Krigsgravarna i Backen Travel Guide

In the summer of 1809, during the Russo-Swedish War known as the Finnish War, Russian forces invaded Västerbotten, reaching the shores near Backen in Umeå. The prästgård at Backen became a critical hub, transformed into a field hospital for wounded soldiers. Over 1,200 injured and ill Russian troops were housed in the kyrkstugor (church cottages), facing dire conditions that led to devastating mortality rates. The krigsgravarna, or war graves, emerged from this chaos, silently bearing witness to the invasion's toll on both sides.Local accounts from komminister Pehr Stenberg vividly capture the tension. On August 22, rumors spread of 2,000 Swedish troops landing nearby, sparking panic among the Russians. Skirmishes echoed from the harbor, with Swedish forces briefly recapturing the prästgård before retreating. Stenberg himself was briefly imprisoned in a stolpbod by Russian captors accusing locals of aiding the enemy, highlighting the personal perils amid the broader conflict.

Backen, a historic area along the Umeälven river, found itself at the epicenter of the Russian campaign. The prästgård, already strained as a hospital, saw plundering by foraging troops desperate for food. Stenberg documented Russians raiding family potato fields and homes, burying valuables to protect them. By day's end, the invaders withdrew, hampered by supply shortages, leaving behind damaged structures and the dead.The graves cluster near the church and river, a designated site for burials during the occupation. High death rates stemmed from untreated wounds, infections, and malnutrition in the makeshift facilities. Post-war inspections revealed extensive damage to the prästgård, with broken windows, shattered tile stoves, and stolen fixtures—reparations later claimed by the Swedish crown.

Pehr Stenberg's memoirs, preserved in Umeå University Library, provide invaluable firsthand insights into these events. His role as komminister from 1804 to 1824 positioned him to record the drama unfolding around Backens kyrka. The site ties into broader narratives of Umeå's history from 1714 to 1809, marked by repeated invasions and resilience.Today, the krigsgravarna remain a protected historical landmark, integrated into Röbäck's rich tapestry of sites like Röbäcks källa and ancient fornlämningar. Maintained by local heritage efforts, they invite contemplation on war's enduring scars without glorification.

Nestled along Backenvägen 172B, the graves overlook the gentle flow of Röbäcken stream, framed by open fields and woodland typical of Västerbotten. Seasonal changes enhance the site's mood: summer wildflowers soften the markers, while winter snow blankets them in quiet isolation. This natural frame underscores the contrast between peaceful present and violent past.The location fosters a meditative atmosphere, ideal for those seeking historical depth in Umeå's outskirts. Nearby stenhuggarängen and kvarnarna add layers to the area's industrial and natural heritage, making Backen a microcosm of regional evolution.