Family Adventure in Assisi
Day 3: Finding Serenity on Mount Subasio: A Day of Reflection in Assisi's Natural Heart
Explore Assisi's spiritual side with a visit to Eremo delle Carceri & hike up Mount Subasio, enjoying Umbria's beauty. A day of peace & reflection.
In Pursuit of Peace: Discovering Assisi's Natural Sanctuaries
Today, Nang, Ananda and I ventured beyond the well-trodden paths of Assisi to discover a different kind of spiritual experience. We sought solace in the natural beauty surrounding this historic town, trading the bustle of the basilicas for the tranquility of the Eremo delle Carceri and the panoramic views from Mount Subasio. It was a day of reflection, connection, and a deeper understanding of St. Francis's love for the natural world.
Discover the serene beauty of Eremo delle Carceri, a spiritual sanctuary nestled in the hills of Assisi, rich in history and natural tranquility.
Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Ristorante Bar San Francesco. It's conveniently located, and I had read some good reviews. It was a good choice. We enjoyed some pastries and cappuccino, fuelling up for the day’s adventures. The staff was friendly, and the atmosphere was quite pleasant. It's always nice to start the day with a good meal and friendly faces. After breakfast, we set off towards our first destination: the Eremo delle Carceri.
The drive to Eremo was beautiful, a winding road cutting through the lush Umbrian countryside. As we ascended Mount Subasio, the air grew cooler, and the views became increasingly captivating. The Eremo delle Carceri, nestled on the mountain's slopes, is a sanctuary of peace and spirituality. The name 'Carceri,' meaning 'prisons,' refers to the isolated caves where hermits, including St. Francis, retreated for prayer and contemplation. This place was definitely special. It was easy to understand why St. Francis found solace here.
The hermitage itself is a collection of small chapels, caves, and simple living quarters built into the mountainside. The architecture is humble and blends seamlessly with the natural surroundings, embodying the Franciscan values of simplicity and humility. We explored the cave where St. Francis slept, his stone bed a stark reminder of his commitment to poverty. The silence here was profound, broken only by the chirping of birds and the rustling of leaves. It was a world away from the busy streets of Assisi, a place for true introspection.
The silence of Eremo delle Carceri speaks volumes, inviting a deeper connection with nature and spirit.
We learned that the Eremo was donated to St. Francis by Benedictine monks in 1215, solidifying its place as a significant site of Franciscan spirituality. The site has been expanded over the centuries, notably by St. Bernardino of Siena, who added a small church, convent, and refectory in the 15th century. The small rooms and chapels, some carved directly into the mountain, exuded a sense of devotion and history. Wandering through the ancient oak forest surrounding the hermitage, I felt a sense of timelessness. The dense woods and hidden caves provided a perfect backdrop for contemplation. I imagined St. Francis walking these same paths, seeking inspiration and connection with the divine. It was easy to see how this serene environment fostered his deep love for nature and his commitment to a life of prayer.
After spending a few hours at the Eremo, we drove further up Mount Subasio to experience its panoramic views. The mountain is a natural park offering hiking trails and breathtaking vistas of the Umbrian valley. Though I had forgotten to pack our umbrella, the clear skies were in our favour.
Experience the breathtaking views and rich biodiversity of Mount Subasio, a natural park and wildlife haven near Assisi, Italy.
We parked near the summit and took a leisurely hike along one of the trails. The path was well-maintained, and the views were simply stunning. From the top, we could see Assisi nestled in the valley below, its ancient buildings gleaming in the sunlight. The rolling hills of Umbria stretched out before us, a patchwork of green and gold.
Ananda, always the adventurous one, was particularly thrilled with the hike. He took countless photos, capturing the beauty of the landscape from every angle. Nang, ever the pragmatist, was more interested in identifying the various towns and landmarks in the distance. As for me, I simply enjoyed the feeling of being surrounded by nature, the fresh air filling my lungs, and the sun warming my face. It was a moment of pure contentment, a reminder of the simple joys in life.
Hiking in Umbria is accessible to both beginners and seasoned trekkers. There are gentle paths through farmland and more challenging mountain hikes. The landscape changes with the seasons, from vibrant spring blooms to the warm hues of autumn. I have read that the best seasons for hiking in Umbria are spring and autumn, with milder weather and beautiful scenery.
After our hike, we were ready for lunch. We drove back down the mountain and headed to Trattoria Pallotta Assisi. I had read reviews that mentioned the restaurant's delicious local cuisine and homely atmosphere, and it did not disappoint. We were lucky to get a table as it was quite busy, filled with locals and tourists alike. We started with the strangozzi with truffle, a regional specialty that was rich and flavorful. For our main courses, Nang chose the wild boar spezzatino, while Ananda and I opted for the cappellacci filled with meat and honey sauce. Each dish was prepared with care and showcased the fresh, local ingredients of Umbria. The staff were friendly and attentive, making us feel right at home.
Savor authentic Italian flavors at Trattoria Pallotta in Assisi—where every dish tells a story.
The trattoria itself was charming, with stone-lined walls and arched frescoed ceilings. It felt like stepping back in time, experiencing the authentic flavors of Umbrian cuisine in a rustic and inviting setting. It was the perfect place to relax and refuel after our morning of exploration.
In the late afternoon, we decided to indulge in a little something sweet at Le Delizie del Subasio. This bar was mentioned to have good pastries and local treats, and it was the perfect spot to end our day of exploring. We ordered some pastries and local beer. It was a delightful way to relax and reflect on the day's experiences.
Discover authentic Italian cuisine and local wines at Le Delizie del Subasio, a culinary gem in the heart of Assisi.
As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Hotel Porta Nuova. We decided to have dinner at Il Baccanale. It was a fitting end to a day of spiritual and natural exploration. The restaurant’s ambiance was warm and inviting, and the food was hearty and satisfying. We enjoyed some pasta dishes and local wine, savoring the flavors of Umbria one last time before heading back to our hotel.
Experience exquisite cuisine and artistic ambiance at Il Baccanale in Assisi – where culinary tradition meets creative expression.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of Assisi's historical sites, including the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva and the Roman Forum and Archaeological Museum. We'll also take some time to shop for souvenirs at Arte Assisi dal 1947, hoping to find a few treasures to remind us of our time here. For dinner, we're planning to try Benedikto - Osteria in Assisi.
Reflecting on today, I am grateful for the opportunity to experience the natural beauty and spiritual depth of Assisi. The Eremo delle Carceri and Mount Subasio offered a welcome escape from the crowds and a chance to connect with the essence of St. Francis's teachings. It was a day of peace, reflection, and a deeper appreciation for the simple joys of life.
“The journey of a lifetime starts with the turning of a page.”
Discover the historical charm of Assisi with your family; explore ancient landmarks and enjoy a pleasant stay at Hotel Porta Nuova.
Meet this Featured Explorer
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Occupation: Restaurateur (Thai Cuisine)
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Country: Canada
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Age: 53
Sawasdee krap! I'm Somchai Srisuwan, a Thai native now living in Montreal. My journey from the vibrant streets of Lampang to the charming neighborhoods of Montreal has instilled in me a deep appreciation for culture, cuisine, and connection. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences and insights, hoping to inspire you to explore the world with an open mind and a hungry heart. Whether you're a budget-conscious traveler, a passionate foodie, or simply someone seeking cultural immersion, I invite you to join me as I uncover the hidden gems and unforgettable moments that make travel so enriching.
- Culinary arts
- Photography
- History
- Cultural anthropology
- Sustainable living
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