Begum Samru's Haveli: A Glimpse into Delhi's Mercenary Queen

Begum Samru's Haveli, nestled in the heart of Chandni Chowk, stands as a reminder of a remarkable woman and a bygone era. Originally built in 1806, the haveli was the residence of Begum Samru, a woman of humble origins who became a powerful figure in 18th-century India. Born Farzana, she rose from a dancing girl to lead a mercenary army and eventually rule the principality of Sardhana. The haveli's architecture reflected a blend of European and Mughal styles, with Greek pillars, stucco work, and Palladian windows. It was once a grand four-story structure with sprawling terraces and lush gardens with fountains. The palace hosted extravagant parties attended by both Mughals and British dignitaries. Over time, the haveli was sold and repurposed, serving as a bank and later a commercial space. Today, Begum Samru's Haveli is a shadow of its former self, with shops and businesses occupying the space. However, visitors can still appreciate the original architectural elements, such as the Greek pillars at the entrance and the stucco work in the central hall. A visit to Begum Samru's Haveli requires imagination, as it's easy to miss the historical landmark amidst the commercial chaos of Chandni Chowk.