Family Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Day 1: Settling into the Sacred Path

After what felt like an eternity of travel, we finally arrived at the gateway to the Kumano Kodo. The journey from Bristol to Osaka, and then onward to Koya, had been long, but the anticipation of this pilgrimage kept our spirits high. Today was about settling in, gathering information, and preparing ourselves for the days of walking ahead.

The air here is different, cleaner somehow, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. It's a world away from the digital landscapes I navigate daily as a software developer back in Bristol. I felt a sense of calm wash over me, a feeling I hoped would stay with us throughout this journey. I must admit, my knees aren't what they used to be, so I hope that I will be able to manage the walk.

Our first stop was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It was crucial to get our bearings and understand the trails, especially with Kenji in tow. Eleanor, ever the organized one, had already downloaded maps, but nothing beats speaking to the local experts. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing us with detailed maps and insights into the various routes. They explained the significance of the pilgrimage, the history of the trails, and what to expect in terms of terrain and weather. Kenji, bless him, was more interested in the displays of local wildlife. He was fascinated by the pictures of the monkeys and deer that roam these mountains. I'm glad we brought some snacks for him; it kept him entertained while Eleanor and I absorbed all the essential information.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.

Each step on the Kumano Kodo is a step back in time, a journey into the heart of Japanese spirituality and natural beauty.

After the information center, our stomachs started to rumble, reminding us that we hadn't had a proper meal since breakfast on the train. We decided to try Sansaro Cafe for breakfast. It was a charming little spot, and the food was simple but delicious. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Eleanor enjoyed a western-style toast with coffee. Kenji, predictably, chose the pastries. Fueled up, we were ready to explore a bit more.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

For lunch, we decided on KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The cafe's name, meaning Kumano vegetables, intrigued us, and we were eager to taste the local produce. The cafe was cozy, with a rustic charm that made us feel instantly at home. Eleanor and I shared a vegetable curry, while Kenji devoured a plate of rice balls. The ingredients were incredibly fresh, and the flavors were vibrant. It was a delightful culinary experience and a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

Next on the list was a visit to the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. Road stations are a unique Japanese concept, offering a combination of local produce, souvenirs, and rest areas. This one was particularly charming, nestled amidst the mountains. We picked up some local crafts as souvenirs, and Kenji was thrilled to find a small toy section. It was a great place to stretch our legs and soak in the local atmosphere. I picked up some postcards to send to my colleagues back in Bristol. They'll be envious of our adventure, I'm sure.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As evening approached, we made our way to Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. This was a more traditional Japanese restaurant, and we were excited to try some local specialties. I opted for a hearty bowl of ramen, while Eleanor chose a tempura set. Kenji, surprisingly, enjoyed the ramen as well. The food was comforting and satisfying, and it was the perfect way to end our first day. The owner was very kind, and we talked about local customs.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

One thing I did forget to pack was sunscreen, so I had to buy some at the Road Station. Eleanor reminded me that I also forgot Kenji's favorite toy, so we had to make do with a new one from the shop. I was also hoping to find a lightweight backpack, but I didn't see any that I liked.

Back at our accommodation, Jokiin in Koya, we reflected on the day. It was a gentle introduction to the Kumano Kodo, a day of gathering information, savoring local flavors, and preparing ourselves for the spiritual journey ahead. Kenji was already fast asleep, clutching his new toy. Eleanor and I sat on the porch, listening to the sounds of the night. The air was cool and crisp, and the stars were bright. I felt a sense of gratitude for this opportunity to connect with nature, with history, and with each other. Tomorrow, we will visit Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara. I am looking forward to seeing these sacred places.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

As I prepare for sleep, I feel a sense of excitement for tomorrow's adventures. The Kumano Kodo is already weaving its magic, and I can't wait to see what the next day brings. I hope to be able to share my experiences with you all. Oyasumi nasai. Good night.