Solo Adventure in Kerlingarfjöll: Embracing Iceland's Geothermal Wonders

Whispers of Steam and Stone

Today was a day of stark contrasts and profound beauty, a testament to Iceland's ability to surprise and captivate at every turn. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Ásgarður, I ventured deeper into the highlands, eager to uncover the secrets hidden within the geothermal fields and volcanic craters that dot this otherworldly landscape. It was a day where the raw power of nature was on full display, reminding me of the delicate balance between serenity and untamed energy that defines this remarkable island.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður, fueling up for the adventures that lay ahead. The dining hall was bustling with fellow travelers, all eager to explore the wonders of Kerlingarfjöll. After a quick stop at the shop to replenish some supplies, I set off towards Hveravellir. The drive itself was an experience, the gravel road winding through valleys painted in hues of green and gold, framed by the majestic presence of distant glaciers. The weather was kind, a mix of sunshine and scattered clouds, perfect for exploring the highlands.

As I approached Hveravellir, the landscape transformed dramatically. Steam billowed from the earth, painting the air with an ethereal mist. The air was thick with the scent of sulfur, a primal aroma that spoke of the earth's inner workings. I parked the car and stepped out, immediately enveloped by the silence of the highlands, broken only by the bubbling of hot springs and the distant calls of birds. Hveravellir, nestled between the glaciers of Langjökull and Hofsjökull, is a geothermal oasis unlike any I’ve ever seen. It’s a place where hot springs meet icy landscapes, creating a surreal and breathtaking panorama. I felt a world away from Warsaw, a world away from Westport, my childhood home. Here, the only thing that mattered was the present moment, the feel of the cool air on my skin, and the sight of the steaming earth before me.


Experience the breathtaking geothermal beauty of Hveravellir, Iceland's captivating natural attraction and nature preserve.

I wandered through the geothermal area, marveling at the vibrant colors of the mineral deposits. The ground was a tapestry of red, yellow, and green, a testament to the unique chemistry at play beneath the surface. I followed a winding path past bubbling mud pots and hissing fumaroles, each one a reminder of the powerful forces shaping this landscape. One of the most striking features of Hveravellir is the natural hot pool, a small oasis of warmth amidst the rugged terrain. I watched as other travelers relaxed in the geothermal waters, their faces serene as they soaked in the healing warmth. While I didn’t partake myself today, I made a mental note to return with my bathing suit tomorrow if the weather permits.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are not about reaching a destination, but about surrendering to the unexpected detours along the way.

After spending a few hours exploring Hveravellir, I decided to venture towards Stúfur crater. The drive was a bit more challenging, the road becoming rougher and more remote. As I navigated the rocky terrain, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement, a thrill that comes with venturing off the beaten path. The landscape grew increasingly desolate, the vibrant colors of Hveravellir giving way to a more muted palette of gray and brown. The sky was overcast, casting a dramatic light over the rugged terrain.

Finally, I reached the parking area for Stúfur crater and embarked on a short hike to the summit. The trail was steep and rocky, but the views along the way were well worth the effort. As I climbed higher, the surrounding landscape unfolded before me, a vast expanse of volcanic rock and windswept plains. The air was crisp and clean, and the silence was profound.


Explore the stunning Stúfur Crater, a majestic volcanic formation in Iceland, perfect for hiking, photography, and experiencing natural beauty.

Reaching the rim of Stúfur crater, I was greeted by a breathtaking sight. The crater itself was a massive bowl of volcanic rock, its depths shrouded in shadow. The surrounding landscape stretched out in all directions, a panorama of mountains, valleys, and glaciers. I stood there for a long time, simply taking in the view, feeling a sense of awe and wonder at the scale and beauty of nature. It was a moment of profound connection, a reminder of the power and fragility of our planet.

According to local folklore, outlaws like Fjalla-Eyvindur sought refuge in places like Hveravellir, using the hot springs to cook food and survive in the harsh environment. I imagined what it must have been like for them, living off the land, hiding from the authorities, and finding solace in the solitude of the highlands. It was a romantic notion, but also a stark reminder of the challenges and hardships they must have faced.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back to Ásgarður, the setting sun casting long shadows across the landscape. The evening was spent enjoying another meal at Ásgarður, reflecting on the day’s adventures, and planning for tomorrow’s explorations. I am hoping to visit Panorama Ridge and the area around Ásgarður, and maybe even enjoy a drink at the bar in the evening. The weather forecast predicts light snow, so I need to make sure that I have all the appropriate gear ready before I head out in the morning. Despite forgetting my power bank and sunscreen, I’m making do with what I have, embracing the spirit of resourcefulness that comes with solo travel. Jan would have fussed over me forgetting those items, but I find a certain liberation in figuring things out on my own.

Before drifting off to sleep in my tent, I took some time to jot down my thoughts and observations in my notebook. Writing has always been a way for me to process my experiences, to make sense of the world around me. As I wrote, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to explore this incredible landscape, to connect with nature, and to discover new things about myself. This solo journey is proving to be exactly what I needed, a chance to recharge, reflect, and find inspiration in the raw beauty of the Icelandic highlands.

I am so looking forward to what tomorrow will bring!