Family Adventure in Orvieto, Italy

Sacred Woods and Volcanic Waters

Today marked another incredible chapter in our Italian adventure. Leaving Orvieto for the day, we ventured into the surrounding countryside, eager to explore both the bizarre and the beautiful. It was a day of contrasts, from the grotesque sculptures of Sacro Bosco to the calming shores of Lake Bolsena. Kenji was particularly excited, and Eleanor and I were just as thrilled to experience these unique destinations together.

After a delightful breakfast at Ristorante Al Corsica Orvieto, where I enjoyed some homemade pasta, we set off towards Bomarzo and the infamous Sacro Bosco, also known as the Park of the Monsters. The drive itself was scenic, winding through rolling hills dotted with vineyards and olive groves. It reminded me of the Japanese countryside, though with a distinctly Italian flair.


Discover the surreal beauty of Sacro Bosco, an artistic park filled with whimsical sculptures and lush landscapes, perfect for nature and art lovers alike.

Sacro Bosco was unlike anything I had ever seen. As we entered, the towering sculptures loomed before us, each one more fantastical than the last. Kenji's eyes widened in amazement as he ran between the monstrous figures, a mix of excitement and slight apprehension on his face. I found myself equally captivated by the sheer strangeness of it all.

The park was commissioned in the 16th century by Pier Francesco Orsini, also known as Vicino. Some historians believe that he created this garden as a way to cope with his grief after the passing of his wife, filling it with mysterious sculptures that reflected his own emotions. It was a place where classical composure gave way to the bizarre, a true testament to Mannerist art. Unlike the formal Renaissance gardens of the era, this mystical mannerist garden follows meandering paths rather than rigid geometries.

We wandered through the garden, discovering hidden pathways and grotesque figures at every turn. There was a giant turtle, a Pegasus fountain, a leaning house, a dragon, a mermaid, and a war elephant. The sculptures were carved directly into the natural landscape, making them feel like they had emerged from the earth itself. The most iconic sculpture was the hell mouth, framed with an inscription that paraphrases Dante.

To be wandering around, lost in the Sacro Bosco, to be surprised coming around a corner, is very much the point that the patron intended, I think.

After spending a few hours exploring the Sacro Bosco, we drove to Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe. The contrast between the park and the lake was striking. Where the Sacro Bosco was full of chaotic energy, Lake Bolsena offered a sense of tranquility and calm.


Discover the pristine beauty of Lake Bolsena, a serene volcanic lake in Italy's Province of Viterbo, perfect for relaxation, exploration, and cultural experiences.

We had lunch at Bistrò Miranda Orvieto, a bar known for its Italian dishes. I tried the salmon, and Eleanor enjoyed the duck. Kenji, of course, opted for a simple pasta dish, which he devoured in minutes.


Experience the best of Italian cuisine and live jazz at Bistrò Miranda in Orvieto – where every meal is a celebration.

After lunch, we strolled along the shores of Lake Bolsena. The water was crystal clear, and the surrounding hills were lush and green. It was a perfect summer afternoon, and we savored the moment, enjoying the gentle breeze and the warmth of the sun. Kenji paddled in the shallows, collecting pebbles and shells. I took some photos, trying to capture the beauty of the landscape. Eleanor simply sat on a bench, watching us with a contented smile.

Lake Bolsena is not only beautiful but also rich in history. The area has been inhabited since Etruscan times, and the lake itself was formed by volcanic activity. Today, it is a popular destination for swimming, boating, and fishing. The lake's calm waters and reliable winds make it a popular spot for sailing, windsurfing, and water skiing. It is also considered one of Italy's best spots for fishing.

As the day drew to a close, we drove back to Orvieto, tired but happy. We had dinner at FE3.0 (FEBO), a bar famous for its hamburgers, where I enjoyed a craft beer. Kenji was asleep before his burger arrived, a testament to the day's adventures.


Discover authentic Italian cuisine at FE3.0 (FEBO) in Orvieto – where tradition meets innovation in every bite.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Chianciano Terme and Cascate del Mulino-Hot Spring. I'm particularly looking forward to experiencing the natural hot springs, and I think Kenji will enjoy the change of scenery. It's hard to believe that our trip is coming to an end, but I'm determined to make the most of every moment.

Today was a reminder of the importance of embracing the unexpected. From the bizarre sculptures of Sacro Bosco to the serene waters of Lake Bolsena, each experience offered a unique perspective and a deeper appreciation for the beauty and diversity of Italy. It’s these moments that make travel so rewarding, and I’m grateful to share them with my family. I am also grateful that there was no need to use my portable charger or the sunscreen, since the weather was perfect.

Before heading back to Palazzo Piccolomini, we stopped by TOO Italy, where Eleanor bought a small ceramic trinket as a memento of our trip. It’s these little things that often hold the most memories, and I know that every time we look at it, we’ll be transported back to this magical time in Orvieto. I am a bit sad that I forgot Kenji's favorite toy at our accommodation, but I am sure he will be fine without it.


Discover the charm of Orvieto at Palazzo Piccolomini, a 4-star hotel offering comfort, local cuisine, and central access to historic landmarks.

As I reflect on our day, I am reminded of a quote by the great Japanese filmmaker, Akira Kurosawa:

In a mad world, only the mad are sane.

Perhaps that's why Sacro Bosco resonated with me so much. In a world that often demands order and rationality, it was a refreshing reminder that there is beauty in the bizarre and that sometimes, it's okay to embrace the madness.

The Orvieto Festival of Strings is ongoing, but we didn't have a chance to attend any of the concerts today. Maybe we will be able to attend one tomorrow.

It's time for bed now, but I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventures. Ciao for now!