hard to imagine living in such harsh conditions, but Eyvindur and Halla were resourceful and resilient, surviving in the highlands for many years. As I wandered through the cave's winding passages, I could almost feel their presence, their struggles, and their unwavering spirit. I thought of Jan and our life together in Warsaw. We have our own challenges, of course, but nothing like the hardships faced by Eyvindur and Halla. Their story is a testament to the human capacity for survival and the enduring power of love.


Explore the enchanting Eyvindarhellir Cave, a natural preserve showcasing Iceland's stunning geological wonders and rich folklore.

The cave was formed by volcanic activity, and the rock formations were truly fascinating. It was cool and dark inside, a welcome respite from the sun. I explored every nook and cranny, imagining what it must have been like for Eyvindur and Halla to call this place home. It was more than just a shelter; it was a sanctuary, a place where they could escape the outside world and find solace in each other's company. I spent hours exploring, letting my imagination run wild with the stories of Iceland's past. The solitude was broken only by the occasional rustle of wind outside and the echo of my own footsteps.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back to Ásgarður for dinner. The warm meal and cozy atmosphere were a welcome contrast to the ruggedness of the highlands. I enjoyed the simple pleasure of a hot meal and the quiet company of my thoughts. I thought about Aoife, and how much she would have enjoyed exploring the cave. I must remember to tell her all about it when I get back to Warsaw. It's moments like these that make travel so rewarding – the chance to connect with history, nature, and oneself.

Before heading to bed, I spent some time at the Highland Base shop, picking up a few essentials and a small souvenir to remind me of my time in Kerlingarfjöll. As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. The waterfalls, the caves, the stories – they all combined to create a tapestry of memories that I will cherish for years to come.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Hraunfossar Waterfall and Barnafoss. But before that, I’ll enjoy another breakfast at Ásgarður. I might even check out the bar at Kerlingarfjöll in the evening, perhaps toasting to the adventures yet to come. For now, though, I'm content to rest and recharge, ready for whatever tomorrow may bring. The Icelandic highlands have a way of rejuvenating the soul, and I'm eager to see what other wonders await.

The journey continues, and I can't wait to share it all with you.

A Moment of Reflection

As I reflect on my day, I realize that travel is more than just seeing new places. It's about connecting with the stories and legends that shape a place's identity. It's about finding inspiration in the natural world and discovering new aspects of oneself. It's about embracing the unexpected and finding beauty in the simplest of things. And sometimes, it's about realizing what you've forgotten and what you need to remember. As I prepare for the next leg of my journey, I carry with me the lessons and memories of today, ready to embrace whatever lies ahead.

Evening Musings

As the day turned to dusk, I found myself reflecting on the unexpected connections I'd made, not with people, but with the land itself. There's a certain magic to Iceland, a way it seeps into your bones and changes the way you see the world. It's a place where the past feels present, where the stories of outlaws and trolls mingle with the steam rising from geothermal vents. It reminds me of the stories Jan used to tell me about Polish history and folklore, and how the land itself holds the memories of generations past. Tonight, I'll sleep soundly, dreaming of waterfalls and caves, and the enduring spirit of the Icelandic highlands. And I'll be sure to pack my power bank and sunscreen for tomorrow's adventures – a lesson learned from today's oversight. The sun may be setting on another day, but the journey is far from over.