Rediscovering Roots: A Family Journey to Harar

Whispers of the Walled City

Today in Harar was a sensory explosion, a dive into the heart of Ethiopian culture that left me breathless. From the aromatic spices in our breakfast to the hushed reverence of ancient mosques and the adrenaline rush of a close encounter with hyenas, Harar revealed layers of its soul. Today was a day where history, tradition, and a touch of the wild converged, creating memories that Lila, Hans-Peter, and I will treasure forever.


Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Tasty Cafe. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingled with the sweet scent of cardamom, a familiar comfort that grounded me in my birthplace. Lila, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by devouring a plate of *firfir*, a spicy stew made from shredded *injera* and berbere spice. Hans-Peter, true to his German roots, stuck to his usual strong coffee, but even he admitted the local honey was something special.


Discover Tasty Cafe in Harar: where local flavors meet international cuisine in a cozy setting perfect for every traveler.

Fuelled and ready to explore, we ventured into the heart of Harar's old city. The narrow, winding alleyways, a maze of vibrant colors and bustling activity, immediately captivated us. The air hummed with the sounds of artisans at work, children playing, and the melodic calls to prayer echoing from the city's numerous mosques. It felt like stepping back in time, a world away from the orderly streets of Munich.


Our first stop was the Aw Abdal Mosque. It stands as a serene testament to Harar's deep Islamic roots. The mosque is said to be linked to Amir Abadal, a ruler from the 13th century. The architecture was simple yet elegant, the whitewashed walls adorned with intricate carvings that spoke of centuries of devotion. Inside, the atmosphere was hushed and reverent, a space for quiet contemplation. I took a moment to reflect on my own spiritual journey, the threads of my Ethiopian heritage interwoven with my life in Germany.


Explore the Aw Abdal Mosque in Harar, Ethiopia, where spirituality meets stunning architecture in a vibrant cultural setting.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are those that lead us back to where we began, illuminating the path we've traveled and the stories we carry within us.

After soaking in the tranquility of the mosque, it was time for lunch. We headed to Desalegn Kitfo, a local favorite known for its authentic Ethiopian cuisine. The restaurant was bustling with activity, a mix of locals and tourists eager to sample the traditional fare. We ordered *kitfo*, of course, minced raw beef seasoned with spices and *ayibe*, a mild cheese. Lila, initially hesitant, cautiously took a bite and her eyes widened. It was a hit! Hans-Peter, always up for trying new things, declared it the best meal he'd had so far on our trip. It felt good to share a taste of my culture with my family, to see them embrace the flavors and traditions that are so deeply ingrained in my identity.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Desalegn Kitfo in Harar—where every bite tells a story.

As the sun began to dip below the horizon, casting long shadows across the city, we prepared for the highlight of our day: the hyena feeding. I'll admit, I was a little apprehensive. I had heard stories of the hyena men of Harar, their unique bond with these wild animals, but I wasn't sure what to expect. We met with one of the hyena men outside the city walls, a quiet, unassuming man with a deep respect for these misunderstood creatures. He explained the history of the tradition, how it began centuries ago as a way to protect the city from the hyenas, and how it has evolved into a symbiotic relationship. The hyenas help keep the city clean by eating refuse, and in return, they are provided with a nightly meal.


Experience the remarkable tradition of hyena feeding in Harar, Ethiopia, where wildlife and culture intertwine in a captivating evening spectacle.

As darkness fell, the hyenas began to emerge from the surrounding hills, their eyes gleaming in the moonlight. It was an eerie sight, but the hyena man seemed completely at ease. He called out to them by name, a series of guttural sounds that they seemed to understand. He then began to feed them pieces of meat, holding the morsels between his teeth and allowing the hyenas to snatch them away. It was a display of incredible trust and control, a testament to the unique relationship between man and animal.


Lila was mesmerized, her initial fear replaced by fascination. She peppered the hyena man with questions, eager to learn more about these creatures. Hans-Peter, ever the pragmatist, was impressed by the hyena man's knowledge and skill. As for me, I felt a sense of pride in this unique Harari tradition, a reminder of the resourcefulness and resilience of my people.


After the hyena feeding, we were ready for dinner. We decided to try Harar Brewery Restaurant. The restaurant was lively and inviting, filled with the sounds of laughter and conversation. We ordered a variety of local dishes, including *shiro wat*, a thick stew made from ground chickpeas, and *tibs*, sautéed meat with onions and peppers. The food was delicious, but the real highlight was the local Harar beer, a smooth, refreshing brew that perfectly complemented the spicy flavors of the meal.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine paired with locally brewed craft beers at Harar Brewery Restaurant - A culinary gem in Harar.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Desta Bar & Restaurant. The bar was buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the lively atmosphere and traditional Ethiopian music. I enjoyed a taste of tej, a honey wine, a taste from my youth, while Hans-Peter sampled a local beer. Lila, tired from our adventures, snuggled up beside me, content to soak in the sights and sounds of her mother's homeland. It was the perfect end to a perfect day, a reminder of the simple joys of family, culture, and connection.


Experience the vibrant nightlife of Harar at Desta Bar & Restaurant, where local flavors and a welcoming atmosphere await.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Sherif Private Museum and Asmadin Gate. I am excited to see what new experiences await us as we continue to explore the wonders of Harar. I am also excited to learn more about the local crafts at Zinnira Collection, as I am always looking for ways to support local artisans and bring a piece of Harar back home with me. As I drift off to sleep, I'm filled with gratitude for the opportunity to share this journey with my family, to reconnect with my roots, and to create memories that will last a lifetime. Harar, you have captured our hearts!