Solo Adventure in Kerlingarfjöll: Embracing Iceland's Geothermal Wonders
Day 6: Chasing Waterfalls and Whispers of the Past: A Day at Hraunfossar and Barnafoss
Discover the beauty and folklore of Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls in Iceland, a journey through nature and haunting legends.
Echoes of Iceland's Soul
Today was a day of gentle whispers and roaring stories, a day spent in the company of water, stone, and the ancient Icelandic spirit. Leaving behind the stark beauty of Kerlingarfjöll for a day, I embarked on a journey to explore the famed waterfalls of Hraunfossar and Barnafoss, two distinct yet intertwined gems of Iceland's western region. It was a day for reflection, for connecting with the land, and for letting the tales of the past wash over me like the spray from the falls.
The morning began as it has every day here in the Highlands, with a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður. I find myself becoming quite fond of the simple, sustaining meals they offer. Fuelled up, I set off towards Hraunfossar, the promise of cascading beauty pulling me westward.
As I drove, the landscape transformed, the rugged highland terrain gradually giving way to softer, greener pastures. The weather, as ever in Iceland, was a mixed bag – a dance of sunshine and fleeting showers, a reminder of nature's capricious whims. I was grateful for my layers of warm clothing, a lesson learned early in this adventure.
Hraunfossar: A Thousand Streams of Serenity
Arriving at Hraunfossar was like stepping into a dream. Unlike the dramatic plunge of many Icelandic waterfalls, Hraunfossar is a sprawling tapestry of countless tiny streams emerging from beneath a vast lava field. The water, crystal clear and impossibly blue, trickles and tumbles over the dark, ancient rocks, creating a scene of ethereal beauty.
Discover the ethereal beauty of Hraunfossar Waterfall, where cascading waters and stunning landscapes create Iceland's hidden gem.
I spent a long time simply wandering along the well-maintained paths, letting my gaze follow the myriad streams as they converged and cascaded into the Hvítá River. The sound was a constant, soothing murmur, a gentle symphony of water and stone. I found a quiet spot to sit, pulled out my notebook, and attempted to capture the scene in words, but no amount of description could truly do it justice.
The beauty of Hraunfossar lies not in its grandeur, but in its delicate intricacy, a testament to the patient artistry of nature.
The Hallmundarhraun lava field, from which Hraunfossar springs, is a testament to Iceland's volcanic heart. Formed by an eruption beneath the Langjökull glacier, the lava field is a stark reminder of the powerful forces that have shaped this island. To think that beneath my feet lay a landscape forged in fire and ice, now softened by the gentle flow of water, was a humbling experience.
I learned that the name 'Hraunfossar' literally translates to 'Lava Falls,' which seems fitting given its unique origin. The falls have been a protected natural site since the late 1980s, a testament to their importance and beauty.
Barnafoss: The Children's Falls and a Tale of Sorrow
Just a short walk upstream from Hraunfossar lies Barnafoss, a waterfall with a very different character and a haunting tale to tell. Where Hraunfossar is serene and sprawling, Barnafoss is a torrent of raw power, the Hvítá River forced through a narrow canyon, churning and crashing against the rocks.
Explore Barnafoss, an enchanting waterfall in Iceland known for its unique beauty, rich folklore, and stunning natural surroundings.
The name 'Barnafoss' translates to 'Children's Falls,' and the story behind the name is a tragic one. Legend has it that two children from a nearby farm attempted to cross a stone bridge over the falls while their parents were at church. They tragically fell into the water and were lost. In her grief, their mother destroyed the bridge, cursing it so that no one else would suffer the same fate. Some versions of the story say she cast an Icelandic rune upon the bridge to ensure this. The bridge was later destroyed by an earthquake.
Standing there, watching the water rage through the canyon, it was easy to imagine the scene, to feel the weight of the tragedy. The falls seemed to roar with a sorrowful energy, a constant lament for the lost children. It was a stark contrast to the peaceful murmur of Hraunfossar, a reminder that even in the most beautiful places, there can be shadows of pain.
I spent some time reflecting on the story, thinking about the enduring power of grief and the way it can shape a landscape, imbuing it with a sense of loss that lingers for centuries. It made me think of Jan, and how we dealt with loss in our lives. We always found solace in each other and in nature, much like I was doing today.
The contrast between the two waterfalls was striking. Hraunfossar, with its gentle beauty and expansive vista, seemed to represent the resilience of nature, its ability to soften even the harshest landscapes. Barnafoss, with its turbulent power and tragic tale, seemed to embody the darker aspects of the human experience, the pain and loss that can never be fully erased.
Ásgarður and Evening Reflections
As the day drew to a close, I made my way back to Kerlingarfjöll, the image of the waterfalls still vivid in my mind. I stopped at Ásgarður for dinner, opting for a comforting bowl of lamb soup, a traditional Icelandic dish that seemed perfectly suited to the mood of the day. The weather in Kerlingarfjöll is expected to be snowy tomorrow, with temperatures below freezing, so I made sure to pack extra layers for my hike.
Back at my tent, as I write this, I'm struck by the way Iceland has a knack for weaving together beauty and sorrow, for reminding us that even in the most breathtaking landscapes, there are stories of loss and hardship. It's a land that demands respect, a land that challenges us to confront the full spectrum of human experience.
Tomorrow, I plan to embrace the challenge once more, venturing out to explore more of Kerlingarfjöll's hidden corners. The itinerary includes visits to Hjálparfoss and Haifoss waterfalls, and perhaps a stop at Vinnustofan Rosin - Icelandic Goods/Wool Sweater to pick up a warm souvenir. I anticipate more stunning vistas, more moments of quiet reflection, and perhaps, more whispers from the past.
Tonight, though, I'll fall asleep to the sound of the wind whipping through the highlands, the echoes of Hraunfossar and Barnafoss still ringing in my ears. It's a sound that speaks of both beauty and sorrow, a sound that is uniquely Icelandic, a sound that I know I'll carry with me long after I leave this magical island.
The experience reminded me of a quote by Halldór Laxness:
Iceland is so wild and so harsh that it is sometimes hard to believe that people can live there at all.
And yet, they do. They thrive, they create, they endure. And in their stories, in their music, in their art, they capture the essence of this land, its beauty, its sorrow, its resilience. It's an essence that I feel privileged to have glimpsed, even for a short time.
I'm looking forward to continuing my solo adventure here. It allows me to connect with nature on a deeper level and reflect on what sustainable living truly means. I think this is what I needed, this experience, to feel refreshed and ready for whatever comes next.
Goodnight from Kerlingarfjöll,
Róisín
Go to day 5
Chasing Waterfalls and Legends: A Day of Highland Exploration in Kerlingarfjöll
Go to day 7
Farewell, Iceland: A Day of Waterfalls and Woolen Dreams
Solo Adventure in Kerlingarfjöll: Embracing Iceland's Geothermal Wonders
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Explore Kerlingarfjöll's geothermal wonders in Iceland on a solo adventure, discovering nature's beauty and embracing sustainable travel.
Meet this Featured Explorer
Róisín Boyle
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Occupation:
Librarian specializing in Polish-Irish cultural exchange resources
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Country:
Poland
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Age:
53
Dia dhuit! I'm Róisín Boyle, a librarian from Ireland currently living in Warsaw, Poland, with my husband, Jan. By day, I curate resources on Polish-Irish cultural connections. By night (and weekends!), I document my travel adventures here on Evendo. At 53, I've learned that travel isn't just about seeing new places; it's about connecting with people, understanding cultures, and creating lasting memories. Join me as I share my experiences, blending historical insights with practical tips for culture enthusiasts and budget travelers alike. Expect a mix of personal anecdotes, sustainable travel advice, and a dash of Irish charm!
Interests:
- Genealogy
- Irish Mythology
- Polish Folklore
- Sustainable Living
- Cultural Exchange Programs
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