Family Adventures in Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Echoes of History and Coastal Breezes

Today, Friuli-Venezia Giulia continued to enchant us with its blend of history and natural beauty. We ventured into Gorizia, a town straddling the border with Slovenia, ready to explore its ancient castle and hike along the famed Rilke Trail. It was a day filled with breathtaking views, insightful history, and, of course, delightful Italian cuisine.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante La Pergola in Cormons. I always appreciate a good start to the day, and La Pergola did not disappoint. The aroma of freshly baked bread and strong Italian coffee filled the air, setting the perfect tone for our explorations. Elena, of course, was most excited about the pastries, while Maximilian and I enjoyed planning our day over strong espressos. It felt like being at home, with family. The restaurant's owners, Rosetta and her family, made us feel incredibly welcome, setting a warm and inviting tone for the day.

Fueled and ready, we set off for our first destination: Gorizia Castle. As we approached, the castle stood proudly atop a hill, dominating the city skyline. Its ancient stones seemed to whisper tales of centuries past. The construction of Gorizia Castle can be traced back to around 1146. For the first time, the title of Count of Gorizia appeared, given to Henry IV of Spanheim, which presumes the presence of a fortification at the site.


Discover the captivating beauty and rich history of Gorizia Castle, a stunning medieval fortress overlooking the picturesque landscapes of Gorizia, Italy.

Exploring the castle was like stepping back in time. Maximilian, with his keen interest in history, was in his element, reading every inscription and examining every artifact. Elena, ever the curious one, peppered us with questions about knights, battles, and royal families. The castle has been modified several times, with the addition of ramparts and towers and used for different functions, as an administrative centre, as barracks and as a prison.

The beauty of Friuli-Venezia Giulia lies not just in its landscapes, but in the way history and nature intertwine to create unforgettable experiences.

One of the most striking features of the castle was the panoramic view it offered. From the ramparts, we could see the entire city of Gorizia spread out below us, with the rolling hills of Friuli stretching into the distance. It was a sight that truly captured the strategic importance of this ancient fortress. The castle now houses the Museum of the Middle Ages of Gorizia, which added another layer of depth to our visit. The interiors are decorated with original furniture and furnishings, and reproductions of weapons and siege engines are shown. In the central courtyard it is still possible to see the remains of the old 11th-century tower.

After immersing ourselves in history, it was time for a change of pace. We drove towards the coast, our destination the Rilke Trail. This scenic path, named after the poet Rainer Maria Rilke, promised stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. As we parked the car, the salty air and the sound of crashing waves invigorated us.


Discover the Rilke Trail in Duino, Italy – a scenic hiking route offering breathtaking coastal views, lush nature, and an unforgettable outdoor experience.

The Rilke Trail stretches for approximately 2 kilometers between Sistiana and Duino, offering breathtaking vistas of the Gulf of Trieste. The trail itself is relatively easy, making it perfect for a family hike. Elena skipped ahead, eager to explore every nook and cranny. The Rilke Trail is almost 2 km one way, but it goes by very fast, since the trail is flat and the views are such a distraction.

As we walked, the turquoise waters of the Adriatic sparkled in the sunlight. The rugged coastline, dotted with wildflowers and pine trees, created a picturesque backdrop. We stopped frequently to take photos and simply soak in the beauty of our surroundings. The blend of historic architecture and stunning sea views made it a perfect spot to unwind and soak in the local scenery.

Along the trail, we encountered several World War I and World War II bunkers, a stark reminder of the region's tumultuous past. These historic remnants added a layer of intrigue to our hike, prompting discussions about the impact of conflict on the landscape and its people. It was a sobering yet educational experience for Elena, who is beginning to understand the complexities of history.

By lunchtime, we had worked up quite an appetite. We headed to Trattoria Al Teatro in Gorizia, a charming eatery known for its traditional Friulian cuisine. The trattoria exuded a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, with rustic décor and the aroma of homemade pasta filling the air. The quality of the coffee and desserts is good, the service is kind and the environment is welcoming. The prices are averagely high, as one expects in a central coffee shop of a city.


Savor authentic Italian flavors at Trattoria Al Teatro in San Daniele del Friuli - a culinary experience not to be missed!

We started with a selection of local cheeses and cured meats, followed by a hearty plate of *cjarsons*, a traditional Friulian pasta dish filled with herbs and ricotta. Elena, usually a picky eater, surprised us by devouring her portion with gusto. Maximilian and I savored every bite, appreciating the authentic flavors and the warm hospitality of the staff.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to indulge in a little retail therapy. We made our way to Centro Commerciale Terminal Nord, a large shopping center located in Udine. While I am not usually one for shopping on vacation, Elena had been asking for a new doll, and Maximilian needed to replace a broken phone charger. The structure is spread over 33,000 square meters and houses 30 shops including 7 large shops and 15 refreshment areas.


Discover Centro Commerciale Terminal Nord in Udine: A vibrant shopping mall with diverse stores and delightful dining options for every visitor.

The shopping center was bustling with activity, a stark contrast to the serene landscapes we had explored earlier in the day. Elena, of course, was thrilled to browse the toy store, while Maximilian quickly found a replacement charger. I took the opportunity to pick up a few souvenirs for friends back home, as well as a new Italian phrasebook. It’s always fun to learn new words and phrases when visiting a foreign country!

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to L'Argine a Vencò, a Michelin-starred restaurant located in a charming village near the Slovenian border. This perfectly restored old mill is home to a chef who creates original cuisine that demonstrates her connection with her region and showcases ingredients grown in the restaurant's own kitchen garden, especially the aromatic herbs that are a characteristic feature of many of the dishes served here.


Discover culinary artistry at L'Argine a Vencò, where local ingredients meet innovative cuisine in an unforgettable fine dining experience.

The restaurant's setting was idyllic, with a tranquil river flowing nearby and lush greenery all around. Chef Antonia Klugmann's innovative cuisine was a revelation, each dish a work of art that celebrated the region's culinary heritage. The service was impeccable, and the ambiance was both elegant and inviting. Antonia's creative cuisine is seasonal and local but a complete departure from traditional dishes. Her mantra is “senza confini“, which means “unbounded or limitless”. It is an ironic play on words in Italian because the restaurant is only a few kilometers from the border (confine in Italian) with Slovenia, the former Yugoslavia.

As we savored our final course, a delicate chocolate dessert infused with local herbs, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the ancient walls of Gorizia Castle to the breathtaking views of the Rilke Trail and the culinary delights of L'Argine a Vencò, it had been a day that truly captured the essence of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The restaurant is in the center of the building with glass walls on both sides. The back looks out toward the river, which used to power the 18th century mill, that is the original part of the structure.

Tomorrow, we plan to venture further into the region, exploring the Sanctuary of Monte Lussari and Udine Castle. I am particularly excited about visiting the Sanctuary, a mountaintop pilgrimage site that promises stunning views of the surrounding landscape. We also plan to stop by Liberty 1894 for a drink, a bar that I’ve heard has a great atmosphere.

As we drove back to our accommodation, Elena, tired but content, dozed off in the back seat. Maximilian and I exchanged a knowing glance, grateful for another day of shared adventures and unforgettable memories. These are the moments that make travel so rewarding, the connections we forge with each other and with the places we visit. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, you have truly captured our hearts.

I am also reminded of how much I miss my hometown of Cholula, Mexico. The vibrant colors, the bustling markets, and the warmth of the people are always in my heart, no matter where I travel. But each new place I explore adds another layer to my understanding of the world, enriching my perspective and deepening my appreciation for the diversity of human experience. And it is wonderful to share that with my family.

Until tomorrow!