Turbådene Himmelbjerget on Julsø

Lake steamers into the heart of Søhøjlandet

Step aboard Turbådene Himmelbjerget at the lakeside in Ry and you are immediately in the middle of Denmark’s Lake District. The boats slide out across Birksø and on to Julsø, following a route that has linked town and “mountain” since the 19th century. Wooden fittings, simple seating and the unhurried pace create a quietly nostalgic mood, more about savoring time than racing to a destination. Out on the water the landscape opens up: low wooded hills, reed-fringed banks and the occasional red-roofed house tucked between trees. Much of the shoreline is left to nature, so the boat often feels surprisingly remote despite being close to small towns and holiday cottages.

From quiet cruising to the climb up Himmelbjerget

The boats’ main purpose is to connect Ry with the foot of Himmelbjerget, the 147‑metre hill long celebrated as one of Denmark’s classic excursion destinations. After roughly fifty minutes of sailing, the pier by Hotel Julsø comes into view, backed by steep slopes and forest. From here, well-marked paths and steps lead up towards the plateau and, higher still, to the red-brick tower crowning the summit. Many visitors combine a relaxed outbound cruise with a more energetic walk uphill, pausing at viewpoints over the lakes they have just crossed. Others simply enjoy a stroll along the shore before re-boarding a later boat, turning the trip into an easy waterside outing rather than a full hike.

Nature, birdlife and changing seasons

Because the boats move slowly and hug the shoreline for stretches, they double as floating hides. Grey herons stand statue-still in the shallows, and in quieter moments you may spot kingfishers darting low over the water in flashes of turquoise. In summer the decks fill with soft conversation and the scent of sunscreen, while wooded slopes shimmer in layered greens. On cooler days the atmosphere is different: mist hangs over the surface, tree trunks stand out starkly, and the ride becomes a reflective interlude between busier stops on a trip through Jutland. The route is short enough for families with children, yet tranquil enough to feel like an escape for solo travelers and couples.

Echoes of historic excursions

The cruise is also part of a wider story. Since the 1860s, excursion boats have carried passengers across these lakes to constitutional gatherings and summer outings on Himmelbjerget. Today’s vessels continue that tradition, connecting visitors with a landscape that inspired painters, writers and early hikers. The simple ritual of casting off from Ry, skimming past forested peninsulas and arriving at the same historic hilltop area links modern travelers with generations of Danes before them.

Planning your time on board and ashore

Sailing times are concentrated in the warmer months, when demand is highest and the lakeside kiosks on Himmelbjerget are open. Many travelers allow half a day to include the round-trip cruise and an unhurried visit to the hill, tower and play area at the top. Seating is mostly on simple benches or chairs, so a light jacket and perhaps a cushion can add comfort if you plan to sit outside for the entire crossing. Whether you treat Turbådene Himmelbjerget as a scenic transfer to a famous viewpoint or as a gentle lake cruise in its own right, it offers one of the most atmospheric ways to enter the landscape of Søhøjlandet.