Store Økssø, Rold Skov

A still forest lake at the heart of Rold Skov

Store Økssø lies in the middle of Rold Skov, one of Denmark’s largest continuous forests, roughly between the small towns of Arden and Skørping. At around 33 hectares in size and up to about eight metres deep, it is the second-largest lake in the forest, yet its atmosphere is surprisingly intimate. The shore is closely wrapped by mixed woodland so that, as you approach, the water appears almost suddenly through gaps in the trees. The lake’s water is remarkably clear but tinted a deep tea-brown by dissolved humus from the surrounding bogs, giving it a characteristic, slightly mysterious tone. On calm days, the surface becomes a mirror, reflecting a ring of spruce, beech and pine and, in autumn, bright bands of gold and copper foliage. It feels enclosed and sheltered, with the sounds of the forest – wind in the canopy, birdsong, and the occasional splash from a fish – carrying easily across the water.

Shaped by bogs, restoration and quiet conservation

Store Økssø is framed not only by forest but by areas of raised bog and wetland that tell the story of this part of Himmerland. Sections of former raised bog have been restored, with water levels raised to encourage the return of sphagnum moss and other specialist plants. From the paths you can see stretches of open, wet ground and low vegetation that contrast with the dark tree line and add to the lake’s sense of wildness. Because the lake is nutrient-poor and alkaline, relatively few aquatic species thrive here, but those that do are well adapted to these conditions. The brown-tinged water, the soft, sometimes spongy ground near the shore, and the mix of open views and dense cover create an environment that feels both fragile and resilient. Basic waymarking and management are deliberately low-key, designed to protect the habitats while still allowing visitors to wander, watch and listen.

Walking, wheeling and lingering by the shore

A main attraction of Store Økssø is the simple pleasure of circling the lakeshore. A well-trodden path follows the water, weaving between the trees and opening up repeatedly to views across the lake. The terrain is mostly gentle, with only modest undulations, making it suitable for a wide range of walkers, including families with children. Notably, there is an accessible path down to and partly around the lake, as well as a dedicated fishing platform designed for wheelchair users on the southern side. Surfaces vary from compacted forest track to smoother sections near the most used access points, but the overall impression is of a route that invites a leisurely pace. There are informal places to pause, sit on a bench or a fallen trunk, and watch sunlight shift across the water.

Angling, birdlife and year-round nature experiences

Store Økssø is also known as a fishing lake, with stocks of perch, pike and eel. Angling here requires a valid national fishing licence, but there is otherwise open access to the water, making it a straightforward stop for visiting fishers. Casting a line from the shore or from the accessible fishing spot quickly becomes a meditative exercise, with long pauses between movements and only the quiet plop of the lure breaking the surface. Birdlife changes with the seasons: in spring and summer, you may hear warblers and see waterfowl patrolling the lake, while in winter the surrounding forest can feel stripped-back and silent, the lake sometimes edged with ice. Gravel and forest tracks nearby make the area popular with hikers and cyclists who use the lake as a natural pause point, whether for a picnic, a swim in warmer weather or simply a few minutes of stillness.

Light, seasons and the mood of the forest

Part of Store Økssø’s appeal lies in how strongly it reflects the seasons and the changing light. On bright days, the brown water takes on copper and amber highlights, contrasting with a pale sky. In mist or low cloud, the lake can feel almost enclosed, the far shore fading into grey while the forest muffles sound. Late summer evenings bring long, slow sunsets between the trees, while autumn mists drift over the bog. Even small shifts in weather noticeably change the lake’s character, from glassy calm to wind-rippled surface in minutes. Visitors tend to slow down here, drawn into observing details: ripples from a rising fish, patterns of lichens on trunks, or the way roots twist down towards the water. Whether you arrive during a busy family outing or at a quiet off-peak hour, Store Økssø works best when you give it time and let its calm, forested setting unfold around you.