The Smithy Cafe Travel Guide

Nestled in the small Orkney island village of Balfour, The Smithy occupies a building that once echoed with the clang of hammer on anvil. Today, that same space hums with conversation, the clink of cups, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and home-style cooking. Run by the Shapinsay Development Trust, this cafe and restaurant is a true community project, reflecting the island’s spirit of self-reliance and hospitality. The interior retains a rustic charm, with exposed stone and timber, while modern touches make it comfortable for both locals dropping in for a mid-morning tea and visitors exploring the island.

The menu focuses on straightforward, satisfying food made with local ingredients where possible. Expect classic cafe staples like soups, sandwiches, and baked goods, alongside more substantial pub-style meals in the evening. The emphasis is on quality and comfort rather than fine dining, making it an ideal place to refuel after a walk along the coast or a visit to nearby historic sites. Drinks range from tea and coffee to local ales and spirits, served in a relaxed, unpretentious setting that feels more like a village hall than a commercial eatery.

Beyond its role as a cafe and restaurant, The Smithy often doubles as a community bar in the evenings, especially on weekends, adding a convivial social dimension. It’s a place where islanders gather, news is exchanged, and visitors are welcomed into the rhythm of island life. The space sometimes hosts local art, crafts, and events, reinforcing its role as a cultural and social hub. This dual function means the atmosphere can shift from a quiet daytime cafe to a lively evening spot, depending on the day and time.

Opening hours are limited and vary by season, typically running for a few hours each day from mid-morning to mid-afternoon, with extended evening service on certain days. Because of its remote island location and community-run nature, it’s essential to check current opening times before planning a visit, as they can change based on staffing and demand. The cafe is small and intimate, with limited seating, so it’s best suited to a relaxed, unhurried stop rather than a large group meal without prior arrangement. There’s no formal reservation system, but the staff are usually happy to accommodate if space allows.

The Smithy’s charm lies in its authenticity. It’s not a tourist trap but a genuine part of Shapinsay’s daily life. The pace is slow, the service friendly, and the surroundings unpolished in the best possible way. Sitting here, you’re not just having a meal; you’re experiencing a slice of Orkney island culture, where community, history, and landscape are deeply intertwined. The nearby harbour, fields, and coastline provide a quiet, windswept backdrop that complements the cafe’s down-to-earth character.

Shapinsay is reached by a short ferry ride from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney, and The Smithy is a natural focal point once on the island. It’s well placed for combining with walks to nearby sites like the Balfour Castle gardens, the standing stones, or the island’s scenic coastal paths. Because of the limited opening hours, it’s wise to plan your island itinerary around the cafe’s schedule, perhaps timing a visit for lunch or an afternoon break. The Smithy is a place to slow down, enjoy simple food, and soak in the unique atmosphere of a small Orkney community.