Family Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Spiritual Echoes in Shingu

Today was a day of both physical challenge and profound spiritual discovery. As our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage nears its end, I felt a deeper connection to the ancient traditions and natural beauty of this region. The day was filled with exploration, reflection, and the simple joys of sharing these moments with my family.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe. The traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for the day ahead. It was a simple meal, but the quality of the ingredients and the care in its preparation were evident. Kenji especially enjoyed the rice, and Eleanor appreciated the miso soup. It's funny how such simple things can bring so much joy when you're traveling.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

Fuelled and ready, we set off to our first destination: Kamikura Shrine. The walk to the shrine was an experience in itself, winding through charming streets and offering glimpses of local life. The weather was kind, with a gentle breeze that kept the humidity at bay. As we approached the base of Mount Gongen, where Kamikura Shrine is located, I knew we were in for a climb.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

The steps leading up to Kamikura Shrine are steep – 538 of them, to be exact. It felt like a true test of our physical and spiritual endurance. Kenji, surprisingly, was full of energy and practically skipped up the steps, occasionally stopping to point out interesting plants or insects. Eleanor and I took a more measured approach, pausing frequently to catch our breath and admire the view. The higher we climbed, the more expansive the panorama became, stretching out over Shingu and the Kumano-nada Sea.

The climb may be challenging, but the reward is a sense of accomplishment and a deeper connection to the sacred landscape.

Reaching the top, we were greeted by the awe-inspiring sight of Gotobiki-iwa, a massive rock said to be where the Kumano deities first descended to earth. The sheer size and presence of the rock were humbling. I could feel the weight of history and the power of nature in this sacred place. We took some time to explore the shrine, offering a prayer for continued safe travels and good health for our family.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, we made our way to Fudarakusan-ji, a temple with a unique and somewhat unsettling history. This temple is known for the Fudaraku Tokai ritual, where monks would set out to sea in small boats, essentially sealed in coffins, in a quest to reach the Buddhist paradise of Fudaraku. The practice, which continued until the late 19th century, was a form of self-sacrifice and a testament to the monks' unwavering faith.


Experience serenity and spirituality at Fudarakusan-ji Temple, a hidden gem in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for cultural exploration and reflection.

Visiting Fudarakusan-ji was a somber experience. The temple itself is small, but the replica of the boat used in the Fudaraku Tokai ritual was particularly striking. It was a stark reminder of the lengths to which people will go in pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. I tried to imagine the courage and conviction it would take to embark on such a journey, knowing that there was no return.

For lunch, we visited Tororoya, a local restaurant specializing in tororo, or grated yam. This was a culinary experience I was particularly looking forward to, as I had read about the health benefits of yam. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly. We ordered a variety of tororo dishes, including tororo rice, tororo soup, and tororo noodles. Kenji was initially hesitant, but he ended up enjoying the unique texture and flavor of the yam. Eleanor and I appreciated the healthy and nourishing qualities of the meal. It was a welcome change from some of the heavier dishes we had been eating on our journey.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

In the late afternoon, we decided to indulge in a bit of local culture at the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. While primarily known for its Italian cuisine, the guest house also offers a selection of locally produced wines. We sampled a few different varieties, enjoying the beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. The owners, Giovanni and Yutaka, were incredibly welcoming and shared stories about their passion for winemaking and their life in Japan. Kenji was delighted to see the goats and chickens kept on the property, making it a fun experience for the whole family. It was a relaxing and enjoyable way to wind down after a day of exploring.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

As evening approached, we headed to Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. This local spot came highly recommended, and it didn't disappoint. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and the menu featured a variety of traditional Japanese dishes. I opted for a seafood dish, while Eleanor chose a vegetarian option. Kenji, as always, went for the ramen. The food was delicious, and the portions were generous. It was the perfect way to end a day of pilgrimage and exploration.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the contrast between the physical challenges of the pilgrimage and the spiritual rewards. The climb to Kamikura Shrine was arduous, but the sense of accomplishment and the connection to the sacred landscape were well worth the effort. The visit to Fudarakusan-ji was sobering, but it offered a unique glimpse into the depths of human faith and devotion. And the simple pleasures of sharing a meal with my family, surrounded by the beauty of the Kumano Kodo, are moments I will treasure forever.

Tomorrow, on our tenth day, we plan to visit Kumano Kodo Park. I am looking forward to exploring more of the natural beauty of this region and continuing our journey of self-discovery. And perhaps, we'll find some time to pick up Kenji's favorite toy at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center. As our pilgrimage nears its end, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we have shared and the lessons we have learned. The Kumano Kodo has touched our hearts and souls in ways I could never have imagined.

As I write this, I am reminded of a quote by the Japanese philosopher Nishida Kitaro:

To know means to transcend to the sphere of intuition.

Indeed, this journey has been about more than just seeing new places; it has been about feeling, experiencing, and understanding the world in a deeper, more intuitive way. And I am grateful for every moment.

Until tomorrow,
Shota