Family Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Day 4: Reflections on the Nakahechi Route

Today was a day of deep reflection and connection as we continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. The ancient path offered not only physical challenges but also a chance to contemplate the spiritual significance of this sacred trail. With Eleanor, Kenji, and I all in good spirits, we embraced the day with a sense of adventure and reverence.

Our morning began with a delightful breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The cafe's cozy atmosphere and emphasis on natural, high-quality ingredients were the perfect start to our day. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Eleanor opted for the vegan option, which she said was incredibly flavorful. Kenji, of course, was happy with his toast and a side of fruit. The owner of Sansaro Cafe is known for her dedication to yoga, music, and the local Kumano region, and you could feel that passion infused into every aspect of the cafe. It was a truly authentic experience, and I made a mental note to try a yoga lesson if we ever find ourselves back this way. It's these kinds of hidden gems that make traveling so rewarding.

Fueled by our delicious breakfast, we set out on the trail. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hike; it's a journey through time. As we walked, I couldn't help but think about the countless pilgrims who have walked these paths before us, seeking enlightenment and spiritual solace. The towering cedar trees, the moss-covered stones, and the gentle sound of the wind created an atmosphere of profound tranquility. It's easy to see why this route has been revered for centuries.

Kenji, ever the curious explorer, was fascinated by the small details along the way. He collected colorful leaves, pointed out interesting insects, and asked endless questions about the history of the trail. Eleanor and I took turns answering his questions and sharing stories about Japanese folklore and mythology. It's moments like these that make traveling with family so special. I feel grateful that we're able to share these experiences with Kenji and instill in him a love for culture and adventure.

The journey, not the destination, is the true reward.

For lunch, we stopped at Kakinoate, a charming restaurant in Shingu known for its dedication to fresh, local ingredients. The restaurant's inviting atmosphere and warm hospitality made us feel right at home. We savored beautifully crafted sushi, savory ramen, and seasonal dishes, each plate a testament to the chef's skill and passion for food. I particularly enjoyed the signature dish featuring unique flavors inspired by traditional Japanese cooking methods. Eleanor appreciated the vegetarian options, and Kenji devoured his portion of ramen with gusto. It was the perfect midday recharge before continuing our trek.

After lunch, we spent some time at Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN, a local shop offering a variety of souvenirs and local crafts. I picked up a few small gifts for friends back home, while Eleanor found a beautiful hand-painted fan. Kenji, of course, was drawn to the colorful array of Japanese toys. It's important to support local businesses and artisans when traveling, and Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN was a great place to find unique and authentic mementos of our journey.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. After a day of hiking, we were all craving something hearty and satisfying. The steak house, with its Western-style cuisine, offered a welcome change of pace. I ordered the Kumano beef steak, which was cooked to perfection and incredibly flavorful. Eleanor enjoyed the grilled seafood, and Kenji happily munched on a hamburger. The friendly service and cozy atmosphere made it a memorable dining experience. It was interesting to learn that Hinoki Steak House has been around for over half a century, a testament to its enduring quality and appeal.

After dinner, as we walked back to our accommodation, I reflected on the day's experiences. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a scenic trail; it's a place of deep spiritual significance. I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of pilgrims and connect with the rich history and culture of Japan. Sharing this experience with my family made it even more meaningful.

One minor mishap today was realizing we'd forgotten Kenji's favorite toy back at our accommodation in Jokiin. He was a little upset, but quickly perked up when Eleanor promised we'd find a new, equally exciting toy at one of the shops tomorrow. It's these small moments that remind me that travel isn't always perfect, but it's always an adventure.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, we're excited to explore the Doro Kyo Gorge. I've heard that the gorge offers breathtaking views and a chance to experience the natural beauty of the region. We plan to have breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE, lunch at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, and dinner at Tororoya. I'm also hoping to check out Why Kumano, a local bar, for a taste of the nightlife. It will be interesting to experience a different side of Kumano Kodo, away from the tranquil trails and ancient shrines.

Before drifting off to sleep, I spent some time practicing Shodo (Japanese calligraphy), a hobby that helps me connect with my Japanese heritage. There's something incredibly calming about the act of carefully forming each character, and it's a great way to unwind after a long day of hiking. As I lay in bed, I felt a deep sense of peace and contentment. The Kumano Kodo is truly a special place, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to share this journey with my family.

The air here is so pure, and the quiet is a balm for the soul. I'm already anticipating the adventures that tomorrow will bring. Until then, oyasumi nasai (good night) from the heart of Kumano Kodo.

Thinking about the trip so far, I am reminded of a quote I once heard from a fellow traveler: “The best journeys answer questions that in the beginning, you didn't even think to ask.” This pilgrimage is certainly doing that for me.