Modvind – Harborfront Hotel, Café and Pizzeria in Østerby

Harbor House with Island Soul

Modvind sits on Østerby Havnegade, facing the marina and fishing harbor where trawlers, pleasure boats and ferries set the daily rhythm. The building dates back to 1933, originally known as Østerby Hotel og Kro, and you can still feel that traditional inn character in the creaking floors, low-key décor and welcoming bar. Today, it serves as the social anchor of Østerby, equally part neighborhood living room and relaxed base for exploring Læsø’s windswept dunes and heather. Inside, light-filled rooms, wood details and simple maritime touches reflect the surrounding Kattegat. The atmosphere is informal and unpretentious: fishermen drop in for a beer, families gather for pizza, while overnight guests drift between the krostue, the terrace and their rooms upstairs.

Kitchen Led by Seafaring Chefs

The heart of Modvind is its kitchen, run by Thomas and Gitte, both trained chefs with backgrounds at sea and in Læsø’s harbor-side food scene. Their menu sits somewhere between modern bistro and island comfort food, built around honest, homemade dishes. The signature pizzas are deliberately few in number so each can be prepared from scratch, with dough, sauces and toppings made in-house. Toppings often highlight local ingredients: white fish from Østerby’s boats, regional vegetables, and of course Læsø’s famous sea salt. Beyond pizza, the menu shifts with ideas and seasons – fish and chips with chunky fries and a bright pea mash, hearty beef sandwiches in classic or Jutland-style, salads and wraps built from the same quality fillings, and occasional “yes-please” concepts that appear for a limited time.

Sleep in Classic Badehotel Style

On the first floor, six refurbished guest rooms bring a gentle Danish seaside-hotel mood. White walls, simple furnishings and freshly aired bedding create a calm retreat after a salty day by the water. Some rooms look towards the marina and out to the Kattegat, inviting you to wake to the sight of masts and shifting light on the sea. Facilities are straightforward rather than lavish: shared bathrooms off the corridor, a homely breakfast included, and the option of packed lunches for those heading out to hike, cycle or hunt for amber on the beaches. The scale feels intimate; you are never far from the café downstairs or the chatter drifting in from the harbor.

From Morning Coffee to Late-Night Bar

Across the ground floor, Modvind flows from café to restaurant to bar and terrace. At midday you might find people nursing coffee on the sunny side, while take-away pizza boxes pass through the door at a steady pace. Later, the krostue and bar invite longer evenings, with locals and visitors sharing stories over beer, wine or a post-dinner drink. In good weather, the outdoor seating becomes the star. Tables spill onto the harborfront and into a sheltered backyard space used at times for grill evenings and relaxed gatherings. The combination of sea breeze, gulls overhead and the clink of cutlery gives the place a distinct island buzz, especially on bright summer evenings.

Gateway to Østerby and Læsø’s East Coast

Staying or dining at Modvind places you at the center of Østerby life. Within easy walking distance lie the marina, the active fishing harbor, a supermarket and small specialty shops. Just west is Østerby Strand, one of Læsø’s finest swimming beaches, while to the east, sandy stretches and heathland draw hikers towards Jegens, Danzigmand and the long, wild curve of Bløden Hale. For many travelers, Modvind becomes both waypoint and meeting place: a spot to refuel between coastal walks, plan bike routes over breakfast, or simply watch the harbor wind up and wind down throughout the day. Whether you drop in for a single pizza or settle in for several nights, it offers an easy, lived-in slice of Læsø’s maritime character.