Cicol' E Ricott'

Discovering Cicol' E Ricott'

Tucked away on Via Maddaloni in the heart of Naples' Rione Sanità, Cicol' E Ricott' captures the essence of Neapolitan street food tradition. This unpretentious bistro doubles as a cheese shop, cold cut store, and deli, specializing in pizza fritta—a deep-fried dough pocket bursting with cicoli, the crunchy rendered pork fat beloved in local cuisine, and velvety ricotta cheese. The spot's name playfully nods to its signature cicoli e ricotta filling, a classic combo that has made it a neighborhood icon since its inception amid the area's ancient catacombs and baroque churches.

The Art of Pizza Fritta

Pizza fritta at Cicol' E Ricott' is prepared with time-honored techniques: soft, fermented dough is stretched thin, filled generously, sealed tightly, and plunged into hot oil until golden and pillowy. Beyond the namesake cicoli e ricotta, expect variations with scarola (escarole), provola cheese, or simple tomato and basil. These handheld delights trace their roots to post-war Naples, when resourceful home cooks fried pizza to save on oven fuel. Here, the fritta emerges piping hot, its exterior crisp yet yielding to a molten, savory core that demands immediate devouring.

Cheese and Charcuterie Excellence

As a dedicated cheese shop and deli, Cicol' E Ricott' sources premium local products like fior di latte mozzarella, aged pecorino, and artisanal salumi. Pair your fritta with a tasting board of Neapolitan cold cuts—salame Napoli, capocollo, or soppressata—washed down with an espresso or Peroni beer. The counter displays glisten with fresh mozzarella pulled in-house and wheels of ricotta still warm from the producer, inviting impromptu purchases for picnics in nearby Sanità gardens.

A Day in Rione Sanità

The bistro's location enhances its appeal, sitting in one of Naples' most authentic quarters. Wander pre- or post-meal to the Catacombe di San Gaudioso or Palazzo dello Spagnuolo, soaking in street art and laundry-draped alleys. Locals pack the tiny space during lunch rushes, creating a lively buzz that spills onto the sidewalk. Evenings wind down earlier, perfect for an aperitivo before heading to the historic center.

Practical Naples Flavor

Expect wallet-friendly prices—frittas hover around €5-8—with generous portions satisfying hearty appetites. The interior is snug, with a few stools and standing room, emphasizing takeaway. Quality shines through in every bite, earning consistent praise for freshness and flavor fidelity to Napoli's fried pizza heritage.