Old St. Alban: A Memorial in Ruins

Old St. Alban, located in the heart of Cologne's Innenstadt, stands as a powerful testament to the city's history and the enduring impact of war. What was once a Romanesque church, first documented in the 12th century, is now a preserved ruin serving as a memorial to the fallen of World War I and World War II. The church's origins trace back centuries, with multiple reconstructions shaping its form throughout the Middle Ages and early modern period. However, the ravages of World War II left the structure in ruins. In 1959, the decision was made not to rebuild the church but instead to dedicate the site as a memorial, a place for contemplation and remembrance. Today, visitors can witness the skeletal remains of the church, a stark reminder of the destruction wrought by war. The ruins are not accessible to walk through, but they can be viewed from the street through the gate, offering a glimpse into the past and a moment for reflection. The site is particularly moving due to the presence of a copy of Käthe Kollwitz's sculpture, 'Mourning Parents'. The original sculpture was created in 1932 by Kollwitz in memory of her son Peter, who died in World War I. The replica at Old St. Alban serves as a universal symbol of grief and loss, resonating deeply with visitors. Adding another layer of significance to the site is the Bruder Konrad Chapel, located on the ground floor of the tower. Consecrated in 1964, the chapel features decorations by Peter Hecker and Will Thonet and houses a crescent moon Madonna from the 16th century. Access to the chapel is limited, with only occasional openings throughout the year, making a visit to the chapel a special experience. The area surrounding Old St. Alban is rich in history and culture, with numerous other landmarks and attractions within walking distance. The Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is just a short stroll away, as are other Romanesque churches that dot the city's landscape. The Alter Markt, Cologne's historic main square, is also nearby, offering a vibrant atmosphere with its traditional buildings and lively cafes. Visiting Old St. Alban provides a unique opportunity to connect with Cologne's past and to reflect on the human cost of war. The site's central location makes it easily accessible, and its poignant atmosphere leaves a lasting impression on all who visit. It serves as a reminder of the importance of peace and the need to remember the lessons of history. While in the area, consider exploring the nearby Wallraf-Richartz Museum, which houses a collection of medieval art. The Gürzenich, a historic festival hall, is also adjacent to the site, showcasing Cologne's rich cultural heritage. A visit to Old St. Alban can be combined with a broader exploration of Cologne's Old Town, offering a comprehensive experience of the city's history and culture. The preservation of Old St. Alban as a ruin and memorial is a testament to Cologne's commitment to remembering its past and honoring the victims of war. It stands as a symbol of resilience and a reminder of the enduring power of the human spirit.