Solo Adventure in Kerlingarfjöll: Embracing Iceland's Geothermal Wonders

Whispers of the Highlands

The Icelandic highlands have a way of seeping into your soul, whispering tales of fire and ice. Today was a day of exploration and relaxation, a perfect blend of activity and serenity amidst the stunning landscapes of Kerlingarfjöll. It reminded me of childhood summers spent exploring the bogs near Westport, though the scale and drama here are on a different level altogether.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður. Fuelled up, I set out to explore Kerlingardalur. The initial plan was to conquer one of the more challenging hikes, perhaps towards Snækollur, but the weather had other ideas. A thick fog rolled in, obscuring the panoramic views I was so eager to witness. So, I opted for a more leisurely stroll through Kerlingardalur, a valley carved by glaciers and adorned with steaming vents and colourful rhyolite mountains. The mist added an ethereal quality to the landscape, transforming it into a scene from an Irish folktale. I felt like I could stumble upon a hidden fairy ring at any moment.


Discover the mesmerizing beauty of Kerlingardalur, Iceland's enchanting ravine filled with geothermal wonders and breathtaking landscapes.

The hiking trails around Kerlingarfjöll are numerous and varied, catering to all skill levels. I learned that some determined hikers can even take in Hverahnjúkur's panoramic views and Snót's sublime beauty. For me, however, the gentle path through Kerlingardalur was perfect for the day. The paths are well-marked, and even with the fog, it was easy enough to navigate. The silence, broken only by the occasional bird call and the bubbling of geothermal springs, was deeply soothing. I made sure I had my hiking boots, as the paths can get slippery, especially near the geothermal areas.

The land owns you more than you will ever own it.

After a good few hours of hiking, I returned to Ásgarður for lunch. The Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll is a welcome sight after a morning in the elements. The food was simple but satisfying, and the warmth of the dining area was a balm to my slightly chilled bones. I chatted with a few other travellers, swapping stories of our Icelandic adventures. It’s funny how quickly you can bond with strangers when you're united by a shared appreciation for such a unique and awe-inspiring place.

With the afternoon still ahead of me, I decided to embrace a bit of relaxation. The drive to Hrunalaug Hot Spring was scenic, though the F-roads require a bit of careful navigation. It's definitely a drive for a 4x4, and I was grateful for the advice I'd received to rent one. The landscape shifted from rugged mountains to rolling green fields dotted with sheep – a classic Icelandic vista.


Experience the warmth of nature at Hrunalaug Hot Spring, a serene retreat in Iceland's stunning landscapes, perfect for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Hrunalaug itself is a small, man-made hot spring, a cluster of pools nestled in a grassy field. It felt a world away from the dramatic geothermal landscapes of Kerlingarfjöll, but it possessed its own quiet charm. The history of the place is palpable, with the oldest pool dating back to the 1890s. I paid the entrance fee and found a spot to change in the small wooden shelter. The air was crisp, but the water was wonderfully warm, hovering around 38°C (100°F).

Soaking in the hot spring was pure bliss. The water was soothing, easing the aches from my morning hike. I closed my eyes, listening to the gentle sounds of the Icelandic countryside. It was a moment of perfect peace, a chance to simply be present in the moment. I thought of Jan back in Warsaw, probably grading history papers, and sent him a mental postcard filled with the sights and sounds of Iceland. He would have loved this.

As the evening approached, I reluctantly left the warm embrace of Hrunalaug and drove back to Kerlingarfjöll. I stopped by the Highland Base bar for a well-deserved drink. The bar was cosy and welcoming, and I enjoyed a local beer while reflecting on the day's adventures. The Highland Base is more than just a place to stay; it’s a hub for travellers, a place to share stories and experiences. I chatted with a few fellow adventurers, swapping tips and recommendations for the rest of my trip. There was talk about the Akureyri Art Summer events taking place in the north of Iceland, and the upcoming Viking Festival. Maybe Jan and I will visit them together next year. Aoife would love the music events, I am sure.

Back at my tent, I felt a deep sense of contentment. The wind howled outside, but I was snug in my sleeping bag, warmed by the memories of the day. I made a mental note to double-check my gear tomorrow. I still haven't found my power bank, and I really should have brought sunscreen. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Hveravellir and the Stúfur crater. The weather forecast predicts partly cloudy skies, so hopefully, I'll get to see those panoramic views I missed today.

Before drifting off to sleep, I jotted down a few notes in my notebook, capturing the essence of the day. As I wrote, I thought about the stories connected to the region. It is said that Kerlingarfjöll is named after a troll woman who was turned into stone. Standing by Kerling mountain, one can almost imagine the folk tales coming to life. I am so glad I came here, even if it is just for a few days. It is a place where the veil between the physical and the mystical seems thin, where the land speaks to you in its own unique language.

Iceland, with its raw beauty and untamed spirit, continues to captivate me. It's a place that demands respect, a place that challenges you to step outside your comfort zone, and a place that rewards you with experiences that will stay with you long after you've left. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamed of geothermal springs and highland streams, of fairy rings and troll women, of the magic that lies hidden in the heart of Iceland.

Tomorrow, Hveravellir awaits.